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#32611 15/01/12 10:28 PM
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 31
SB Lover
Hi all, joined the forum today, was told to put up some photos of the 45 17" I intend to rebuild/restore.

Was looking for a bit of info on this model, told to put up the code on the B&S motor, it is: 80202 2324 01 88072703. Can anyone help me out with what all that means? My father had a 45 in the 80's, his was painted the darker hammered green with the orange B&S motor, is this one newer than that?

I bought it for $150, told by its elderly owner that it hadn't been started in 5 years and wouldn't start for him. Changed the fuel and oil and it started in a few pulls and purred nicely. Did a test run and all seems operational, cuts nicely and drives well.

I've almost stripped it down to the frame but have come across a stumbling block, the absolute last nut to be undone is the engine shaft sprocket nut. Can't for the life of me figure out how to get it off as I have no grip on the shaft to get it off, can anyone give me any ideas? I don't want to dameage the shaft by using vice-grips or putting it in the bench vice.

The strip down was for the intention of checking everything and to ready it for new paint. I'm thinking that sandblasting is my best option, anyone can recommend a place in Sydney and give me a rough idea on price for the frame, chain cover, and handlebar centerpiece?

Hoping people can give me suggestions as to what to do, I don't need a show pony, this machine will be used, but I want the best result possible.

Cheers,
David

[Linked Image from i1091.photobucket.com]
[Linked Image from i1091.photobucket.com]
[Linked Image from i1091.photobucket.com]
[Linked Image from i1091.photobucket.com]
[Linked Image from i1091.photobucket.com]
[Linked Image from i1091.photobucket.com]

Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 6,926
Likes: 10
Pushrod Honda preferrer
***
Hi David, our B&S historian, Deejay, is away on vacation at present but we can make a start with some easy stuff. First, the numbers on your Briggs engine. It is 8 cubic inch displacement (130 cc), is from the first Briggs design series, has a horizontal crankshaft, a Pulsa-Jet carburetor, plain main bearings, and a rewind starter. (The model number tells us all that). It was made on 27 July 1988. If it is the original engine fitted to your mower (which is likely), the mower will have been made between late 1988 and some time in 1989. Being made after 1983, your engine will have electronic (breakerless) ignition.

Your mower's reel (the rotating blades) looks as if it has probably never been resharpened, which means the quite large expense of replacing it is likely to be a very long way in the future. I can't judge how sharp it is, or the condition of the bedknife, from the pictures, but if it is mowing well, things look positive. You seem to have got hold of a good example of the SB45. However you need to inspect the condition of the chains and sprockets, in case they are worn or rusted.

So far as dismantling and painting are concerned, let's see if one of our experienced SB45 owners is available to help. Steve, Deejay?

Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 31
SB Lover
Cheers for the info Grumpy, much appreciated.

My main problem at the moment is that I simply have no idea how to either get the engine shaft sprocket or the engine shaft bearing off. The shaft goes through the left(standing behind) side of the frame and it's being there is stopping me from having a stripped chassis ready for re-painting. I've attached some pics.

The blades do seem good, spoke to a sharpener in Engadine who said that once the blades reach 50-52mm(measured from the shaft to outer edge of blade) he has a hard time doing any more and the reel will need replacing. Mine has 60mm. How much metal should I expect to be removed in a sharpening?
Not sure how it's supposed to look but the bedknife has a totally vertical front edge, does this sound right?

Everything else seems in working order. The sprockets don't seem very worn to me, no rust on the chains. There is a chunk taken out of the roller drive clutch, is this a cause for concern? Guess with the cork lining being so cheap I should just replace anyway. How do you replace it? It seems glued on.

Sorry for all the questions and thanks again,


[Linked Image from i1091.photobucket.com]
[Linked Image from i1091.photobucket.com]
[Linked Image from i1091.photobucket.com]
[Linked Image from i1091.photobucket.com]
[Linked Image from i1091.photobucket.com]

Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 6,926
Likes: 10
Pushrod Honda preferrer
***
I'll try to go through your questions in order David. First, removing the drive shaft sprocket. I think all you need to do there is hold the shaft from rotating while you unscrew the nut retaining the sprocket. The shaft rotates anticlockwise when viewed from the sprocket end, so the nut should have a right hand thread (cylinder mowers have a sprinkling of left hand threads in the drive system, so always be careful about this). Hold the shaft close to the bearing housing with a Stillson wrench or a pipe wrench of some other type. Remember such wrenches are "handed" - they will only work in one direction, so the teeth bite into the shaft when you unscrew the nut. That means you have to turn the wrench over if the teeth lie on the shaft in the non-biting direction, otherwise you might as well use a file while pressing on the back stroke instead of the cutting stroke. Then apply a socket or ring spanner to the nut, and unscrew it. Your washer under the nut appears to have been bent up to help lock the nut, so you will probably need to tap this down flat to be able to put the spanner on properly and unscrew it easily. After removing the nut the sprocket appears from the parts list to be pushed onto the shaft over a key. Look at the end of the sprocket to see if there is a keyway, to verify this. If there is a keyway, the sprocket may be a bit tight on the shaft. If so you may need a little gear puller to pull it off.

