OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Walk Behind Lawn Mower Frames Victa Lawn Mower Frames Victa Commando N35 Power Torque Series 75

I would appreciate any help that would make the unit operate normally. Problem: When pulling the starter rope it does not pull out as normal. It comes ot a short distance and with continued strain it gives a bit and does so again till it unwinds completely. It would seem that there is a build up of compression in the unit either in the up or down stroke. It does not fire. Checked the sparkplug by earthing it to the engine and removing the cutout wire from the carby. There is a spark but to what intensity I do not know. I fitted a new kit in the decompressor but it did not improve. When either the sparkplug or decompressor is removed the starter rope unwinds normally. The exhaust port is clear and with the muffler removed there was no improvement. Fuel is fresh and the LN Carby has been cleaned. Initially, the starter rope broke and I gave the unit in to the shop for a new rope to be installed. In my ignorance as the sump was lying open I poured two spoons of engine oil into the sump and when I first experienced the lockup I turned the unit on to its side and drained it out and wiped it clean.I am thinking of washing it out with kerosene. As there were some holes in the casing behind the carby and up the rise and also some at the side, I fashioned two steel pieces to the contour and brazed it on to cover the holes. This was all done without removing the engine so I insulated the intake,wires and ign module with ceramic fibre (1200'C) All though nothing got burnt by the oxy flame I still feel that the prolonged heat in the area may have affected the ignition module even though I dis see the spark. A multimeter indicates a resistance and continuity. Not being satisfied I thought it best to install a new module. SO, I tried to get the base plate of but lacking equipment I used a socket spanner and hammered on the end of the extension - No luck. Drilled holes on the side of the nut and usec a punch to shift it without result. So out came the oxy to heat the nut and this time success. I still have to work out how to remove the boss and the rest of it so that I can get to the flywheel to remove it. There is one possibility and I cannot see what relationship it would have on the compression, dislodgement of the key in the flywheel. I am considering stripping the motor down but at the end of the day If the problem is still there then what have I achieved. HELP ! HELP ! HELP !

joripokree,

Does the rope pull back on you when you try to start the motor.

If it does then you would have a loose blade plate.

No, the rope did not pull back when trying to start. The rope seems to come out and stop with each up and down stroke until it is fully unwound.

As the blades were slack due to the owner not tightening it correctly I removed them and as I had to hold the plate I did not notice any looseness in the blade mounting. As a result the bolt holes have been damaged and I will have to repair them.

As I was initially intending to replace the ignition module I removed the blade plate and had a difficult time removing the securing nut resulting in destroying it to get it off. So I can confidently say that the plate was not loose

Regards

Joripokree

PS: forgot to mention that even though the base plate has been removed there is no change in the starting action as mentioned

joripokree,

The blade plate is the flywheel which is required for timing.

Bruce

The Bladeplate is the Bladeholder and is not the flywheel.

The flywheel is situated in the crankcase housing and has a magneto for timing. The e-coil is also situated here. Below this is a baffle plate and a boss. then the whole unit is mounted on to the base. Then there is a spacer plate, the bladeplate/bladeholder and then it is all held together with a locknut.

I did not say that I had removed the flywheel.

The problem being experienced is possibly due to compression ?? WHY ??
There was no difference before or after the bladeholder was removed. The rope comes out in stages even though I have installed a new kit in the decompressor (as explained in my first post)

Regards

Joripokree

joripokree,

My error the blade plate is a counter weight that will affect the timing if it is loose. If you have the blade plate center washer on incorrectly it will be loose even if the nut is tight. On the washer is printed nut side and if it is not facing the nut then it is on incorrectly.

On your blade plate where the washer sits is the area shiny?

We have to go through a process of elimination to make sure everything is correct with the machine.

Bruce,

Will check and let you know tomorrow.

Q. What is the best approach to removing the boss that sits behind the blade holder and also to remove the flywheel for inspection of the keyway. That is, without buying special pullers

Thanks

joripokree

joripokree,

The flywheel on the power torque does not have a key way just a large flat section.

To remove the blade boss on the flywheel use two hammers one large and one smaller. Put the larger one against the side of the boss and hit the opposite side. Just keep going around till it is re leaved otherwise if you have an anvil just place one side on it and do the same thing by turning the boss around.

To remove the flywheel you need to be care full as the alloy could crack (just tap around the center rise and use a couple of screwdrivers to move it off).

Let us know how you go but I am sure that your problem is the blade carrier because of your detailed explanation shows that you have the blade holder washer on the wrong side.

Anyway let us know how you go.

BRUCE:

Thanks for the advice, I will start following up on your suggestions and will come back and let you know how it all works out one way or the other.

The wire from the e-coil to the spark plug is a bit short( most probably due to abuse in the past). Is it possible to lengthen it and how may I do so. Currently the wire has to be slightly tensioned to get the lug on to the sparkplug end.

Thank You
Regards

Joripokree

joripokree,

What I have done in the past is use a bit of fuel line about 1" long and another piece of high tension wire.

1.Then remove the insulation on both pieces about 1/2" clean wire.

2.Put some WD40 on insulation and inside fuel line.

3.Slide fuel line over coil end of high tension lead.

4.Solder both pieces of high tension lead together.

5.Then slide fuel line over join.

This works quite well and does not look to much out of place.

Bruce:

Thanks for the advice. Yes it is the most practical approach. I was concerned regards the low voltage output and the possibility of resistance in a soldered joint in a HT lead, But you have done it and had success so I will do the same. Thank You very much.

I will be checking out the compresion problem tomorrow and will also inspect the flywheel to see if the Key has become dislodged due to the hammering when trying to get the nut of. Also will check out the blade holder and the spacer to see if there is any shine on the surfaces which would indicate looseness. I dont really think there would be any as it is as ex factory but the unit has had a lot of abuse and neglect. Can you imagine that two different blades were being used !!!!!!!!!! resulting in the mounting holes being damaged, which will incur some more welding which fortunately I can do.

One question - Is there any way of checking the ignition module and its output. I'm told it's 1.5Volts ????? I think its a bit more than that. I do have a multimeter. The reason I ask this question is I do not want to reassemble the unit to find the ign module faulty and then have to disassemble it, for as you know the poprivet would need to be drilled out which can only be done with the motor off the base plate. Do you think it would be a good idea to replace the piston rings whilst I have it dismantled ???

Regards

Joripokree

joripokree,

1. The flywheel does not have a key way but just one flat edge so unless it is loose it should not cause an issue.

2. Check the ring gap and if over 10thow replace them.

3. Do not weld the blade plate unless you can balance it as it will eventually flog out the bearings (just buy a second hand blade plate).

4. Make sure that you clean the surface where the module is to get a good earth because if you haven't you will not get a good spark. Note that if the spark is a yellow colour then replace the module as it should be blue.

We have more detailed information in the parts list and manuals area of the forum.

lol on ya bruce