OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Engines Questions On Briggs & Stratton Engines Seized Blade Boss, which heating torch??

Hey guys,

I have a blade boss that won't come off. I've tried a 2 jaw puller.. and even that (and the metal bolt in the middle) is squishing .. this thing wont budge and I'm tempted to smack it with a hammer. Someone suggested heating the boss to expand it and break it free.

I'm looking to now buy a Propane Torch.. but.. I have no idea what I need, or how hot I need to get the part(s). What do you guys recommend in the way of portable torches (cheap priced).

I was looking at bunnings and supercheap auto and came across,

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/on...orch-Kit.aspx?pid=340617#Recommendations

http://www.bunnings.com.au/tradeflame-propane-handyman-full-flame-blow-torch-kit_p5910245

http://www.bunnings.com.au/tradeflame-propane-handyman-pinpoint-blow-torch-kit_p5910244

Dont really know the differences. Are there any that have refillable canisters ?

Thanks

you can get them that work from like a bbq gas bottle too but i didnt see them for years now , seems the really cheap ones look not too bad and you can get the gas cans at big w and the like 6 for $10 still in some places .
what sort of a boss though , rover ? . different ways of removing them sometimes , some hard most easy .

and dont get heat close to the seal , nice wet rags n stuff around it

Would they be able to get the steel/boss hot enough ? I had a look, they seem to be Butane.. not sure whats better/hotter...


It's off a VICTA Pace








Thanks for the tip

i said some easy ? not that one put the puller on , the most pressure it can handle , heat and a few hits it should POP off , sure to use the bolt and be careful !! dont hammer the thing too hard just decent firm taps and it should pop .
soak with crc or the like first for a while just to help it along , depends on what you need , the boss or engine ? if its the engine just cut a slot in it and crack it with a chisel '
just use the bolt in crank their easy to get hold of

if you want more heat use a map gas torch.

What Gizmo says....I use mine on every restore,and it saves heaps of time,on the all to common 60 year old Rotomo bolts.

Invaluable, for repairs, lead wiping, brazing,soldering....you get the picture:)

Propane torches won't generate enough localize heat as the rest of the engine will heat sink away too heat. Don't know about the MAP version as to if they are hotter but I do know that propane torches won't be unless boosted by oxygen. I have tried those homeowner style systems too many times and gave up and brought a regular Ox/Ace setup.

From the pictures it looks like a bearing separator setup would better at getting a good grip on the adapter. If it was in my shop I would install the separator ( may need a separate bolt in the crank to push against), tighten the center puller bolt with an impact until it just stops under tension, then apply heat with an ox/ace torch. Testing as I as heat by tightening the puller bolt a little until the adapter starts moving, that way you only apply enough to loosen the adapter.

Now this is just I would do here but it is what found that works reliably here but of we don't have Victas here.

Have you tried some penetrating oil like WD40? Be sure to leave it for a good couple of hours (upside down and right-way up). I think it is stuck due to some rust formation, as the PTO looks like it has quite a bit of pitting.

I would try tapping the blade boss sideways (just a little or you'll damage the keyway) to see if it budges.

Also, it is probably a good idea to drain the fuel tank and sump before heating the blade boss, if you do decide to go that route.

Thanks guys,

I've looked more at the MAPP now as you guys suggested, and a few others from various Google results, mentioning Propane not being as effective for heating.. I also looked into Oxy+Gas options, but the price is much too high for me, at least at this stage.
How effective do you think the MAPP would be on that boss? Or bolts/nuts etc.. of that size/thickness ?

Xhall: I've tried WD40, Penetrating oil (homemade with Acetone and ATF) aswell as soaking in Vinegar overnight (Vinegar seems decent enough for bolts and such). Still can't make it budge.

Only other option would be to cut it off and replace it. Those attachments though seem to cost around $30.. seem a bit much for a single part. I do have a spare boss here I recently salvaged.. not sure if it's the right fit though.

Thanks again, muchly appreciated

can you fit a socket over it and try to tap it on a bit more, to break the seal that is holding it on.

you might want to try putting the bearing puller on it and give the shaft a few love taps while its under torsion.

you can get yourself a cheap butane torch attachment for those camp stove gas bottles.

Widget,

You might be surprised how well a hot air gun would work here. You might have to keep the heat on it for 15 or 20 minutes as all that metal will soak up the heat. But you'll have far better control with that seal there. And only 50 bucks for a cheaply zit brand one at bunnings. Ideally you'd want the heat in the part your trying to remove and not in the shaft and so perhaps the fast heat of a flame thrower has some appeal in that regard but the heat control of the 'hair dryer' has some advantages too. To that end it is my first choice in situations like this.

Just a thought

Just a thought.