OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Engines Questions On Victa Two Stroke Engines victa powermaster

hi once again i'm having trouble getting a powertorque to idle down, it has always been no trouble till now.the plastic hose from the decrompression valve to the carby has a restrictor in it. if this was blocked would it affect the idle,it was blocked. thanks

G'day mate,
it is very unlikerly that any thing to do with the decompressor is not letting it idle slowly unless there is a air leak.
the G4 carbys are very temperamental if they arnt assembled right. it could be something to do with the diaphragm springs at the back of the carby or the throttle cable position.
have you had the carby apart?
regards jay

You can temporarily eliminate the decompressor as a suspect by removing it and screwing a spark plug into the hole to close it off. That will make it difficult to pull the starter, but as a quick test, if that cures your idle problem, take a close look at the decompressor. If it makes no difference, reinstall the decompressor and look elsewhere. An air leak is a likely suspect, and on Powertorques those usually come from intake pipe or crankcase (i.e. underneath the starter) O ring leaks. Once you've eliminated the decompressor and the O rings, the carburetor seems the most likely problem. However so many people who work on G4 plastic carburetors end up cursing and rolling across the lawn biting themselves on the backside, it might be best to try the decompressor and O rings first.

thanks fellas, i finally got it to work, i ended putting 2 brass washers in the middle instead of one, i still dont know what the problem was and shouldnt have to do it i know, but as a last resort effort i have done this a few times now and its worked. cheers micka

micka, can you tell us what you put the brass washers in the middle of please? I haven't been able to follow what you have done here, and that means I don't know what was wrong. There are probably other people who don't know either. Thanks.

sorry grumpy i didnt explain myself too well, but i'll try. inside the main black carby housing after you have removed the diaphram, springs etc,you are left with i dont know if its called the govenor body or not, but its the large piece that the ball end of the throttle cable fits in. that is when you move the throttle lever the whole centre moves accordingly, when you disconnect the throttle cable, you can lift this piece out. when you do underneath is a small brass washer that slides onto the main housing.i had trouble one time and a bloke in a mower shop told me to add another washer, making it 2 instead of the 1, to slow the idle down. i have done this a few times as a last resort,like i say i dont understand how or why this is, but it has worked for me at times, may be its masking another problem, because if it has been ok you shouldnt have to do any thing like that.i would be interested if someone else does this to see what they think. like i say i dont understand really,but was in a fix at the time and tried it. probably about as good as i can explain grumpy, cheers mate

Thanks micka, that is clear now. I've seen the same issue and the same cure discussed on this site a year or so ago. I seem to recall that there is another solution that does not involve modifying the carburetor. You might be able to find the thread by searching. Otherwise, Bruce is the man if I recall correctly.

Hi Grumpy and Micka, It always amazes me the way our members come up with ways to fix a prob (ie. the brass washers)....I would have been tearing my hair out (the very little I have left Lol!) It seems that Victa carby's can be a little cantankerous......

I have pulled a couple of my carbys apart and never seen a washer,one of mine has a external (grey)nurelled wheel the size of a 10 cent coin where you can adjust the idling...ken

Ken best i can work out thats the G4 carb with the adjuster on it. Still the old full crank motor but with the plastic carb on it.

Theres also two different gray plastic throttle 'butterflies'. The early carb bodies must be deeper as the legs on a couple of the gray bits i have on the bench are taller.
I had been paying carefull attention to stripping a carb and cleaning it out and putting it back together so as not to mix and match bits. I was scraching the bottom of the barrel today and I searched high and low today looking for a washer. Out of about 10+ carbs i had 2 or 3 washers.

Ive got idles all over the place. I put a full crank motor together and it idles OK, almost stalls, so perhaps too low and revs up fine.

I have one power torqe that does what it should.

I had another that only had one rev speed, i found a washer and put that in and it made no difference. I put the steel plate back in on the digafram and that dropped the revs a bit. Then i fitted a lighter spring in the cover. Im still not happy with it, idle is a bit high still. Motor has new top crank seal and new inlet O-rings.

And ive got another PT that stuck on the one rev thing as well.


Any advice?? anyone?? its doing my head in.

Try changing the main jet and the poppet valve with its diaphram.wont hurt and good practice...ken

I worked it out. One carb had a short butterfly in it, needed the tall so it was like open throttle at idle. Fixed that.

Then the other motor it was the top crank seal.

Got another one thats the same with the crank seal issue. New seal and it was still leaking. Theres two different types of pull start, are there two different types of crankcases for them to go on??

Let me guess, the ones that give the most trouble with the top crank case seals are the type thats got the full skirt round the outside with the light plastic stuffer block screwed on the under side.

Bob.