OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Walk Behind Lawn Mower Frames Question On Scott Bonnar Cylinder Mowers My SB Project

Hi All, ive decided to restore my old Scott Bonnar 45 with a B+S 80202 motor. For me its not really about the end product moreso about actually doing it as i havent pulled apart an motor since high school.

Ive included some picks to look at and if you could give me some pointers, hints, obvious clues it is really apreciated.

Thanks in advance

Elevatorman.

Unfortunately i think my basic pics are more than 4mb's.

I couldnt add standard frontal pics as they were too big.

Unfortunately, the pic for the other main sprockets were too big to download(around 4.5m). Im not sure how to do a less data pic at the moment.

The model numbers are 80202-087901-80040903.

I do have a question off the bat and that is given the magneto is a step up transformer of sorts, how do you disseminate the leads? You have 3 leads at a juncture on the laminated iron core which i assume is a grd point but you have effectively 6 leads. Given that im a sparky by trade im not sure what else is in the package as well and does anyone have a print for it and how the electrics work?

thanks in advance elevatorman.

Hi elevatorman, and a warm welcome to the forum. It's great to have another Scott Bonnar Model 45 owner on board.
What you need to do is download a converter program (which is a free download) to convert your pics to a smaller size (but retaining the pic quality)
The engine shaft sprocket (the top small one) has had its day and should be replaced (pointy teeth)....we can't see the others but some may be the same...please post again when you get a pic convertor.

The chains should also be replaced as you replace the sprockets.
You seem to have a machine that is in good restorable condition; plenty of meat on the reel for re-sharpening; and appears to have had the inner clutch half replaced at some time; all should be ok with the cutter clutch.
More pics please, and we can advise you further.
Once again, to OutdoorKing.

Hi Deejay, thanks for the reply.

i will have to get this converter program(and idea?) as i've sort of kept a pic diary in case i get into trouble. Ive had a little trouble with my subs to get the manuals and as yet its not quite sorted out. I did notice that sprocket but as i haven't seen a new one i wasn't sure about the wear. I need to get an overview of the motor to understand what everything is called and where they go.

Do i need a bearing puller to get the starter case and flywheel off? I don't want to break anything!

Update.

I've got access to the SB manuals section which is good but i cant get into the B+S section which i need for the engine. I'm getting there slowly but surely.

Elevatorman, you will need to fit a new screw/ nut to the outer clutch half as there is one missing. Also appears the front rail where the engine bolts fit to it is cracking- a common problem for these mowers, same happened to my machine. Suggest keep an eye on it however it is repairable. I welded a flat piece of metal underside & has held up ok.
cheers Ross

Well spotted Ross, you have an eagle eye...
Elevatorman, we need to see pics of the chassis now that the engine has been removed and we will help diagnose any probs we can see. I can tell you that the bottom blade (bedknife) looks in good condition as well.

For resizing your pics, just google free picture re-sizer/converter downloads.

Elevatorman, I forgot to mention that I will help with all chassis problems, but I will now hand you over to grumpy who is our Briggs and Stratton guru....he will help you to get your Briggs running sweetly.

Ok managed to get a great program to resize photo's so i'm learning every day with the software programs that are out there.





This is just an the machine i'm working with.




this is a view of the rest of the sprockets.



I'll probably replace the spark plug anyway.

Hi mate, i think i took that photo after i removed the screw so that's all good but thanks for the reply.

cheers mate.

This is what i said earlier regarding bearing pullers. Can i get the cord starter/fly wheel without one?



I'm definately going to need help with the carby.

Ok i am having real trouble removing the rear cover/base to the cord starter and fly wheel. Are they 1 piece or come off together. I've tried to use a 3 leg bearing puller but to no avail. Is this right?

Also i got some info from supercheap toady regarding septone hammertone green. Its is available to order-pn afhfg1 for the 1lt, or 4g for the 4lt tin however to order in the freight is huge as its a flammable and needs a specific truck.

