OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Restoring, Customising and Modifying Reel-Type Mowers SB 45 mechanical restoration

Hi, I picked up a cheap SB45 about a year ago, and I'm looking at a basic mechanical restoration to get it running and cutting well.

My father in law is a retired mechanic and has good fitting/machining skills, and also likes a project. I'm hoping to get him on board to help with any engine issues. The motor runs ok, starts reasonably easily.

The front roller shaft is very worn, does it need replacing? How do I go about replacing roller end caps?

I'm getting the cylinder sharpened and adjusted as a start.

Even with a blunt blade and dodgy front roller it does a better job than my rotary, so I'm looking forward to great results when it's running optimally.

I've taken some photos but struggling to attach them!

Thanks in advance,
Krusty

Worked out how to upload multiple pics, hope this helps.

Hi Krusty, and a warm welcome to the forum.
It's always nice to welcome another Scott Bonnar Owner on board.
If you are having troubles posting pics, the instructions for using our forum 'Inline Uploader' can be found HERE
The roller end-caps are available in our forum Online Store,
HERE

The front roller shaft can be purchased but are expensive, they can be built up with weld in the worn areas and then turned down to size....your Dad in law may help you there.
Please read my threads concerning cylinder reel and bedknife sharpening HERE and instructions for removal of the reel and soleplate (they are both taken to the machinist/engineer for sharpening) can be seen in this video HERE

Once again Krusty, to OutdoorKing.

Hey Krusty, you beat me to it and worked it out yourself...good on ya!

Well your machine is a Series 1, solid engine deck 17" Model 45 machine, with the Kirby Lauson (Tecumseh) engine, manufactured in the Scott Bonnar factory in Thebarton South Australia. That model was first introduced in 1968 and manufactured until the introduction of the twin rail deck design in late 1974 early 1975.
With the Kirby engine, we cannot establish a date of manufacture, and hence cannot accurately date your machine.

Thanks Deejay,
I'm taking the whole mower in to get the blades done properly. I'll leave the front roller for the moment, I've flipped the shaft prior to replacing, which hopefully will be a little better. The end caps are alloy, not plastic. The grub screws (if that's what they are) have round holes in them, so I'm unsure how to remove them. I may get my f.i.l to machine up a nice stainless shaft (he's got plenty lying around) and make up some bushes to use with the current end caps to firm things up.

Hi again Krusty,
If you take the whole machine in in will cost you more for the job...this will be a task that you will have to do as needed mate...so just follow my instructions in the video...you can do this yourself...and save considerable $$$, and have the satisfaction of doing it yourself...I will step you through it, if you so desire...
Plus you will learn a new skill that is normally the purview of greenskeepers!

Re: your front roller, they are the alloy type used on the early ones; they are riveted on; just drill out the rivet with a suitably sized twist drill and out they pop... and yes you can bush them in brass...but they will need oiling...drill a small hole through the end-cap and bush, on an angle and use a general purpose oil...they will last a lot longer, and do the shaft a favour at the same time.

Hoping this will be of help,

Thanks Deejay,
Haven't got the right tools at the moment, but plan to get sorted before the next sharpening is needed. Happy to pay a bit extra to make sure it's right, and that I don't damage anything.
I'll decide on easiest approach to the front roller once I've talked to my f.i.l about new shaft and bushes.
Should have it back and mowing next week.

Hi again Krusty, No worries, mate.
Just a heads-up, with the machines age, and not knowing how many times the reel and bedknife have been ground, and what has/has-not been replaced, I would suggest that you consider replacing the reel bearings anyway.
They are not expensive, and are critical for the reel to bedknife adjustment.

+1 for what Deejay said about the reel bearings. The only thing I might add is those bearings that were originally fitted to the reel were not a sealed bearing. Replace them with sealed bearings.

Got it back today, new cylinder bearings as well. Cuts much better. Hopefully I'll get the front roller fixed a bit in the next couple of weeks. Depending on how big a job it is the motor may have to wait until winter.

Hi Krusty, I'm glad you got it all sorted, and that you had the bearing replaced. I sure you will have many a pleasurable hour mowing during the summer season. As this thread is now complete, I will now close it, but when you come back in winter to attend to the Kirby, please post you questions HERE
Many thanks for coming back with your results,