How much metal is removed from the reel during sharpening depends on two factors: how much has to be removed to "clean-up" the surfaces of the blades; and how the tradesman goes about the job. In my view, removing the smallest possible amount of metal while achieving a full clean-up is a sign of a decent tradesman. With regard to the bedknife, having a perfectly straight front edge along its full length, with a perfectly sharp top corner, is one of the requirements for good mowing. The other bedknife requirement is a perfectly smooth top surface, where the reel blades whistle past it. If the mower has ever been run with the blades touching the bedknife even lightly, there is a good chance the top surface of the bedknife will be a bit wavy, which is a bad thing.

We normally judge the state of wear of a sprocket by looking at it from a position in line with its axle, so we can see the shape of each of its teeth. The shape changes with wear. So far as the clutch is concerned, I personally would not be concerned about that small surface tear in the cork.


Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 31
SB Lover
Success! Bit the bullet and used the big vice-grips. slight marks to shaft but will be hidden under engine clutch/flywheel housing.

Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 6,926
Likes: 10
Pushrod Honda preferrer
***
David, those small marks on the shaft can be further reduced by judicious use of a file, making your strokes around the periphery, not along the shaft. Just remove the part that is raised up above the original level, don't reduce the diameter of the shaft. Once the raised up part is gone, the marks will be quite inconspicuous. However it would be wise to do this after you put it back together, since you may make new marks when you re-tighten that nut.

Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 31
SB Lover
Already done, thanks Grumpy.

Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,998
Likes: 16
Former Moderator
Hi all,

This is my very first post on this forum but I've been a member for sometime now.

I just would like some clarification on Grumpy's point Re: reel contact against the bed knife blade. I set my machines up after reel refinishing so that I can cut a piece of newspaper cleanly at any point accross the bed knife, as such one requires a minimal amount of contact between the reel and bottom blade so as to achieve this result, much the same as a pair of scissors. If there is no contact then the grass is basically folded and torn and not cleanly cut as is the result one wants from these types of mowers. I have been taught how to do this by a number of people within the lawnmower trade and the best result I've ever had is from Steve at Australian Saws and Cylinder Blade Sharpening Services. He's spent most of his life doing larger bowling green machines for all over South Australia. I must admit I swear by his practices and his workmanship and as such I'm somewhat bemused at the above comment about no contact between the two components.

Can someone clarify this for me. I've been using SB 45's for well over 25 years now (both my 14 and 17 inch machines)and have always set my reels up to this standard with perfect results and my local Jehova Witnesses talk endlessly to me about my lawns and not even trying to sell me a copy of "The Watchtower". That blows me away and says to me I must be doing something right.

Anyway that's my first post over done with and I'd love to hear any comments.

Cheers to all and this is a great forum with plenty of willing helpers I find.


I live a 24 Hour lifestyle, but every now and again I seem to fall asleep, well at least that's what my wife tells me.
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,362
Likes: 10
Administrator - Master Technician
****
Hi bonnar_bloke, and a warm welcome to the forum. grin
It's always great to welcome another Scott Bonnar aficionado on board; especially one that has used SB45's over a 25 years+ time frame.

You have bitten the bullet and posted (for the very first time, and it's great to see you posting) on a thread that creates a lot of debate. There are 2 schools of debate here; those that believe that there should be a slight contact....and those who don't. I am unashamedly, one of the latter. If you care to look at the video that Joe Carrol and I have just done...Click HERE you will see that I set the cylinder reel at minimal clearance and found the cut to be perfect. wink

Many people put great importance upon cutting paper...these machines are designed to cut grass..there is a lot of difference in the structure of paper to grass.
The method I employ still cuts paper...but not cigarette paper; but there is still a very slight clearance between the cylinder reel and bed-knife.

To achieve this, the cylinder reel bearings have to be in perfect condition and the reel and bedknife sharpened by an engineer (as you have).

What we want to achieve here is not a scissor cutting action, but a scything action... to achieve this a 90 degree flat sharp surface on the bed-knife is essential and the cylinder reel helix perfectly ground to match the bed-knife...with (using my method) minimal clearance.

