OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Engines Questions On Briggs & Stratton Engines 12,5 briggs

hi everyone, I have a 12.5 syncro balanced briggs which has broken the crank and the housing, I am wondering what a good replacement would be with out changing anything as in engine bolt pattern, exhaust etc, it is fitted to a rover ranger that is very clean and worth spending money on, thanks

Why not buy another Briggs of approximately the same type? Please post some pictures plus your model, type and code numbers (stamped on the cooling air cowl) here, and also post the same information in a new thread in the Wanted forum.

Those synchro-balanced Briggs engines frequently run their balancer bearings due to being operated with dirty oil, or no oil, and even before they actually break, there isn't much can be done for them anyway (aside from promising yourself that you'll keep them full of clean oil in future).

I will check it out and try and send some pics, I don't know if the intek series are the same, I repowered one I had here once with a Honda but had to drill new mounting holes, then their was belt size issues because the engine had to be moved forward to fit, it all worked well but a lot of work

I don't know for sure that the Intek mounting holes are in the same places as for the side valve engines, micka. I'll be a bit surprised if they are not, but I've been surprised many times before. In my opinion OHV Hondas are better engines than Inteks, but you have to consider availability and price as well as design quality. I do recommend that you stay away from Tecumsehs, regardless of price, for a number of reasons.

If you post the model and type numbers I can do search on the Power Portal is what they recommend as a replacement as there might be a direct replacement available.

The model is, 281707 type is 0151 01 code is 90062511, I'm not sure if the 01 is the end of the type or the start of the code

The important thing is the recommended substitute engine, which AVB has access to, I don't. However for light reading in the meantime, here is the Illustrated Parts List for your blown-up engine:
http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/Z6ntzHVJ1DajI.pdf

Here is the Operator's Manual:
http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/mssAIQ-K_ny7tH217FzoPu.pdf

That engine was manufactured on 25 June, 1990.

The separated 01 is called the Trim number, and is an offshoot of the second number (the Type). The first number is the Model, and the third number is the Code, which tells you the date of manufacture.

Briggs recommended replacement is the 219907-3026. Due overall dimensional differences you must make sure there is no inference to other equipment that this mounted on.

thanks every one, I will check it out and let you know where I go with it

I have an 11hp syncro balanced motor in the shed, stripped it down and am thinking of just rebuilding it up and using it

That sounds like the simplest and cheapest solution, micka. Most likely items like muffler and air cleaner will be interchangeable, if you need to use the original ones to fit on the ride-on mower.

hi grumpy, I will order the parts today, I didn't realize I had this motor until I started digging in the shed, I don't thing the little bit of hp loss will matter, but yes exhaust etc is all the same, Its been a long time since I posted pics but I will try and send some, its one I will eventually sell, just new belts, blades and reco motor, I will keep you posted, cheers

An "unknown" synchrobalanced Briggs may not be something you'd want to sell unless you either inspect the mechanism or know its history. At the very least, was it full of fairly clean oil when you got it? Once the crankshaft journals for the balance mechanism have some wear or damage, it isn't going to be a satisfactory engine, or a fixable one.

hi grumpy, could you please tell me the valve clearance for this, thanks

Intake 0.005-0.007", exhaust 0.009-0.011". That is for the 12.5 hp engine - you didn't give us the model, type and code for the 11 hp engine.

thank you

the one I'm doing is model 252707, type 0647-01 code 85082311

That has the same valve clearances, micka - 0.005-0.007" inlet, 0.009-0.011" exhaust.

all done thanks grumpy

hi grumpy the engine started first go yesterday but just wanted to rev flat out, I am thinking it might be the governor spring as it idles with it disconnected. it never came with a spring on it and I put one on off a 12.5 engine, it feels like the spring is far too strong, I'm thinking its too strong and not letting the governor work, every thing went together ok inside the engine and I have adjusted the governor arm correctly. I havnt got any more 11hp engines to compare springs. the only other problem is the worn throttle shaft on the carby wont let it idle properly, most around now have done a lot of work and are all worn, I might be better off just buying a new one, thanks

Hi micka,
please post a picture of the governor linkage and spring. It sounds as if there is an assembly error. No big deal to put right unless you allow it to over-rev before you fix the governor problem.

hi grumpy this is what I have, if they turn out

Thanks micka, Here is the Illustrated Parts List for your 11 hp engine:
http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/Z6lttJVJ1DajI.pdf

Here is the diagram showing how your links should be set up:


Your engine is shown in Fig. 106. Your links seem correct to me.

You haven't said that you set up the rack and pinion governor control correctly. Here is the Operator's Manual:
http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/msoBGL-K_ny7tH217FzoPu.pdf

Refer to Page 7 of the Operator's Manual. Here is what it tells you to do to adjust the setup so the governor can work correctly:

will try thanks grumpy

hi grumpy I done the adjustments, also I think because I was using the governor spring of the old 12.5hp I used the governor arm off the 12.5, everything looked a lot better and worked, there was a difference in the two arms

Usually you can tell whether the tension on the governor spring is about right, micka, but not until you've been through all this a few times. I'm glad you've got it running properly, and haven't broken anything or wasted a lot of money along the way.

I'll close this thread.