OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Restoring, Customising and Modifying Unusual Customisation Projects My Victa 18 Special Coffee Table Project

Hi to All, The coffee table project is underway at last!

Well, have just completed the strip down of the chassis, not as easy as I thought due to some corrosion between the alloy and steel bolts....but with the help of WD40 and plenty of patience, I got there in the end.
Here is a 'before' pic...

Here's a few after dis-assembly...
The base in great overall condition, no holes or cracks

Below; base, cowling and recoil starter....that needs the 'T' handle

Below; axles, exhaust plate and engine with head removed.

Worn axles...will need work



Engine...Light surface rust in bore, no lip, no piston movement or scoring...looks good!!

Box of assorted parts for cleaning...

Below; severe corrosion of left hand front axle clamp...cracking evident and the 'U' moulding is fused inside...

Well that's it so far....Off to the blasters to get the base, handles, cowling and recoil done...

Oh....I almost forgot...for Ty's and others Victa Serial Number records...the engine number is: AA14992 with the lower crankcase number: 6.... Victa 125. But....it has been fitted new with an earlier engine.
It has some parts left over from the Model 4 Automatic; (axle housing extensions) this makes it a Model 5, Series 1 machine.

When I first got it, I couldn't work out why it would only turn over so far before stopping, somehow for whatever reason someone had put a 1/4 inch socket in through the spark plug hole and left it there. the bore was worse than that before, I cleaned it up a little and hosed it down pretty thoroughly with WD 40.

After that, I put it up the back for a good 8 months or so and now Darryl has it!

Yeah Joe, the bore looks good now Joe, but for now it will be a non-runner....and serve as a coffee table...
Di has christened it "Mervyn"

Maybe you should just have it like my coffee table. Mine doesn't even have a piston in it, as it has a snapped conrod. Also it's not like it needs to mow any lawns at all. Grass doesn't grow inside the house.

Hi Jeffrey, yes mate you're right there, it will just be a coffee table for now...but it's nice to know that down the track it could be put in working order if needs be...I will lightly lubricate it all thoroughly before I mothball it.

Yeah I suppose that would be good.I've never had to worry about that as I know my coffee table engine is dead.

I know what you mean, I have the barrel and head off for cleaning and find that the fly wheel appears almost fused to the shaft....I won't even try to get it off....so it looks like this one is dead as well!!
RIP!!
Anyone for coffee??

If in doubt get a bigger hammer. lol

I have a puller made for it I will call you and come over for a few drinkies in the next week or so and get R done

Hi Deejay , don't give up on the flywheel , they come off easy with a puller , just put a few drops of Penetrene on the thread and let soak 'til Joe comes over, sometimes they come off with a bit of leverage (screwdrivers) on each side.

Hi Joe, you are a legend...looking forward to that!!

Hi Alan, thanks mate for that....I have got it soaking with WD40, did that yesterday....I haven't got Penetrene...will WD do the same job? The engine has quite a bit of built up crud around it...if I can get it all apart, I think it will make cleaning a lot easier.

BTW....there is a PM there for you.

I tend to find penetrene much more effective than WD, but it can be tricky to find stockists.

Theres one mob I found in Canberra with it, If you like, when I do this VIC trip soon, i can stop by and visit on the return, and give you a can you can try out for yourself.

You could call it a Christmas present

You can get Penetrene from Repco. There may be other chains that sell it. (I like it too, but I resent the price.)

I did not realise repco had it, do they sell the liquid packs, or just the aerosol cans.

I find the liquid packs more cost effective, you just need to get a decent refillable spray bottle.

I've only ever used liquid packs, Ty. That's what I've bought from Repco.

Sorry I wouldn't buy anything from Repco to [Censored] expensive.After all we all know what Repco stands for.Don't ask if you don't know I wouldn't be able to type it on here,it does contain some strong language.

Hi Ty, and thanks for the offer mate. I have got it soaking with a 3 in one oil....I states that it oils, cleans and penetrates...I won't attempt to remove the flywheel till Joe arrives with the puller....
If you can grab me some Penetrene, just let me know and I'll send you some cash by direct debit...
Thanks again Ty...

Just an update... I just scored some hubcaps and a fuel tank sticker from fleaBay, just saving some pennies for some wheels for it, from the online store....