I have spoken to various greenskeepers, (whom I know personally) who employ both methods, and both swear by their way of doing things.....I guess it's a matter of personal choice...you achieve the results you want to...so do I...So we're both happy little Vegemites! lol

One of the greenskeepers, that employs the minimal clearance methods, just prepared the greens for the National Lawn Bowls Championships, held late last year.
But as I have stated, there are 2 lines of thought...No one is right or wrong....that is called a conundrum; and I guess that is what this is...no right or wrong answer. Just a matter of choice.

bonnar_bloke, congrats on your first post, I hope it will not be you're last and most of all, :welcome: to the OutdoorKing forum. grin
cheers2

Last edited by CyberJack; 21/04/17 11:25 AM.

Please do not PM me asking for support. Please post your questions in the appropriate forums, as the replies it may receive may help all members, not just the individual member.
Kindest Regards, Darryl grin


Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 6,926
Likes: 10
Pushrod Honda preferrer
***
I think there is some overstatement by your US guru, Deejay. His talk of heating of edges, rapid blade wear, and overloading of drivelines - for a contact so light that you can spin the reel with your fingers - is in my opinion sheer nonsense. I agree with his conclusion - a set of perfect edges with not-quite contact is even better than a set of perfect edges with minuscule contact - but it seems to me that by employing so much exaggeration he weakened his case. That aside, I think your own explanation of the issues above is the best that I have seen. It is probably the first time we have fully agreed on this subject. A scythe does not need a fixed blade to make a perfect cut, but I don't think you can duplicate its effect with a reel mower because it only works well if the grass is at least a foot long, so that the grass above the cutting edge has a substantial amount of inertia. However the combination of the pushing action of a fast-moving scythe, with a really sharp stationary blade, can work beautifully if you also have so little clearance between the scythe and the fixed blade that the grass can't fit in between the two. Then most of it is cut by the inertia-of-the-grass principle that the scythe uses, and the remainder gets cut anyway by the lack of room between the fixed and moving blades.

The key point here is that if you can hear metal to metal contact when you rotate the reel slowly by hand, the reel is touching far too heavily under either the contact or non-contact method.

Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,362
Likes: 10
Administrator - Master Technician
****
Hi grumpy....this might prove of interest to you....taken directly from the John Deere site...

Special Feeler Gauges

Feeler gauges are used to accurately set the cutting cylinder to bedknife clearance on cylinder mowers. This adjustment is vital to ensure a good quality of cut. Also, if the two parts are set too close then they will make contact, leading to rapid wear of the bedknife and cutting cylinder and overloading the drive system. These special feeler gauges can help prevent injury to the operator. The feeler gauges are 30cm long, so hands and fingers can be kept away from cutting surfaces. The length also aids access for hard to reach places. Two thicknesses of feeler gauge are available � 0.001� and 0.002� � to help operators adjust John Deere cutting cylinders as recommended in the operator�s manual.

Part numbers: [Linked Image]

Special feeler gauges
KJD10551: 0.001� (one thou) feeler gauge. Used for setting up cylinder to bed knife clearance on greens mowers and 22M type units.
KJD10552: 0.002� (two thou) feeler gauge. Used for setting up cylinder to bed knife clearance on John Deere ESP cylinders.
Just food for thought, mate. grin
cheers2




Please do not PM me asking for support. Please post your questions in the appropriate forums, as the replies it may receive may help all members, not just the individual member.
Kindest Regards, Darryl grin


Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 6,926
Likes: 10
Pushrod Honda preferrer
***
I don't think we are ever going to agree Deejay, but perhaps the discussion is worthwhile as a way to tease out the arguments.

What do you make of the object he seems to have his right hand wrapped around?

[Linked Image]

Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,362
Likes: 10
Administrator - Master Technician
****
Hi grumpy, I think that is a 'verticut' or a scarifier, it's hard to tell how the set-up works with such a small area of the machine photographed. wink
cheers2


Please do not PM me asking for support. Please post your questions in the appropriate forums, as the replies it may receive may help all members, not just the individual member.
Kindest Regards, Darryl grin


Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 6,926
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Pushrod Honda preferrer
***
That is what it more or less looked like to me, Deejay, but I couldn't guess how it swings down into position. I remember deviosi removes both reel and bedknife when he carries out approximately that process.

Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,362
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Administrator - Master Technician
****
Hi grumpy, here is a link to a John Deere walk behind greens mower....have a look how complicated this beast is!! grin It does explain how it works....
Click HERE
cheers2


Please do not PM me asking for support. Please post your questions in the appropriate forums, as the replies it may receive may help all members, not just the individual member.
Kindest Regards, Darryl grin


Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 6,926
Likes: 10
Pushrod Honda preferrer
***
From that literature it seems to me it is a counter-rotating grass comb ahead of the reel to help align the grass all in the one direction, and stand it up again after the front roller passes over it. The comb is not ground-engaging, so it does not require height adjustment independent of the reel. Along with the grooved front roller, it seems to be part of a system to get all of the grass aligned consistently before cutting.

Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,998
Likes: 16
Former Moderator
Originally Posted by Deejay
Hi bonnar_bloke, and a warm welcome to the forum. grin
It's always great to welcome another Scott Bonnar aficionado on board; especially one that has used SB45's over a 25 years+ time frame.

You have bitten the bullet and posted (for the very first time, and it's great to see you posting) on a thread that creates a lot of debate. There are 2 schools of debate here; those that believe that there should be a slight contact....and those who don't. I am unashamedly, one of the latter. If you care to look at the video that Joe Carrol and I have just done...Click HERE you will see that I set the cylinder reel at minimal clearance and found the cut to be perfect. wink

Many people put great importance upon cutting paper...these machines are designed to cut grass..there is a lot of difference in the structure of paper to grass.
The method I employ still cuts paper...but not cigarette paper; but there is still a very slight clearance between the cylinder reel and bed-knife.

To achieve this, the cylinder reel bearings have to be in perfect condition and the reel and bedknife sharpened by an engineer (as you have).

What we want to achieve here is not a scissor cutting action, but a scything action... to achieve this a 90 degree flat sharp surface on the bed-knife is essential and the cylinder reel helix perfectly ground to match the bed-knife...with (using my method) minimal clearance.

I have spoken to various greenskeepers, (whom I know personally) who employ both methods, and both swear by their way of doing things.....I guess it's a matter of personal choice...you achieve the results you want to...so do I...So we're both happy little Vegemites! lol

One of the greenskeepers, that employs the minimal clearance methods, just prepared the greens for the National Lawn Bowls Championships, held late last year.
But as I have stated, there are 2 lines of thought...No one is right or wrong....that is called a conundrum; and I guess that is what this is...no right or wrong answer. Just a matter of choice. grin
But I will leave you with this to ponder on;

bonnar_bloke ,here is some info, that you might find of interest.This is written by a turf expert that prepares all the championship golf courses in the USA.

Myth: You must have contact between cylinder and bedknife.

Fact: �You do not need contact between the reel and bedknife to cut turf grass. Contact between the reel and bedknife will generate heat which will have many effects on not only the turf grass, but also on the traction unit. The heat generated between the reel and bedknife will tinge the leaf blade. Also that heat can cause the bedknife to expand which will tighten the cutting unit up even more. The tighter the reel - bedknife contact, the more strain this puts on the traction unit which can cause hydraulic hose failure and premature failure of the hydraulic system�.

Contact between cylinder and bedknife causes drag requiring greater effort to turn the reel and in turn this greater effort has an adverse effect on drivelines and engines. This drag also leads to rapid wear and loss of sharp edges, as well as a poor quality of cut. With contact you have the undesirable �scissor� action instead of the desired �scything� action. It is the scissor action which damages the turf plant and can prolong the healing process.

Myth: New bedknives are �true� and don�t require grinding.

Fact: �New bedknives are certainly not true coming from the factory. Every bedknife that gets installed on a bed bar needs to be ground properly in order to achieve a consistent quality of cut. The bedknife is the single most important factor in achieving a great quality of cut. The bedknife�s job is to position the grass before the reel blade cuts it. Depending on where the position is will depend on how clean and consistent your turfs after cut appearance will look.

Bedknives will take the shape of the existing bed bar once tightened. By grinding the bed knife properly it will give you a smooth surface that you will then align to a reel that has been ground to a true cylinder. Once this is complete you will have 2 perfectly aligned surfaces that can achieve the quality of cut that everyone is looking for. It is very important that the bed knife is ground to its proper angle (manufacturer�s recommendations) in order to maintain high quality turf grass.

bonnar_bloke, congrats on your first post, I hope it will not be you're last and most of all, :welcome: to the OutdoorKing forum. grin
cheers2


Hi Deejay,

I must admit that issue about blade contact seems to be rather conflicting as I was just sent scans of an Instruction Manual for a Diplomat and it clearly states that the reel and knifebed blade must have very light contact to keep the surfaces sharp and it also refers to the action being the same as a pair of scissors.

I will say that I have trialled both methods, contact and no contact and in all fairness I found that the contact method gives a much cleaner cut. These are just my observations I will add.

As you suggested it is rather a conundrum and I can see both sides of the discussion, a healthy one at that.

Must admit I just love this forum and it shows that I'm not the only one that loves these ol' girls and proud to use them when all my neighbours are out there striding around with their new Hondas and Chondas.

Cheers,
BB


I live a 24 Hour lifestyle, but every now and again I seem to fall asleep, well at least that's what my wife tells me.
Joined: Nov 2013
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Forum Historian
[Linked Image]

These forums do not endorse any setting procedure not stated by the manufacturer.
Scott Bonnar recommended slight contact for the Model 45.
This is therefore what we recommend.

[Linked Image]
This topic is now Locked [some time since previous post].


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