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Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 55
Trainee
Sorry to be a pain. But I'm interested in what norm said originally about reducing suction. Can this point be explain a little more thoroughly for me. Yes I am a novice so I'm trying to get my head around it as much as I can.

And also, the symptoms I'm describing are they caused by air leaks?

Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 988
Likes: 7
Qualified Senior
Hi Nolan1986,

I think what Norm is saying is that if you have an air leak or small gap where the carb mounts on to the block you will lose some of your vacuum that is required to lift the fuel from the fuel bowl and draw it into the inlet manifold. Engines don't suck it's the downward stroke of the piston which creates a vacuum drawing the fuel into the inlet manifold.

Having said all that it sounds like you are able to cold start the engine but not restart the engine when hot. You may have a compression issue, when cold things are not to bad but when hot the cylinder bore expands and you may be losing compression. You need only three things for an engine to run. Fuel, compression and spark.

Just something else to consider :-)

Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 8,063
Likes: 205
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
At the end of the day remember it is a 2 stroke and that is why they started putting 4 stroke motors on mowers

Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 55
Trainee
Originally Posted by NormK
At the end of the day remember it is a 2 stroke and that is why they started putting 4 stroke motors on mowers


Yeah no worries norm. I'll just throw it in the bin. Sorry for trying to learn.

Thanks Paul for the info.

Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 129
Likes: 2
Apprentice level 2
Nolan
2 stroke very good motor
if you can and have old points clean them ad put them and oringal coil back. this will ruel out ignition problem
some times ignition module break down with heat work good den stop working
air leak at carb make mixture lean suck more air motor run ruff engine speeding up not smooth, it sounds like ignition to me you done every thing good put cleaned points and matching coil back in to test
hope you fix it you done lot of good work good1

Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 387
Apprentice level 4
I agree with Freebird, wouldn't be the first coil I've heard off that breaks down with heat. I'd swap it for a trial or test it with a multimeter if you can. Have you pulled the plug for a look after it's been running? If you look up the net you should find a good spark plug colour chart that may shed some light on whats going on in there. Lastly, I've had all kinds of heartache before and fixed it with a new plug. At worst you have a spare plug for next time.


This
Is going straight to the pool room.
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 8,063
Likes: 205
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
Plenty of 2 strokes have been thrown over back fences,in rivers and down the tip because they can be so difficult to start, in particular if they are hot

Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 55
Trainee
Yeah I'll change the o rings on the manifold.

It is a new ignotion module and the points were no good. That's why I chucked them to start with. I might change the location of the module though. It might get too hot mounted where the points originally were under the fly wheel under the fly wheel.

I've checked the spark, it's a nice blue colour.

Last edited by nolan1986; 11/08/16 06:08 AM.
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,842
Likes: 14
Moderator
Originally Posted by nolan1986
It is a new ignition module and the points were no good. That's why I chucked them to start with. I might change the location of the module though. It might get too hot mounted where the points originally were under the fly wheel under the fly wheel.

Yep, o-rings are cheap, and doing that eliminates any present or potential trouble in that area. After all, that engine is at least 32 years old...

And yes, those solid state ignition modules don't like excessive heat - mount it on the outside of the cooling cowl, as Victa did, for that exact reason.


Cheers,
Gadge

"ODK Mods can explain it to you, but they can't understand it for you..."

"Crazy can be medicated, ignorance can be educated - but there is no cure for stupid..."
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 55
Trainee
yeah fair point. I thought I was doing a neat job mounting it under the plastic cap where the points were originally. I'll rivet it on the outside.

Hopefully replacing the O rings and moving the module can make it the one pull starter it should be.

Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 55
Trainee
ok so gave it a go tonight.

Tried to start it just to see. and it went first pull?

Waited for it to cool and then it wouldn't start. So sprayed the starter spray on the carry and it fired up straight away. Is that what you meant Norm? If I spray ON the carby and it starts it means there is an air leak BECAUSE the starter fluid has found its way into the engine?

ANyway, changed the O rings on the manifold. And while doing that noticed that the wires connecting to the coil were loose and covered in Poo. So cleacdned them and clamped then on a bit tighter and sprayed them with some electric connection spray stuff.

Put it all back together and second pull start. Let it run for 10 mins. turned it off and again second pull start!! Success! At least for now. See how it goes on the weekend.

Also, Gadge and freebird, I tried to remove the flywheel and it wasn't moving. So for now the ignition module is going to stay in it's position until I have another go at removing the flywheel.

Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 8,063
Likes: 205
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
Well done Nolan, spraying on the outside was not what I meant, but hey heck if that works then so be it. As you guessed it had an air leak somewhere. Be nice for you to get that module out from inside the flywheel,before you start mowing the lawn. I run a 1/4" whit tap through the 2 holes and use my puller to pop it off, nice and easy. Where in Melb are you, happy to help if you are not too far away.

Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 55
Trainee
Well then I'm still trying to work out why you mean!! Ha!

I PM you my suburb Norm.

I'm interested in this puller set up. And I don't know what "whit tap" is. I'm not totally "au fait" with all the engineering terms and tools.

Some pics would be really appreciated.

Also I'll remember to take some pics of what my Victa looks like now. You can all have a laugh at my paint job!!

Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 8,063
Likes: 205
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
Hi Nolan, I hope you can see from the pics as to how the puller works

Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 55
Trainee
Yeah I had a look on the internet anojt the pullers.

I can't see from the pic but there is locking nuts under neith the plate on the 3 smaller studs and then you just crew the middle bolt down with a spanner until it pops off?

Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 8,063
Likes: 205
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
They are not the bolts I use, couldn't find one of them, these are just so you can get the idea, many ways to skin a cat and whatever works best in every situation

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