Hi to All,
Just an update, with many thanks to Bruce, I now have new wheels. A big thanks to Joe Carroll who came over from Leeton with his flywheel puller and the flywheel came off without a hitch. We removed the electrics (all surprisingly in good shape) the bottom plate and then disassembled the crankcase.

Now the cleaning has started; the base, handles, brackets, cowling and tank are at the blasters and will be primed as soon as the blasting is complete.
I have commenced cleaning of the alloy parts with the crankcase first on the agenda.
I gave them a good soaking in Kenco degreaser, which did a good job...for aluminium and alloys, it has to be diluted 1 part degreaser to 2 parts water.
Plenty more parts to do....Here's some pics...


Ahh well, back to it!!

Looks like the Victoria trip might not be till Australia day, if you want what I have here for you before then, PM me, and I will arrange a trip so you can keep moving with this one Darryl!

Hi Ty, no probs mate, I have just had the chassis, cowling, tank, handles and sundry fittings blasted and are now ready to be primed....I am busy on the alloy work at present.

Have now got a new rubber rectangular spark plug grommet, plug lead and pristine Victa 'smiley-face' fuel cap. I also have got a complete set of new gaskets, and have ground off the welds and removed the 4 worn stub axles, from the front and rear axles. I will now have to get a length of 12.7mm mild bright steel and fabricate some new stubs for them, and get 'em welded in place.

Just an update, here are a couple of pics with the completed flywheel and coil plate, fuel cap, HT lead and gasket set....all coming along slowly.

Thanks for looking,

I have seen that way of packing before on the gasket set, your probably using one of my suppliers

Hi Joe, I don't know mate, I got them from the Online Store right here.....
Here's what I've been up to over the weekend.

I thought this was an early machine, it's got the threaded hole blanked off for the cable to the top of the carby that would have been for the "Predicta" set up for the model 4 Automatic....here's more finished....the barrel needs its coat of gloss black!






Thanks for looking!!

Update...cleaned all brassware for the carby and re-assembled, fuel tap refurbished and completed and gloss black on the barrel, throttle polished...Here's some pics...





Just the little fiddly bits to go now, and back together it goes!!
Thanks for looking.

It looks like you are doing the thing no-holds-barred, Deejay, it should end up a real work of art. Who is going to get the job of dusting it and polishing the brass regularly?

Many years ago I knew a guy with an old Invicta, possibly 1930s. He had occasion to remove the headlining at one point and found that the aluminium hardware that held the roof down had all been hand-buffed when the car was built, so it would look nice for the occasional motor-trimmer who restored the head-lining when the car eventually needed it. I can't help thinking your fine finish on the internal float-bowl parts is a similar sort of concept.

Hi grumpy and thanks for your comments..re: the brassware...all external brass will have a clear coat applied so polishing will be not required for a few years, and the internals will be ready if ever the machine needs to run again. I guess I will have to dust it now and again, as per all furniture, and the glass top cleaned regularly.

Re: cleaning the brassware....I found a great method on the net that works....In a suitable large glass bottle place 3 tablespoons of salt and 2-3 cups of brown vinegar...shake well to dissolve the salt and place the brass into the solution. Swill the parts around in the solution and leave overnight....Result clean brass!!
If a polished surface is required, "Brasso" is the go!

Hi Darryl , looking good , all shiny .
Just a couple of questions , are all those silver engine and carby parts polished or painted ?
Is that fuel tap the correct one ?
Keep up the good work , will be nice to see it finished , how is the frame coming along ?
Cheers Al

Excellent looking pieces Deejay.The table will look nice when finished.
That silvery paint looks very much like the "Chrome" spray in cans I use for similar objects as on stationary engines, cream separators and very soon a Victa New Utility.
But probably is something different.
Stationary:)

Hi to Al and Stationary, and thanks for the kind comments.
To answer your questions, Al, yes, the alloy bright-work is painted; but I don't want to mislead any member to think that this is just an easy solution....A lot of elbow grease required, plus, I had the advice and help from an ardent Manly supporter who's restored many a fine Victa.

