OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Engines Questions On Briggs & Stratton Engines Briggs and Stratton charging circuit

I have a Dixon 424 ZTR with a 11hp briggs and want to swap it out with a 15.5hp OHV briggs. Should be easy but the wiring. I know the two wires on the 11hp one is 12v ac runs the headlights and the other is12v dc charges the battery.

What's with the wires on the 15.5hp OHV. Searched everywhere no luck.

Help please

How many wires on the 15.5. I know nothing about how the 11hp wiring works but the only alternators I have had anything to do with that had a/c headlight and d/c charging,this requires 2 wires for the a/c and 2 wires for the d/c. Maybe it has an a/c regulator for the headlight and a rec/reg for the d/c built inside it somewhere. Once you have the motor installed you could test the wires to see what voltage is coming out of the wires and go from there

The 11hp has two wires one with a diode to convert it to dc.

I have the complete wiring loom for the 15.5hp but just wanted to do a motor swap.

The dixon wiring loom already has the power set up for the blade engagement but will need some wiring done to get 12v to the fuel solenoid or just throw away the solenoid because they give problems. The headlights are also already wired up.

If i use the new wiring loom it will have power for the solenoid but no wiring for the headlights or the blade engagement.

The 15.5 wiring has a black wire going to a bolt in the centre of a black box. Another black wire connected to a yellow wire on the black box. There is also a red wire coming out of the black box. There is also another black wire coming out of the motor that joins an orange wire. All the black wires come from underneath the flywheel

You will need to get the motor running so you can take some readings with a mulitmeter to see what the wires are doing. The black wire to the center of the black box should be an earth. The red from the black box will go to the battery +. The black box should have 4 wires going to it, 2 from the alternator,one to the battery + and one to frame earth or battery -.Does the orange wire go to the black box? I think it should. Blade engagement,headlights,solonoid will all be run from the ignition switch. From the on position on the ignition switch then to the headlight switch/engagement switch, fuel solonoid runs with ignition on

What the engine numbers for the 15.5hp? Need to see what alternator and voltage regulator it was setup with. Also pictures of the current setup of the 15.5 wiring would be of help.

It would also be a good idea to fit a Carmtrol unit to the fuel pump so that if the ignition is left on the fuel pump will not continue to run and pump fuel everywhere. I got one of those the other day from a car wrecker for $5

Not knowing the year model of the ZTR 424, I just Google'd a wiring diagram and found this :-
http://www.dixon-ztr.com/ddoc/DIXO/DIXO1986_USen/DIXO1986_USen_424_.pdf
As AVB suggests, provision of the Engine numbers for the 15.5hp can help identify the alternator information and, I would also search the information based on the engine numbers for the original 11hp unit so you can directly compare.
Knowing what machine the 15.5hp came from would also assist in looking at the wiring schematics.
Sounds like it is not as easy as a ordinary ride-on motor swap. I just swapped out a 17.5hp B&S with a 16hp Vanguard and existing wiring from the alternator (only two wires) was directly compatible.

Bottom line is you only have to charge a battery and if the worst situation is you have to get a new rec/reg, single phase rec/regs are about $20 from India

Thanks for all the help .

Cox Lawn Boss
Briggs and Stratton Intek 15.5hp OHV
3E677 0123 B1 071011ZA

Dixon 424 ZTR
Briggs and Stratton IC 11hp 400cc
253707 0160 02 84061810

I have both complete machines and the Dixon deserves the bigger motor. The Lawn Boss will get sold as a rolling chassis.

I'm sure the 15.5hp is spitting out 12v ac and dc somewhere but can't find a wiring diagram for it. The motor is already off the Lawn Boss so can't test anything till i put it on the Dixon.

Busy260 thanks heaps for the wiring diagram for the Dixon it is spot on. Headlights only work when the motor is running it uses 12v ac and even when the ignition is switched off the pto uses power off the battery and if left on flattens the battery. They do have a little sticker saying Warning battery will discharge if clutch (PTO) is left on.

If i can figure out which wires are spitting out 12v it's going to be an easy swap. Will just throw the fuel solenoid or cut the plunger off so no power needed for that. They always cause problems anyway.

That is why you wire everything through the ignition switch, switch off all power is off, A/C D/C headlight, doesn't care where it gets power from

Dixon wired it that way. Shows it on the wiring diagram. Always thought it was a bit slack of them. Nearly have the 15.5hp mounted up so will be able to do some testing when i fire it up and find out which wires are spitting out 12v

Manufacturers don't always do things the best way, they are profit driven which sometimes leads to odd things being done. If you have any doubts about the ignition switch being able to carry the load, just use it to switch a relay and run everything off the relay

Cox Lawn Boss
Briggs and Stratton Intek 15.5hp OHV
3E677 0123 B1 071011ZA

Still searching for wiring diagram for this motor.

