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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 612
Likes: 1
Qualified Senior
Got a Corsair (2 stroke) with a scored cylinder. It is not starting and will need its cylinder replaced. Also have a Victa 2 stroke mower that has minimal information on it but there is a model no on it VJ165A. I am wondering whether I can take the cylinder from the VJ and put it into the Corsair. If it can be done what special tools will I need?
If it can't be done, what is a reasonable price to pay for a cylinder/piston so that I can attempt the job myself?

Portal Box 6
Joined: Jun 2011
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Master Technician
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Well according to my records that model number comes up as 1980-1981 or an 1982-1983 Commando.Either way we can work out that it is a full crank engine.So in that case re-boring (I think) would just be a waste of money as there are still plenty of good second hand ones around.Then you've got the big hassle of finding a new oversized piston.If they are the same engine then they are very easy to change over without special tool.You can (if you have problems putting the piston back in)get a ring compressor to help with that.I can (as I'm sure most people can)put it back in without it.Some do choose not to as sometimes it can be more of a pain,I think it is anyway.If your not sure if they are the same just pop up some pictures and I'm sure others as well as me can help identify them for you.Hope this helps.


Here for a good time,not a long time.
Joined: Mar 2008
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Thanks Blumbly, glad that you can identify it from the limited info that I had. I think that perhaps they are not the same size cylinders after reading some of the posts here. So if I understand you correctly it would be easier to just buy a second-hand piston and cylinder and install that, what should I pay for an 2nd hand piston and cylinder? Also, are there any traps I may run into when trying to install the new piston/cylinder?

Joined: Jun 2011
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It may even be easier just to change the whole engine.That's what I would do.Second hand parts can vary in price just don't pay too much as they are heaps about.I take it you have pulled the engine down and found all the drama?I would look for another engine unless you really want to do that work then that's fine as well.Just keep an eye on ebay they come up from time to time.You may even be lucky to find new rings.Bruce may even have some here in the store,I don't know I have never looked.I guess it depends on which way you want to go.There some little things that can be done to make putting it together easier,but we can chat about that when your closer,or which ever way you decide to go.


Here for a good time,not a long time.
Joined: Mar 2008
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Hi again Blumbly, I haven't pulled the engine apart yet, just took the muffler off and could see the scoring on the cylinder, the piston/rings looked ok. Any idea of what I should pay just for the cylinder?

Joined: Mar 2008
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Further to my last post, spoke to a mower place and they said I need 2 tools in order to do this job, a crank pin removal tool and a press - are there other options to these tools or are they must have?

Joined: Jun 2011
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Is it possible to post up some pictures of this mower? As I'm starting to question whether I have got it right or not.As I have never needed special tools to do the job.


Here for a good time,not a long time.
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I have attached some photos. One photo is of the Corsair which is the one that I would like to repair. It is the typical powertorque Victa. The other 2 photos are of the second machine which looks older but has little to identify it. Hope that helps. So to recap, can I just move the engine from the second machine to the Corsair or do I just find another engine?


[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]

Joined: Jun 2011
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Ok my first guess was wrong is not a full crank,and yes special tools are required you can make them however. I'll get you a link for that later. No you can't change those engines over as one what looks like a series 80 engine full crank. The other (the one you want to fix) is a powertorque (or should I say you can but they are different and maybe the holes won't line up). There was a guy on eBay selling rebored blocks and piston for them. I will have a look when I get home today. You might even be better to go to your local tip shop and get one. Those mowers are every where.


Here for a good time,not a long time.
Joined: Mar 2008
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Thanks Blumbly, I did manage to find a section on this forum about making a crank-pin removal tool out of a socket but haven't found anything about how to get around the Press requirement. I used to see the odd mower when there were Hard-Waste collections held bi-anually but here in Melbourne they have changed the system and now you must arrange individually to have a Hard-Waste collection so you don't see many mowers or anything else put out. If anyone in Melbourne is reading this, where do you get your old mowers from?

