OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Walk Behind Lawn Mower Frames Question On Scott Bonnar Cylinder Mowers rust removal info

hi! all i have posted some pics and a few links relating to removing rust the EASY way i have had great success using this method saftey first and saftey always kind regards steve...


battery chargers

rust removal link info

Thanks for that Steve. A couple of points you might clarify if you would. First, you use the Lectric Washing Soda as electrolyte in a water bath, for electrolytic cleaning? Second, you use a standard battery charger as the source of electrical polarisation? What kind of battery charger - voltage, current rating, electrical design? What polarity for the part being derusted - positive or negative terminal of charger? How long do you run it for? How do you decide when to stop? Do you remove paint/wire brush the part before electrolysis?

Hi grumpy, thanks for that as well, I was asking myself the same questions, also in the plastic tub there appears to be 2 steel plates wired together; obviously the anode/cathode, but what guage is this?
Thanks to Steve for posting the info.

Deejay, I think the two fixed electrodes in the bath are connected together and have the same polarity, which is opposite to that of the part being cleaned. Their gauge doesn't matter unless or until they get eaten through. However there are practical details that are worked out from experience, and Steve obviously has that. I've used this technique years ago to remove rust and metal deposits from the bore of rifle barrels, but that is a specialised process - Steve's is more general.

hi grumpy /deejay to answer a few questions yes the lectric washing soda is used as the electrolyte the power is dc. the battery charger i use is a 24/12 volt 30 amp 120 grams of sodium carbonate in 60 odd ltrs of water the current can be raised by adding more sodium carbonate i generally get things bubbling away at 8 to 10 amps x12 volts sometimes i kick off with 10 amps at 24 volts and switch back to the lower setting an hour later to get the above s/b 45/14 chassis clean i gave it a blast with water and degreaser then over night at 10amps at 12 volts its trial and error this process produces hydrogen gas so its best not have it in a small enclosed area i personally undertake this process outside under cover with a common sense approach the pos+ anode goes to the plates u see in below pic and the neg- cathode goes to the piece to be cleaned best results are achieved by suspending the work piece as line of sight is preffered do not use stainless as your anode as it creates a cromium solution in the tank and its toxic after when the piece is removed from the bath i hose it down and clean/scrub it with scotch bright and dish washing liquid then i dry the piece with air compressor and spray ranex rustbuster over it leave for a minute and wipe off the excess them leave it outside for a few days hope this helps

Thanks Steve, that answers the questions I had thought of. Other members might have their own questions. Guys, if you want to know more about this, I suggest you ask Steve while you can. His restorations are the best I know of, and that kind of expertise is seldom accessible to the rest of us.

thank you grumpy! for your kind reply. to answer the question on paint removal that comes off in the bath/hose off after yep u can have your cup of tea while the hard work is done silently. it is important that the piece is sealed after as it will start to rust instantly the ranex rustbuster works great gloves goggles mask dedicated work area always link to bondall ranex rustbuster with pdf

i saw a really good setup on youtube where the bloke sealed up and used an old chest freezer, his power supply was a 24v one from an old photocopier mounted in a computer case.