Firstly, the parts have to be very thoroughly cleaned and de-greased, then very fine wet and dry to remove any imperfections in the metal; cleaned with 'Prepsol" to remove any traces of contamination, then primed (Fiddly Bits grey primer), wait till thoroughly dry (to allow any residual solvents to be released) and finally topcoat with Auto One "Wheel Silver" (which is Stationary a much different silver than the spray 'chrome'...in the flesh, it is more subtle in colour and looks like polished alloy)
As a very wise man once said..."It's all in the preparation of the substrate"..(the article being painted)

Re: the fuel tap Al, I removed that from the tank that was firmly attached to the cowling that was on the mower when I received it, mate...
The machine appears to be a very early Model 5 and has a "5" with a dash, embossed on the carby, which from my research indicates it is a Model 4 Auto (Predicta) carby with the second cable blanked off.
Why do you ask about the fuel tap, Al....is there something I don't know??

Re: the frame Al, it has been blasted to remove all traces of rust and paint, primed, and is being painted later today....Can't wait to see it completed now.....Will have pics soon....

To sum up, the reason I have painted the bright-work is that this machine is for display as a coffee table, and a you would know, alloy corrodes and discolours...after 50 odd years, this machines bright-work was fairly stained and discoloured...I didn't want that to happen again, especially now it will be a piece of furniture!!

Hi to All, well coming down the home straight now.
Just a couple of questions, does anybody know where I can source a new (or good second hand) throttle cable from, and also the clips that attach it to the handles?
Thanks guys,

Why I asked about fuel tap is that I always associated that type of tap ( 90 degree ) with utilities / sheerlines etc. , you are most likely right in using it , as I have said before , I don't know the technicalities . Looking forward to seeing the colour , Cheers Al

Thanks for that info Al, I have since had a close look at Model 5's, and I think you are correct....Joe Carroll kindly gave me another tank when he was here last and it was fitted with the vertical flow tap....I gave it the salt and vinegar trick and it cleaned up nicely...

Unfortunately it is missing the brass slide retaining screw, and the screw in the other tap seems to be seized and I don't wish to break it trying to get it out....will try and find another, mate.
Here's some pics...



Will have the pics of the base,cowling, etc up soon...

***UPDATE***
I used some Penetrene on the brass screw in the 90 degree fuel tap and safely removed it...it fitted the other tap perfectly and have fitted the fuel filter as well. I will use this tap on the project, as I agree with Al, this is the one that seems to be fitted to the Model 5 Specials.

Well here we are, the frame is painted...just have to do the red on the Victa logo and the '18'....I hope you like the colour. it looks great in the 'flesh'....Here are some pics...Tadaaaa!!



Thanks for looking,

Darryl, that table is going to come up great! I quite like the colour you have chosen, does it look the same stormy metalic blue in real life?

I can't wait to see the final result mate, congrats!!!

Good stuff, looking forward to seeing it on monday!

Yes Ty, it has hints of blue and purple and the metallic really shines through depending on the angle you look at it...sort of like a pearl finish...it is an adaption of 'midnight blue'.
Also Ty, would you have a spare one of the little U shaped metal collars that sit under and over the axle before the housing bolts down...I just discovered one is missing. I don't know what you call them...a primitive bearing of sorts I guess.

Hi Darryl , that colour looks great , now to throw a cat among the pidgeons , do you really have to paint the victa/18 red ? you say the paint has hints of blue and purple .
As this is not a resto back to original , I personally would be tempted to paint it other than red , would look better , IMHO , silver or medium/light blue , or a blueish silver pearl.
One more point to ponder , are you going to paint the lightning bolt ? , it is not normally painted ( a little known fact ) , but maybe it would look nice painted in your situation .
Well young fella , sorry to throw the cat in ,but this might give you something more to think about .
Cheers Al

Hi Al, you must have been reading my mail...I was just sitting outside (bloody hot here ) and thinking to myself...'Do I really have to paint the logos red?' I'm with you all the way and think that light blue or silver would look much better; and as it is for (non-original) display purposes, I might paint the lightning bolt as well, as you suggest!!
Thanks for your kind comments Al, it seems we are on the same wavelength.

Hi Darryl , just noticed one other thing that needs commenting on , one of the handle bar brackets seems to have been drilled as so many were , hope that this is the top one and will not be seen when bars are folded , maybe it should have been nikkied up prior to painting .
Hope I'm not being too picky . Al

Hi Al, all is good mate, Joe Carroll kindly gave me that second bracket that is not drilled, that's the top one, so you won't see the hole in the lower, as you have said. (there going on backwards, as is the handle badge, so all will look correct, with the handle folded)
Well spotted, Al.

Another tip, one that Jeffrey mentioned to me when he was talking about his table, cut the air hose down, and mount the choke to the lower section (non folding U-bar) of the handle bars.

