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Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 346
Likes: 3
Apprentice level 4
I've got a job replacing the ignition switch on a Toro ride on. I got the new switch from Outdoorking. Same number of terminals, 6. The problem is that it dosen't work the same as the original. With both connectors attached, the engine starts when the key is turned to 'ON'. Then when you turn it to off, the engine keeps running.

I've attached a labelled pic of the two switches. Bruce was kind enough to give me the legend for the new switch, thanks Bruce, however the old switch has no markings, but I have labelled the terminals with the wiring colours.

Thanks ANYONE!!!![Linked Image]

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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,362
Likes: 10
Administrator - Master Technician
****
Hi Greg, mate I think you would need a wiring diagram to sort this one out...or an Auto Electrician....trouble is, the new switch is not identical to the old one...I'm sure it will do the job, its just a matter of figuring out which wire goes where. The terminal that contacts the switch body may be to earth...but then again, maybe not.
cheers2


Please do not PM me asking for support. Please post your questions in the appropriate forums, as the replies it may receive may help all members, not just the individual member.
Kindest Regards, Darryl grin


Joined: May 2011
Posts: 2,738
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Forum Historian
****
If we can at least find a toro 6 blade switch diagram, we might be able to start getting an idea what is going on.

Greg, do you own a continuity tester, or multimeter?

Last edited by Mr Davis; 03/09/11 09:27 AM.

Cheers
Ty

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Joined: May 2011
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That would also be a good help, and also, could you let us know what model toro this is, if we can find the right wiring diagram for your toro, and compare it to the diagram from Bruce, we can see what is in the wrong place!


Cheers
Ty

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Joined: Jan 2009
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Pushrod Honda preferrer
***
If I don't have a wiring diagram, and it worked before the switch replacement, I normally use a continuity tester on the old one, and then find the corresponding terminal connections on the new switch. Essentially, you just draw a contact diagram for the old one, and find the terminals on the new one that have the same contacts. It only takes a minute or two. I usually use a multimeter because that's what I'm used to using, but when necessary I use a torch battery and a globe. There are lots of options.

Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 346
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Apprentice level 4
Wow, thank you everyone!! Awesome, Yes, I have a multimeter, so I might just spend a bit of time to sort it out. I'll get there, after all, I'm the intelligent one, not the switch. Well I like to think so anyway........ hahaha

Cheers again to you all!! Thanks heaps.

Joined: May 2011
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Greg, call it the long way around, but if you could perhaps (an i get this would take a bit of time) tell us the continuity pattern of the new switch, in each position, and you machines model number, and rough age.

With this info, I will be able to tell you how to wire the new switch.

To do so, you will need to test the continuity of each possible combination of blades, for each position of the switch. at a glance, i make that out to be 15 combinations for each key position.

M-R
M-S
M-B
M-A
R-S
R-B
R-A
S-B
S-A
B-A
EARTH-M
EARTH-R
EARTH-S
EARTH-B
EARTH-A

I know this is allot of testing, but if you get really stuck, tell me the continuity of each of the above combinations (on/off, or close/open) foe each key position, then tell me the model of your mower, and i can tell you what to do.

Hopefully, you find an easier way, but I'm here as a backup if you need it!


Cheers
Ty

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Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 346
Likes: 3
Apprentice level 4
Thanks again everyone.
Here's all the circuit stats of the new switch.

Key in OFF position
M-R OPEN
M-S OPEN
M-B OPEN
M-A CLOSED
R-S OPEN
R-B OPEN
R-A OPEN
S-B OPEN
S-A OPEN
B-A OPEN
EARTH-M CLOSED
EARTH-R OPEN
EARTH-S OPEN
EARTH-B OPEN
EARTH-A CLOSED

Key in ON position
M-R OPEN
M-S OPEN
M-B OPEN
M-A OPEN
R-S OPEN
R-B CLOSED
R-A CLOSED
S-B OPEN
S-A OPEN
B-A CLOSED
EARTH-M OPEN
EARTH-R OPEN
EARTH-S OPEN
EARTH-B OPEN
EARTH-A OPEN

Key in START position
M-R OPEN
M-S OPEN
M-B OPEN
M-A OPEN
R-S OPEN
R-B OPEN
R-A OPEN
S-B CLOSED
S-A OPEN
B-A OPEN
EARTH-M OPEN
EARTH-R OPEN
EARTH-S OPEN
EARTH-B OPEN
EARTH-A OPEN

I'm hunting the wiring diagram now.

Cheers.

Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 6,926
Likes: 10
Pushrod Honda preferrer
***
Greg, if you ultimately can't find the wiring diagram, you can just match those contact configurations with your old switch. You just need to find a contact on the old one, that gives the same outcomes for every switch position as the new one. Then you can give that contact on the new one, the name it had on the old one.

Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 346
Likes: 3
Apprentice level 4
Thanks all, I'm heading out to have another go at it today, I'll let you know what I come up with. I'll just have to bluff my way past the customer to make him think I have the answer. I just hope that I did need to buy the dearer switch of the two available, somehow I dont think so........ The old switch doesn't have a ground terminal like the new one, and to me, thats the main difference. Sort of makes me look incompetent!

Last edited by Greg Holmes; 29/08/11 01:42 AM.
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 346
Likes: 3
Apprentice level 4
Here's an update for the archives.. I got it to work.

The 'S' terminal goes to Orange.
The 'A' terminal goes to Yellow.
The 'B' terminal goes to Red.
The 'G' terminal goes to earth.
The 'M' and 'R' terminals go to the Double Pink and Purple, in a crossover bridge.

It's the only way I could get it to work. Starts, stops, and charges, however the seat switch is no longer operational for some reason. Luckily the customer likes it like that!


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