OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Engines Questions On Victa Two Stroke Engines Victa Bronco spark problems

Hi all,

I have a Victa Bronco 2 stroke mower that works intermitently.
I believe I have tracked the problem to a stuffed coil.
I just need some assistance in Identifying which coil is the correct one to order.
I have looked at the post "identifying your 2 stroke" and believe that I have a mower that looks like the first one listed, as it has a side mounted spark plug and square muffler.

Please I need some assistance.

The victa bronco from meory was a red mower, with red catcherflap and catcher (from factory, they may have been changed) Anyhow they originally had the external ignition module coil.

However before replacing the coil as they are rather expensive, it could be worth making sure the ignition module is earthed well, kill wire leads are not touching together, and trying another ignition module before repalcing the coil.

I have seen the coils fail before but its pretty uncommon, its usually some of the other reasons I have listed.

joe.

Thanks for the quick answer joe.

So I should be pulling the motor off the frame and have a look, or what?

The problem is no spark at the spark plug.
Mower has recently had a new spark plug fitted, but the lead from the coil to the spark plug is broken, so I had to dodge it up. but as I previously said i have a great deal of trouble starting it.

When I do get it started, it only seems to go after I have removed the connection and replaced it, cleaned the plug, etc.

And yes it is the red mower, with a white cover and red catcher.

Thanks.

Ok, since the ignition lead has been repaired, I would be changing it for a new or second hand coil, unless the repair is perfectly insulated, and the replacement part of lead made from the right material they never run right.

To get at the coil, you simply, drain the fuel tank, remove the blade plate and 4 bolts holding the engine on.

After that the flywheel should have tin cover over it which just comes off, under there you will find the coil.

Thanks Joe.

Should I still replace the ignition module as well?

Can I order the parts through you or should I wait until I can see the actual coil to make sure I order the right one?

Scott.

I'm not sure if I would rush off to buy another coil yet. I recently repaired a broken high tension lead on a Briggs. I stripped about 5 mls off each end and then soldered the wires together. Then I used a hot melt glue gun to build up the insulation material to the same thickness as the rest of the lead then added insulation tape over that. It sounds bodgy and dodgy but works perfectly. Also sometimes it's hard to see if you've got spark because of poor earthing. You can make a coil tester by joining (soldering) a piece of wire (I used 2 ml thick) to an alligator clip at each end. Attach one end of the wire to the spark plug gap and the other to the engine block. Cap the plug to the high tension lead and pull normally. This way you can get a good view of the spark plug and have it well earthed to the mower.

Sparker's method can also be strengthened a bit more if you have some heat shrink tubing around, to fit over the hot-melt glue!

ive found info somewhere to make a spark tester, use a piece of timber with 2 nails in it bend the nails over so the ends are a couple mm apart,
attach wire to each nail with alligator clips on the ends, attach one end to the coil lead and the other to good earth point [somewhere on the head of mower is good] and pull the cord it is good to leave the nails so that they can be turned to be either closer together or further apart then by moving them you can find out just how good the spark is and how far it will jump. best to do this test in a dark place or at night

ive lost my one but ill make another this coming weekend and start a new topic about it and take some photos of the building process.

I just rig up a known good spark plug.

Solder a wire to the thread, and pop an alligator clip to the other end, then cut the side post of with some wire cutters, so that the spark has to jump all the way to the outer rim.

I'll get a photo of the finished product up when i can.

You can also solder a medium alligator clip straight onto the thread.

Mr. Davis, maybe your spark plug tester should go into the "tricks of the trade" thread.

That area is more for tricks regarding cleaning & painting, Etc. And other aesthetic points of restoration, as opposed to the mechanical repairs side.

Though i do agree it should have a place, I'll get some step-by-step photo's together, and find it a home.

Actually, a categorised repair thread or sticky (spark pugs, coils, pull starters etc) might be a good idea. I found a way to test a coil using a multi tester. The spark test is still a needed though. Here is the link:
How to test a small engine magneto

That could be an Idea, I'll discuss it with the other Mods.

I would suggest that, unlike tricks of the trade, this is something that should sit outside the rest0rations catagory, as it not only applies to those trying to restor a machine, but to anyone simply trying ti diagnose & repair faults.

I'll Let you know how it goes.

Back to the Original Question, How is it going so far scuba?

Have you decided to try and save the old coil, or are you going ahead with the relpacment?

Coils are not cheap. Even modules are well priced.

Definately pays to check that the module is well earthed. Replace the rivet with a bolt. Clean the contact surfaces.
Check that the HT lead is well insulated. I have had the power torque coils that have let water in where the lead goes into the coil. This causes intermittent spark issues.


Never trust a spark plug. Buy another, having spares around is not a bad thing and they are not expensive. I would also suggest an NGK plug rather than a CJ8.

I agree with Bob, If you were to take the coil off, and carfully repair the damage (Twist together, Solder, Fill with hot melt glue, And cover with about 1" of heatshrink tube) you should be able to get the insulation back up to scratch.

If the join of the wire and coil looks suspect, make sure its dry, and throw a little melt glue there too.

THe check the module is well grounded and secure (shouldnt move) and fit it all back together carfully, Taking note the flywheel air gap (cant recall it off the top of my head, but it should be stamped on your flywheel.

If you try this you could save a bit of money!

Hi Guys,
I've had a hectic week at work, and haven't had a chance to pull the mower of the frame yet. Been doing some big days as the Head Office just moved and we are finalizing the fitout.
Thanks for all your ideas, i'll let you know what I find out when I get to it.

Thanks.
Scubacrazy666