Briggs 31E677-0123-B1

It looks like someone had the tri-circuit alternator out to a 15 amp version but didn't change out the regulator. The tri circuit used the following voltage regulator.

You need to replace it with the normal regulator for the 15/20amp alternator setup. As right now the voltage out from the alternator is incorrectly wiring and I be surprised that it even worked correctly on the previous equipment. From there just wire the fuel solenoid to the on terminal of the ignition switch. For lighting either do the same for on all the time lighting or add a switch for switched lighting.

The regulator you need looks like this one where both of the two black wires from the alternator attaches to the two yellow wires and Red is your DC output for charging your battery and for running the lights and other systems. Note: The regulator case needs grounding for it to work.

Hopes this helps some.

AVB thanks the regulator i have is the top one. Black wire to the bolt in the middle. Black wire to the yellow. Red wire is 12v dc which i ran to the battery side of the solenoid. There is no 12v ac on the new model motors to run the headlights direct. I grabbed 12v from the ignition and now have lights with ignition on or running when i flick the light switch on.

The other black wire which was running next to the grey wire (12v for fuel solenoid) is for the kill switches.

Thanks Everyone

Bad news is it runs like it has a huge cam in it.

Pulled carby off and cleaned, float was in upside down and needle and seat wasn't even connected to it.

Still ran like it has a huge cam.

Inlet valve was loose and exhaust valve was tight. Adjusted them both.

Still runs like it has a lumpy cam.

I have never had a late model briggs but WHEN I STOP THE MOTOR SOMETHING KEEPS SPINNING 2 OR 3 REVOLUTIONS THEN STOPS. I CAN HEAR IT. IS THIS NORMAL OR AM I ON TO SOMETHING

Sorry false alarm, its just the electric clutch, normally have ear plugs in.

STILL RUNNING LIKE A HAIRY GOAT

Its a shame because it all bolted up really well and looks good.

Check the static governor adjustment since it sounds someone else has been working on it and we don't know what all have been done to it. Also make sure the carburetor is clean as plugged idle bleed passage can cause surging too.

One suggestion and it something I do on all this series of engines; just because i have experienced a lot this. That is to do a leak-down test on this engine as they are bad for the head gasket to blow between the cylinder and the push rod galley. This particular leak can heard if present better with the valve cover off as you normally hear blow by from the dip stick but it would louder at valve galley if the gasket is blown in this area. If this gasket is blown these 310000 series can use a lot of oil and not even smoke. I had one last year that was using nearly a quart of oil to an acre of mowing because of this gasket being blown.

Good morning rudes.
Glad you have made progress with the changeover. Not sure of the actual Cox Lawn Boss model you have, so here is the link for Cox Manuals from their website. The B&S 15.5hp motor was built 11/10/2007, based on code 071011, so I would be guessing that the Cox Model is either A11707L (Sales code CR9602U) or A11708F (Sales code CR9602U 32" cut or CR9603U 38" cut).
If this is correct, then the schematics you may have been looking for are on Page 60 of 82 :-
http://www.coxmowers.com.au/wp-cont...9G-A13710B-A14010K-A14110K-Lawn-Boss.pdf

Thanks heaps Bushy260 got to finish off the wiring thanks again.

Thanks heaps AVB its now purring like a kitten thank you so much.

Pulled carby off this morning and sprayed every hole and passage and ran fuse wire and compressed air through as well. One hole i thought was a blank because no matter what i tried air, fuse wire or spray nothing worked. After about an hour of mucking around all of a sudden the fuse wire went through what i thought was a blank drilled hole. Sprayed it and compressed air as well and the fuse wire ran straight through.

Carby back together and back on. Turned the key and it purrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrred.

Just cant believe something that small could make a motor surge and backfire and run so terrible.

Thanks everyone. Thank u

Good morning rudes.
I've been caught with those blanks turning out to be solid blockages, but glad you finally got it sorted.
This site is a great resource and I appreciate the help I have received from members in the short time I have been here.
Can't beat the benefit of providing as much detail of the equipment as possible. I find it's a crucial element and can be a big time-saver. I like to get photos of the Machine Model Label and Engine Identification Plate or any other label relative to the item being repaired, especially if it relates to the transmission.
Have a great day.
Cheers.