OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Restoring, Customising and Modifying Reel-Type Mowers Solid Deck SB 45 20"

Update on the 20";
Things have been a bit busy in other areas around the house at the moment, with a 2 month-old and some house reno's on the way in the next few weeks it has been hard to get much more done on the mower.

I ordered some re-pro period correct decals from ebay. It seems that in the brochures from deejay, the 20" didn't come with the chain case (Scott Bonnar 45)decal, but I decided to go with it anyway.




I mocked the engine up and assembled the handlebars and clutch lever. I was surprised at how high up the engine sits. I then realized a major issue that the exhaust exits the muffler directly on the handlebar fascia. I thought about making a small deflector to route the exhaust to the side away from the fascia and from myself while using it. I found an old Briggs muffler and low and behold, there is a removable deflector that I can use. I'm not totally happy with how this looks, but no one will notice it is there and it is there to serve a purpose; route the exhaust away. It would probably look better painted in satin rather than flat black to match the rest of the muffler shroud. Fired it up and it seems to work reasonably effectively





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Also set up the linkages to the engine, as well as stripped the carby as this motor was sitting for a while at work. Gave it a run, but I think it still needs some fine tuning once its installed.

Simon

Hi SimRice,
This machine has come up a treat...looks better than new...a Honda powered Scotty; a man of my own heart!
on a fantastic resto...
I hope it gives you many of hours of mowing pleasure.

Very nicely done, great to see

Looking good !! Love the 20"ers
I had the same issue with the exhaust hitting the bars....hence the custom exhaust.
Nice job mate.

Also you can flip the oem exhaust on the hondas to point fwd, might be worth a try if she smokes out your nice paint job on the bar sheild.

Thanks guys for the kind words.

I tried flipping the exhaust on the manifold and it fouls on the tank. I'll run it in its current config and see how it goes. No doubt I'll scratch the paint within a week of using it anyways!

Finito! Finally.

In the end I am fairly happy with how it has come up. Mind the hideous lawn, it has had no love for 3 months while we were doing reno's. This will be put to work tomorrow hopefully getting things back how they should be.

Now how good does that look! on a fantastic resto....and now its got to earn its keep!

Thank you Deejay! Your commitment to this forum makes these resto's lots of fun and as easy as it can be.

Took her out for a shakedown tonight and noticed an issue that has me a little perplexed. When I disengage the cutter clutch the reel still wants to rotate. The reel doesn't turn fast, but just turns very slowly. It turns freely by hand with the engine off and the clutch disengaged. I adjusted the clutch fork, but it didn't seem to make a difference.

I thought possibly the inner clutch half was positioned too far along the engine shaft (away from engine) causing the input shaft to move too far through the thrust bearing and into the inner clutch half. Is that plausible? In any event I moved the clutch closer to the engine so I will see if that makes a difference tomorrow.

Apart from that minor issue, I can't believe how well this machine cuts and drives. When I first used it after I purchased it, it snaked all over the shop and generally felt loose and wobbly. Now its tight and precise.

Hi SimRice,
You have got it in one! Well done mate! The prob was that the inner clutch cone was just slightly engaging the cork in the outer ring just enough to turn the reel very slowly...Sometimes this happens when the throttle is left at a higher setting when the cutter clutch is disengaged also.

It is just an adjustment problem and easily fixed once you work out what is happening.
Good stuff! (and many thanks for the kind words)
Best wishes,

Hi Darryl,

Has anyone ever reported any issues with chassis alignment of these solid deck machines?

I had to completely rebuild my mower last night as one side was cutting much lower than the other. I think I have it sorted now, but I am concerned that it may go out of alignment again with time.

Thoughts?

Hi SimRice, there has been discussion on the forum about chassis alignment before, but I think in your case I know the answer.
On the right hand side of the rear roller (looking from the rear of the machine) there is an adjustment that can be made on the bearing cap and chassis where it bolts to the frame, so as the rear roller can be aligned perfectly to ensure a level cut. This is always set at the factory and normally would not be touched again unless the rear roller had to be removed for whatever reason.

This happened in your case during the restoration and is an easy fix, which is probably what you found; as you said you have got it sorted. Once locked in position, it will not go out of alignment again unless the nuts loosen due to vibration.It is a good thing to go over the whole machine with a spanner every now and again, after a complete rebuild.

Hi Darryl. One whole side plate was on an angle causing not just mid-alignment with the rollers and bedknife, but also the reel could not be adjusted to cut cleanly.

So I rebuilt the whole mower around the casting plate and checked as I tightened all the bolts up. I think my error may be that when initially built it up the casting and reel were the last parts to go in as they were being machined.

Must say that since I rebuilt this I am in love! Before I was a little disappointed but I am very satisfied now.

Hi again SimRice,
Yes mate, that is a trap for the unwary. The sole plate is one of the first to go back in, after the rear roller.
Thanks for reporting back mate.