If you have the full length hose and high mounted choke, the big bent and folded hose ruins the picture.

The part you need for the height adjuster (the U-shaped block) is actually there to help prevent the wheels slipping while running and to help keep it all aligned, I should have one here somewhere you can have.

You are a double legend Ty, I have been hoping that blumbly would comment, as this is his idea that I have adopted...and what a great idea it is!!
I think that Meryn V. Richardson has been looking over my shoulder as I've gone along, everything has gone to plan and I;m so happy to be coming down the home straight.
Can't wait to have it all together...but I have to wait patiently until the paint hardens...
Cheers Ty.

Hi Ty, mate I have been through all the stuff I have dismantled from the old girl and can only find one (1) other of the 'U' shaped blocks....I know one disappeared with the grit blasting, it was seized into the base through corrosion, its mate is still seized into the corresponding upper housing, so I may be missing 2...Do you know how many there are supposed to be in a Model 5 Special? I suspect 4, 2 in each of the front and rear smaller housings, is that correct?

***Update***
Have fitted the tank cowling rubbers; fitted the tank and fuel tap, made some screws for the recoil and trial fitted it to the cowl....Put the sticker on the tank as well as the tank cap with the smiley face....



Thanks for looking.

*** Update***
Well here is "Mervyn" the coffee table,I need to put some paint on the Victa logo, supply and fit the throttle control and cable, cable clips and some fuel line on; the snorkel and air filter and it's all over bar for the axles, which Ty is going to kindly supply for the project....a long day, but all went together exceedingly well.

Now for a nice cold Coopers Sparkling Ale!!






Hope you enjoy! I can't believe its nearly finished...

looks excellent mate as per our phone conversation!

Hi to All, Thanks Joe for your kind comments...
Well this morning, I made up a couple of dome-head screws for the side-skirt attachment point ...and the Victa logo is now silver...

Thanks for looking,

Coming alone well Deejay,not sure about the colour myself,but hey it's a show piece.Now these pieces for the axles you are after.Are they the ones that go inside the adjuster housing under the spring?If they are you will only need 2 of them.I'm only asking as I know Ty will only ask me if I have any.If it's what I'm thinking then I may have some here.

Hi Jeffrey, If I can ask you, is there only one of the blocks in each of the small housings under the spring and one underneath the axle?....there was one seized in the base on the front right hand side that they removed during blasting.
To tell you the truth I didn't know there was a spring under there...the top housing on mine still has the block seized in... I may need second hand housing and block and spring...
Here's a pic...

Pretty stuffed, block seized solid, cracked as well.
Top housing is good tho..

I have a box here with 2 small housings, I'll check to make sure the springs are in it.

I have some axles aside for you, I'll make sure to get photo's of them up for you sson, along with the other parts I have here for you.

Hi Ty, thanks a million, mate...that will complete the project with just the snorkel and throttle to go...can't wait to see it back on its wheels...Joe and I have had a good day...recoil starter all complete and working like a bought one!!

The Scotty 45 has a sharpened cylinder reel and bottom blade grind...all re-installed and videoed ready for Joe to edit and upload....you should see it cutting the lawn...just perfect!!
Thanks again Ty, can't wait to meet you in Wagga!

There is only one in each housing.It is very common in seizing up.The way I get them free is to drop the hole thing in old sump oil and leave it for 2 to 3 days.Then with screw driver just to help it out.I have save many that way.Yes there should be a spring,you may find that the one that has seized may have stuffed the spring.It had in 2 of the ones I saved.See how you go.If you need more advice from me just ask.Good luck man.

Deejay, thats bl00dy brilliant!! a fine piece of furniture

I must say it's coming along beautifully. I'm no authority on these, so I'm just sitting back and watching your progress. Awesome. I love that colour scheme.

Thanks Jeffrey, yeah mate, the one with the block seized in it has cracked the housing and welded itself in there (see previous pics) and is completely stuffed!...but at least the other block, housing and spring are all OK...
Thanks for your advice mate...

To Redeye and Greg, thanks for your kind comments, all coming along now nicely...Joe Carroll kindly supplied some rope and rewound and re-assembled the recoil starter yesterday and now it is installed on the machine...A big thankyou to Alwil for supplying the correct rubber pull-handle for it.

Here is your machine the day I got it from the swap meet.

