OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Walk Behind Lawn Mower Frames Question On Scott Bonnar Cylinder Mowers Hi I'm Restoring Scott Bonnar Lawn King

I'm a bit worried when you say "springs" - the later designs have 2 springs, but the 60102 governor only has one spring, as shown in the diagrams I posted. BTW, if I recall correctly the instructions for my engine said you should start and tune that engine with the speed control in about mid-position.

The stuff I post about B&S engines largely comes from the B&S engine overhaul manual. I got it from here:
http://www.tpub.com/content/recoveryvehicles/TM-5-4240-501-14P/css/TM-5-4240-501-14P_78.htm

You can look at any page of the manual on-line, or buy the whole thing either as a download or on CD. It doesn't cover the current series, or any of the Chinese-made engines.

mines got 2 springs, one attaches to the governor and the throttle, and the other attaches to the throttle and the chassis.

Can you post a picture of that please? It doesn't sound like a 60102 governor.

ITS ALIVE MWAAHAHAHA!

got the petrol cap and air filter and hooked everything up and it runs like a dream now, no hunting or inconsistent revs, it runs fantastic.

just need to fine tune the reel adjustment and ill have a fully functional restored mower.


images of the throttle setup here for you grumpy.

The second spring on that is just a return spring for the remote control, it does not affect the governor. It just biases the speed setting lever to make it easier to adjust via a very inefficient Bowden cable, it does not affect the butterfly throttle's position. You can see a similar deal, where a monstrous additional spring was used for that purpose, on Kirby Lauson (Tecumseh) mower engines of about that period. I don't care for the mechanism - the genuine B&S one I posted seems much more elegant to me - and yours had a kinked Bowden cable right at the anchor point as well, but it has no bearing on your governor instability. So what did you do to fix the instability: tune the mixture?

i put the spring in the right holes for starters, but i had to twist and strighten the link govener so that the loop was facing toward the engine, the spring was getting stuck on the throttle mechanism and the starter cover. then i adjusted the mixture screw and the idle speed.

Also had to get some washers for the carby screws, they kept shaking loose so it was sucking air through there as well.

now it starts on the 3rd or 4th go and doesnt stop or loose power when i engage the blades or the roller. Its a bit much to ask it to start on first considering the tiny amount of pull the start has, besides the fact that its 35 odd years old.

I had to change the curve in my governor link too - it was fouling on things. The way I start mine is chainsaw style. It has a very crude, chainsaw-like choke with no spring-loaded "unloader" feature such as real carburetors have. So, I close the choke, pull the starter either once or twice, and it chugs then stops. I open the choke fully, pull once, and it starts and runs. I used your method until I looked at the choke and realised only brute force would work - now it starts more easily. I agree, mine was about fourth pull in warm weather if I didn't use the choke.

here are the final restoration pics of my lawn mower, just mowed the front an back lawns and it does a bloody good job

as you can see its already got some wear and tear from its first few hours use, but it looks a treat and goes a treat too







and for comparasin the before and after pic

Well done tezza, you persevered and got the results you aimed for.

Hi Tezza, good job mate, she looks a real treat.
Can you tell me why your grass deflector is so far forward?

thats how it goes, its got the two black handled fasteners that attach to the grass deflector, unless i have to put those two other thingies through the fasteners?

Hi Tezza, mate, you've got it fitted incorrectly...You slide the deflector down behind the reel, the 2 spring clips attached to the back of it (on the bottom of deflector) clip over the top edge of your bottom blade holder and the 2 top adjustment arms (the "springy things") slide through the slots under the 2 black knobs and allow you to move the deflector back or forward to direct the grass into the grass box correctly.
Here are some pics to show you...please excuse my dirty Scotty, I have just finished mowing late yesterday, during a break in the rain.....


Shows the top attachment


Hoping this helps,

Hi Tezza, did you get the deflector to slip into position?

yeah i figured it out. Now crap doesn't fly out from the reel and hit me in the head.

Hi Tezza, you might like to consider taking another pic for your avatar now you have corrected the deflector.

Gotta love that blue paint....

Craig