Edit: It really pays to research other threads!! I found out the starter casing is threaded so i used as set of crane wedges to lock the fly wheel then knock around the case with a block of wood. I said earlier about the magneto and noticed in the other thread there was a bit of confusion about points or no points. When i removed the fly wheel i noticed cut wires( 2 black wires) and is the rest of the magneto behind this alum cover and has it been modified?

Question for the overhaulers. How did you clean the cutter roller blades/cage? I have been cleaning the other metal work with a rotary wire brush but the cutter is hard to get into the nook and crannies. Paint stripper?

Any suggestions?

Thanks gents.

Hi elevatorman, sand, bead or seed blasting is the way to go....absolutely essential if you are considering powder-coating it.

Question to those who have had their cutter reel sharpened. I'm after a place who sharpens near frankston on the peninsula and what to expect it to cost.

Thanks.

Hi again, contact your local Bowling Club, speak to the greens-keeper and see who does theirs....always a good place to start. Do not go to a mower shop, they will send it out anyway, and charge you extra, as the middle man.
Please let us know how you get on....
Best wishes,
Deejay.

Thanks DJ. I have put the reel in for a sand blast($20) and will try to find a green keeper to get some info.

My rebuild is coming along nearly finished the motor clean and repaint. I may need some tips regarding the carby linkages and connections. Did you notice the magneto looks like it has been modded?

I've split the chassis apart and will clean and repaint soon. Pics to come soon.

Thanks elevatorman.

Indeed it looks like somone has coverted it to a magnetron magneto syste, great from my point of view as it's virtually maintnance free.

Hi all, haven't been on lately but will be uploading some progressive shots of newly painted equipment.

Just to let everyone know i located a reel sharpener in melb for those that need it. Pm if you need it.

Hi elevatorman, and good to see you back....thanks for posting that info...may come in handy for members in the Melbourne area...
looking forward to seeing the pics,

dee jay i just saw the video on the reel adjustment (its great by the way) but have 1 question. Can you show me the bed knife as when i got my reel sharpened they couldnt do this but i think mine is basically brand new but doesn't have a shampher on it like in the reel video. How can you tell whether its ok? A pic would be good.

thanks e'man.

Hi elevatorman, this is a quote from a reliable source:
"New bedknives are certainly not true coming from the factory. Every bedknife that gets installed on a bed bar needs to be ground properly in order to achieve a consistent quality of cut. The bedknife is the single most important factor in achieving a great quality of cut. The bedknife�s job is to position the grass before the reel blade cuts it. Depending on where the position is will depend on how clean and consistent your turfs after cut appearance will look".

I have to leave shortly, but will take a pic of mine asap.

Thanks mate. My bedknife is new and was installed as is by the local mower shop who got my blade sharpened ages ago. I will try to get a pic to show you.

thanks E man.

Hi E man, mate, just so as I have got this straight, are you saying that you had the reel sharpened ages ago, then recently you had a new bed knife fitted by your local mower shop?
If this is the case, this is not the way to go. The cylinder reel and bedknife are ground at the same time so as they match each other....that is why I recommend that the owner take the reel and soleplate complete (with the bedknife still attached) to the engineer/machinist for the re-grind.

Here is a pic of my bedknife (not a great pic, but you can see where it has been ground):

here is some progress shots.

Hi DJ thanks for your reply. Here is my bed knife and its not ground down. I think when i got the cutter sharpened ages ago the bed knife was replaced at the time. It doesn't appear as thick as yours so maybe that's why. As far as i understand the bed knife only positions the grass in a certain way(how is this done ie does it keep it vertical?) When i got the cutter sharpened just recently they couldn't do the bed knife(i wish i knew this before) but i don't want to spend the cash unless i really have to.

I also asked this on another thread but where can you find a new make/model tag that you rivet to the frame? My old one was a sticker.

Hi again E man, unfortunately, the ID tags were never available as a spare part...they were affixed to the frame/chassis at manufacture at Thebarton factory in South Aust, and later in the Rover guise by Rover at their factory. I am sorry I can't help on this one....there just not there to be had.

Re: your cylinder/bedknife issue, unless the bedknife is ground to perfection, you will never achieve the finest adjustment possible, if it is not perfectly flat and true.