Well in most respects it looks better now, but it no longer has a spare wheel. From the amount of wheel trouble Victas have, perhaps it should have a mounting for a spare on the right side of the base, in that huge empty space with the useless mounting for a non-existent accessory. Perhaps your project has potential for upgrades, Deejay.

So I take it you need that axle housing as well then?

Grumpy...I can't believe it....are you suggesting "Tenants Improvements"....BTW, mine doesn't have its wheels on yet, and to my eye, in all respects, it looks better than it did when it arrived....

The answer is a definite yes to that, Jeffery, with my thanks if you have one spare...don't forget they are the Model 4 Auto housings with the overhang for the flap attachment, which are probably rarer....I guess I could have done this project 2 ways ...the easy...just cosmetic...or...as I have chosen to do, make it the best I can within my limited budget....I am extremely happy with it thus far...it's not meant to be original....it's the base for a coffee table....but could be a going concern with a couple of seals, a barrel hone and a new piston!
Thanks again for you advice, Jeffery and your help.

No question it looks better Deejay. The colour scheme looks classy but for some reason it reminds me of a Canberra bomber rather than an early Victa.
(I think I've seen a Martin B57 painted up like that when it was taken over by the US weather service - the crew reportedly called it the Batplane.) I'm not criticising, it happens I like Canberra bombers a lot. Here's an Australian one:


US version (same plane, slightly different model):


(Pictures from wikipedia).

Grumpy, As a matter of fact when I was in the RAAF I worked for a time at No. 3 Aircraft Depot (3AD) at RAAF Base Amberley (Ipswich QLD) in the Canberra hangar as a framie fitter on these beasts....Strange cattle a Canberra....all nuts, bolts etc were British Association...1BA, 2 BA, 10BA..etc they were made by English Electric PTY. LTD, and a very sturdy airframe and a great workhorse and the replacement at the time for the AVRO Lincoln (made in OZ by GAF...Government Aircraft Factory)... Avro had a link to one of your relly's...Harry Hawker.

Thanks Deejay, I don't personally know of a link between Avro and Harry Hawker, but there may have been one. Harry only lived about a year after H. G. Hawker Engineering was formed, following the liquidation of Sopwith Aviation in 1920. Tommy Sopwith and Harry were both on the board, and of course the new company did very well indeed after Harry's death in a test flight on 12 July 1921. A.V. Roe left Avro in 1928, and Avro itself was finally "absorbed into" Hawker Siddley in 1963 - the Avro name was abolished at that point. I suppose it is a matter of personal opinion whether the high point for Avro was the Lancaster bomber of WW2, or the Vulcan bomber of the nuclear period. I like the Vulcan, it was the only V-bomber that seemed like a world-leading design to me. Here are some early Vulcans at Farnborough in 1953 (picture from wikipedia):

Thanks for that grumpy...I may have been mistaken and confused Harry with Bert Hinkler..but I could have sworn that Harry had something to do with a handling problem with A V Roe's "Baby" aircraft....a lot of those guys involved in aviation in the great war era were mates, so I am led to believe.
OOps! we've gone off topic again....Sorry!

So you only need one.Done if you need any others let me know.I have a few spares here.Just so you know they are the easiest ones to find.They are more common.The ones that don't have the flap brackets.They are the harder ones to find.Not that hard but there is less of them.So do you need it before our trip your way,or can it wait till then? Let me know which way you want to go.

Hi Jeffrey, and many thanks for that, I didn't think I'd get a replacement. Yes mate, just need the housing and the 'U'block and spring.

The project is now stalled; just waiting for TY to get back to me re the axles, which is all I need (plus the housing and 'U' block, snorkel and air filter of course). Ty has said he will post some photos of the axles...

I am tempted to see if I could get the axles and the housing, snorkel etc. posted to me so I can complete the project. I will gladly pay the postage. The glass is cut, edges polished and is ready to go.
Do you guys know when you're heading this way?

I have a funny feeling the axles Ty was talking about was a set I have,as I remember him asking me if I had some.When I get back home I'll have a talk to him.As I'm currently in Batemans Bay for the next couple of days.I will see Ty when I get home and work out what he was talking about,as I'm not sure he has any model 5 axles.I will get back to you on that.

Thanks Jeffrey, I would like to get the project completed before I travel to Brisbane for my Dad's 95th birthday bash, and I all need is the parts to finish...
Glad to hear you're on the mend, and hope to meet you soon.