Joined: Jun 2011
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Maybe send a PM to Rodeobob he is down your way and he has a lot more knowledge on pulling these apart.He may even have what you need to fix your problem.I do know scrap-yards are a good source of picking up mowers.Give that a go.


Here for a good time,not a long time.
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No worries Blumbly, you mentioned that there was a link for making some tools to help with these jobs, were you referring to the crank-pin removal tool or were there others?

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No that was the one. Then you can make your socket.


Here for a good time,not a long time.
Joined: Mar 2008
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Thanks Blu
Originally Posted by Blumbly
No that was the one. Then you can make your socket.


Thanks Blumbly, do you have any links etc for dealing with the press side of things, ie anything homemade that you can use rather than having to buy a press?

Joined: Jun 2011
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As I said before send a PM to Rodeobob as he has done a lot more work on powertorque engines. I've never had to use a press before. When it comes to removing the gudgeon pin I've just used a brass punch and hammer.


Here for a good time,not a long time.
Joined: Feb 2011
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Qualified Senior
G'day tiger,
I just pulled one of these apart to replace a very loose bottom bearing. I took a few shots along the way, I did it with out a press.
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]

I am not sure what stage you are at, happy to answer any questions.


Happy is he who penetrates the mystery of things.
Joined: Mar 2008
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Qualified Senior
Thanks Mark, that is very helpful, clear photos and appreciate you taking the time to post them.
Blumbly, sent Rodeo a message yesterday, first time I've sent a message on this forum so not sure if he's got it yet.

Joined: Jun 2011
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Yes he will have got it.I have noticed he hasn't been on for a few days but he will get it when he goes onto this forum,or checks his emails.Well done mark,I don't play with these engines very often.Certainly not to that extend.Also Mark what is wrong with your hands they have turned grey? Won't come and visit you until your hands are feeling better.


Here for a good time,not a long time.
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Hi all.

Got the PM.

Havent been on much of late, a bit busy.
Been away for a few days, literally just got home. Half a day early, no way im drivin in the heat.


Tiger, Both engines are totally different.
The carbs are the same.
The pistons are the same. Well they should be. The engine in the Corsair should have the narrow transfer ports.
The later power torques had wider transfer ports and the pins for the ring neds were moved slighly but these pistons work fine in the earlier motors.

You say the cylinder is scored. You looked in the exhaust port and the cyl in scored. But the rings look OK. So if you give the rings a poke they will push in and out of the ring groove in the piston?? Good free rings are way more important than the condition of the cylinder.


Victas will run with the rings clagged up in the exhaust side of the piston and scored up the whazoo.
IE: they dont need much compression to run.

By the sounds of it, if it wont run, I doubt the score in your bore is the issue.

Can you put us up some pics of the cyl & piston looking in through the exhaust and inlet ports?? Or even cyl with the head off??


The pics above from Mark show it all pretty good.
I highly reccommend using a crank pin removal tool.
A bit hard to be real accurate doing the pin back up without one.
The rope trick is a great trick, just be careful on a 2 stroke not to stuff it in the exhaust or transfer ports then mush the rope with the piston while its in one of them.
If the head is loose an appropriate block of wood would work as well.

If you have a vice you can clamp that boss on the crank and do what you have to to the crank pin. You do not need to remove the crank to just hone and fit new (piston &) rings, just be a bit careful not to get honing slop up into the bearing.

When knocking the crank out with an old blade disk nut I usually sit the block upside down on a big redgum block I have out in the shed. You cant get the crank all the way out but just about.

Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 612
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Qualified Senior
Thanks Rodeobob, I will try and get a few pictures today, like others don't like taking the muffler off as I sometimes struggle to get it back where it was.
The Corsair is close to a start but never quite gets there. It's my mother's mower and was brought to a mower shop where they said it needed another engine/re-bore.

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