OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Engines Questions On Briggs & Stratton Engines Fuel inlet 10.5 hp

I have a 10.5HP on a Cox XL Scout and am wondering about the brass fuel inlet at the carburetor. It is very short and doesn't have much of a barb and no matter how tight I try to get a worm drive clamp it sooner or later vibrates off. I am wondering if it is possible to replace the part, how to go about it and can I get a right angle one instead of the straight one, which takes the fuel line right across the top of the muffler.

Hi aussietrev. To look into this we need to know exactly what engine it is. If it's a Briggs, we need Model, Type and Code numbers in full.

Here is the info
Model 288707
Type 0115 01
Code 94060 40
B&S 10.5HP I/C
Synchro Balanced

Thanks for that. According to the manual that will have a Walbro LMT carburetor. Here is what it should look like:



Please verify and confirm that this is the carburetor you have. At the moment I don't see why it would be difficult to retain the fuel hose, unless the carburetor has been modified.

If only it was so Grumpy, I wouldn't be seeking help.
Here's what mine looks like. Distance from shoulder to tip, about 6mm. Possibly previous tenant has broken off the original tube. So can it be replaced and if so, is it a press fit or threaded in?

It isn't removable, but I can't be sure it is pressed in (though I think it probably is). However the emissions version of the LMT seems to have had an elbow that was probably screwed in:


This makes me suspect that there is enough meat around the pressed in fitting, for a tapped thread. Of course it may be that the screwed in elbow version had a smaller hole, but I think there's a good chance it didn't. People don't usually change major tooling unless they have to.

Worst case, you need another LMT, which is not especially rare. Best case, you'll manage to remove the current fitting, tap the carburetor body to suit an elbow, and put it together.

That was a plastic elbow that was pressed onto the brass barb pictured, it would appear it's gone walkabout.

Thanks Joe. Do you know if the plastic elbow was available as a spare part? The parts lists I've seen doesn't show the pipe, elbow, or whatever. Aside from the one illustration I posted above, the tech manual only shows the curved pipe.

No idea sorry but I'll get a photo of one on my 13hp that spat a conrod shortly.

Was the elbow on the emissions LMT in the illustration I posted above, actually one of your plastic ones Joe? Because it is covered with flat surfaces ideal for putting a spanner across, I thought it was metal.

Thanks for the extra info Joe. Now these photos lead me to another quandary. Both of them show the tube facing towards the inlet side of the carby which on this engine faces towards the crank end. Thing is the fuel tank has a fixed outlet which faces towards the head end of the motor. This routes the fuel line across the head right next to the spark plug and around across the top of the muffler meaning to get to an inlet facing that way it would then need to do a 180. It seems to be an original tank for the engine as it is sculpted around the cowling and oil filler but is it usual for the fuel line to be running over the muffler like that?

G'day Trev,
I would solder a piece of copper pipe onto your fuel inlet stump, flare the end of it to help seal the fuel hose.

I have seen them with the fuel line running over the muffler & around the head.

The muffler should have a heat shield, protecting carb & fuel line from heat.

On top of that you can run the fuel line through a piece of copper pipe to further protect it & tie it up out of the way.

Just my thoughts
Cheers from Mark

Good thinking, Mark. I would use a piece of copper tubing the same diameter as the stump of the old fuel entry fitting, and expand its last quarter inch by driving a mandrel into it. Then I'd curve it in the direction you need, before attaching it. However solding in the presence of petrol fumes is hazardous. I think it is important to remove the carburetor from the engine, empty it of fuel, and wear gloves and safety glasses as a further safeguard.

Nice Grumpy,
If Trev decides to go that way, another thing to consider is heat damaging anything not metal in the carb, like the needle seat, orings, plastic.

They can be removed & you can also use point nose pliers or similar as a heat sink.

The carburetor has to be removed anyway, for safety, and when you've done that it makes sense to remove the float & needle. If the needle's seating cone is Viton (black plasticy stuff) the seat will be metal, probably brass, and it is OK to solder the pipe. If the needle's seating cone is metal, the seat is probably Viton and it isn't OK to solder the pipe, Mark, you make a good point there. We old guys are used to the Viton being on the needle, which is still usual but not universal.

If you are going to use a torch rather than an industrial-strength soldering iron for the soldering job, the whole carburetor needs to be stripped: remove main jet, emulsifier, etc. If you are using what I'd use (a Weller instant heat electric iron) it is only the float bowl seat I'd be worried about cooking, but I'd remove the float anyway, because it would be at risk of mechanical damage during the handling. Remember to clean everything before you try to solder it, then flux it and tin it, or you'll use way too much heat trying to cook the crud off.

Thanks for all the thoughts guys. Here is my final solution, no disassembly required.
Starting with two 6mm threaded barbs and a threaded right angle, out with the vernier and measured the stub on the fuel inlet and then drilled one barb right through for an interference fit and chamfered the end that is to go against the carburetor. Assembled with some Loctite thread seal and tape and hammer fitted it to the carburetor. Final photo is all reassembled and leak checked.

Seems like a solid job, aussietrev. I take it the stub fitting already in the carburetor had a good smooth surface, so a compression fitting will seal well on it.

Thanks Grumpy. I drilled it to be a tight interference fit so if it didn't have a smooth surface before it did after I hammered it on.
That turnbuckle cutter brake adjuster I made for the same machine works like a charm. Only thing left now is to get the height adjuster working a bit better. I got the machine from the previous tenant not running with the wiring burnt out in exchange for a book that I was given years ago as a gift and apart from a new solenoid and some oil I really have only had to spend a couple of dollars and a few man hours on it to have it mowing like a champion.

Well done aussietrev - that kind of project is what Outdoorking is all about: making something out of nothing, and having fun doing it.