I have a full set of Axles aside here, they come from an old model five base i forgot that I disassembled a few years back, put all the parts in a box and only uncovered them while unpacking

I'll bring them, and the other M5 parts i have about on Thursday.

(I have the u-blocks too, plus the springs i think, and a bunch of Misc. Other)

Thanks a million Ty, thanks for the phone call, and its great to be meeting you on Thursday mate.
I gave Joe a ring last night and let him know you are coming over...he's gonna try to get here as well after work. Will have some 'New' on ice!

Ty I will pm you when I get home today with a proposition....

**UPDATE**
Hi to All, thanks to Ty who arrived yesterday with the axles and the front axle housing and 'U' block very kindly donated by Blumbly....after de-greasing, cleaning, priming and painting....they have been successfully installed back on the old girl and finally, it is back on its wheels!
Here's some pics....

Now you'll probably scratch that magnificent paint when you install the props to hold up the glass top.

I hope not....as it happens I don't have supports.... I made up a bracket that attaches to the upper right hand side of the fuel tank (as the tank was corroded inside and would not be used on a running mower) that supports the upper handle in the horizontal and level plane.
The glass is smoked and looks a lot darker in the pics...you can see the machine clearly through it...
Here's some pics...





Here it was when it arrived in Wagga Wagga...

We've come along way since then!!

It looks really great, Deejay, I hope the table top is rigid enough at the end furthest from the handle supports though.

Yes it's quite rigid grumpy, but I don't expect anyone to sit on it....after all, it is a coffee table. I just didn't want the supports to ruin the 'look', if you know what I mean...the handle clamps have locked up exceedingly well.

If you can put a 2 kg Christmas cake and half a dozen pints of beer on the end of the table without it deflecting or feeling springy, Deejay, it sounds like a success. It certainly looks outstanding.

Thanks grumpy, just the throttle cable, snorkel and air-filter to go, and its all finished...been loads of fun and a bit of learning curve as well.
Mmmm....what am going to do now???

That's easy Deejay, you need to make the world's first reel mower coffee table. I visualise an ATCO, for its chunky look and rigid handlebars (besides, I'm kind of an ATCO guy).

Hi grumpy....I think that Di would object to more than 1 mower in the lounge room....
But here's a thought....an unusual Bar-B-Que....



I can visualise Fords, Holdens, Valiants, Cortinas etc...

I think it would get all smeared and scratched pretty quickly if it was where I live Deejay. It only works as a neat project if you keep it looking immaculate. That is why barbeques tend to be matt black. I agree it looks great though, if you never use it, and polish it regularly. How about a D-type, rather than those boring production cars? Or maybe a Nessmobile, or a Model A, in the traditional dull black, with the big folding bonnet used to cover up the cooking kit?

Looks good deejay.You must use different glass than me.Besides it being tinted.I also tried it to start without brackets for the handles.It didn't work.I have also found as I have over time had two sheets of glass broken,that I needed a sheet that is 8mm thick.I now know that was strong enough as earlier in the year I had a 40inch 42kg plasma TV fall onto the coffee table.All it did was break the suction cups off.Killed the TV though.So good luck without the handle brackets.Also I guess with the weight of 8mm thick glass I couldn't do it without the handle braces now.I started with 5mm thick glass,even just putting a coffee mug down the wrong way was enough to smash the glass.

Looking Good Darryl,

I was curious as to how the tinted glass would look, and I quite like it!

That colour really looks great in person, and now that Elly is hinting for a Victa coffee table around here, I'll need to pick my colour.

Hope your Idea for the bracket free handle support works, I might have a few ideas of my own for that, I guess we will see when the experiments begin.

Hi Blumbly, I measured my glass and it is 8.3mm thick tinted plate glass. It is heavy, and I am concerned that over time it may crack the handle castings....I think I may have to use some support at the front...I have an idea that may do the job, without detracting from the 'look'.
Thanks again for your comments mate, and of course, the front housing and block for the axle. I think it all came together really well, just a few small bits to go...

Hi Ty, I must admit I think I was a little ambitious in thinking I could get away with no front support brackets...there's been no probs with it so far...but I do feel that I am putting a lot of faith in the integrity of the alloy handle brackets plus my tank mod....but if you read my reply to Jeffery, I have an idea which may solve the prob.
Many thanks once again for the axles. Glad to see you got home safe and it was great to finally meet you in person, Ty.