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Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 61
Likes: 20
DFB Offline OP
Trainee
Before I get to the mower in question, there is some back story to be had which links directly back to this old Rover.

Back in 1992, a few months before this lawn mower was made, I was diagnosed with Type 1 diabetes. At 6-years of age, I had no idea what was happening to me, or why my parents would later need to pin me down to administer my twice daily insulin injections. At the time, the family GP basically ignored my symptoms, sent me on my way and left me to get worse and worse until I landed in the children's ward of the local base hospital. If that had happened to today, you can be sure the doctor would have been sued, but my parents were advised not to pursue such action. Back then, diabetes wasn't well understood.

You know, there are some things that you remember as clear as day, even after 30+ years. As I lay in bed after a night spend in complete confusion, I vividly remember a man walking down the corridor and boldly announced that he could "smell him from here.......", which was in reference to the fruity/acetone aroma I was giving off due to ketoacidosis, which is caused by the body burning fat for energy instead of glucose, which produces toxic ketones. That man was the on-call pediatrician, a man who would go on to look after me until I entered adulthood. Actually, he continued to see me well after my 18th birthday, he didn't trust anyone else. This man was one of the country's leading pediatricians, a tireless advocate for children and totally selfless. In recent times as he approached retirement, he was forced to give up practicing and mentoring due to failing eyesight. A life of hard work and now mostly dependent on others to help him function.

After I left high school, I was studying horticulture part time and building a gardening business. Knowing this, my doctor asked if I'd be interested in doing some gardening as his wife was needing help keeping up with such a large space. This was circa 2005, and 20-years later, I'm still there. At the time, both were still working full time jobs, so I was given the task of treating the garden as if it were my own. I'd spend several hours there each week maintaining the garden and lawns. As the years went on, I would help them out on multiple levels, especially now as the good doctor has become disabled. In many ways, it's gone full circle. This man delivered me as a baby, then managed my diabetes for 13-years. Now, it's me who is looking after him.

Back when I started there, I would use a combination of my own and their gardening tools, in particular his Rover lawn mower. That mower quickly got sidelined as it was a bit of a pig, it would start fine and then progressively choke itself as it came up to temp. It also leaked fuel. For the better part of 18 years, the mower sat in the garden shed covered in boxes, I was the last person to use it. Fast forward to early last year, my clients were cleaning out the shed. Knowing I was into mowers, they sent me a message asking if I would like the old Rover, otherwise they (read: he) was going to throw it away. I was around there within 5-minutes to pick it up.

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

What we have here is a Rover Combat with the 18-inch alloy deck. Powered by the Briggs & Stratton Quantum 35 ES, the date code indicated the engine was built in December 1992, so the mower would have been made in early 1993.

Two things were at play here. Despite it being filthy from its extended slumber, I knew the mower hadn't done much work, especially considering it sat for something like 18-years. I also vaguely remember it being a bit temperamental but couldn't remember why. So, considering the condition of the mower despite its age, I felt like it was worth taking a punt on getting it recommissioned.

That same day, with some fresh fuel in the bone-dry tank and a few shots of carb spray, I managed to get the engine running again. I even mowed the lawns with it. Then I rediscovered why this thing had been sitting idle for so long. It was leaking fuel from the tank outlet, not a gushing leak but enough to empty the contents within a few hours. However, the main problem was how the engine was surging on full throttle, but would smooth out if I pushed the throttle through into the choke. So, I assumed I had two problems going on, a fuel leak and a fuel delivery/carb problem. Parts would be needed.

Now, you could assume that it's plain idiocy to clean a lawn mower, and you would be correct in that assumption. crazy In my defense, the mower was covered in mouse droppings, so the cleaning was as much making it safe to work on as it was making it look pretty.

First port of call, I soaked the whole mower down with Shine Supply Wise Guy at 50/50 dilution. After a short dwell period, I hosed the mower down with water. This easily stripped any oil and grease accumulated on the engine and deck over the years.

https://www.waxit.com.au/products/s...1&_psq=wise+guy&_ss=e&_v=1.0

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

Next, I scrubbed the engine, deck, wheels, catcher and handlebars with P&S Brake Buster at full strength. This product is an alkaline wheel and tyre cleaner that I really like for its excellent lathering ability, it even has a corrosion inhibitor.

https://autobuff.com.au/products/p-...=2&_psq=brake+b&_ss=e&_v=1.0

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

I even used a wire brush and some Koch Chemie Magic Wheel Cleaner to brighten up the muffler.

After a thorough rinse, I applied some Carpro Hydr02 to the whole mower, which is a water-delivered/activated touchless sealant, followed by a liberal dose of Meguiar's Hyper Dressing at 5:1 dilution. I then dried it off with a leaf blower and a towel.

https://www.waxit.com.au/products/carpro-hydrolite-1l-4l?_pos=1&_psq=hydro&_ss=e&_v=1.0
https://automotivesuperstore.com.au...eionYydfVFpZ1Fd9_2QwJk7g2yRoC8P8QAvD_BwE

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

For some reason, the left side of engine cover/fuel tank had deteriorated at a different rate to the right side. The plastic catcher likewise faded.

With the mower clean, it was a matter of tracking down some spare parts. This actually proved to be somewhat frustrating as Rover, via MTD, have given up on the Australian market. But with some persistence, I eventually found what I needed.

To be continued...............................

Portal Box 6
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 61
Likes: 20
DFB Offline OP
Trainee
After determining the fuel leak was coming from a crack in the tank outlet, I went and tracked down a new petrol tank. Easier said than done!

From what I can tell, there are three different tanks used on Quantum's. One was used for the earliest engines in the 1980's, which accounted for the vertical-pull starter and central dipstick. The second iteration was used during the early 90's and like the original, it covered the whole topside of the engine. This version accounted for the left side dipstick and flywheel starter. The third generation lasted up until the end of side-valve production and was slimmed down to allow Briggs to fit different dress cowling.

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

The later third-gen tanks are readily available, while the first two are very hard to find. In the end, I found someone listing the tank I needed, but had to wait for it to come from Briggs and Stratton in the USA. Technically, I could have tracked down a used tank, but this is a common problem for these tanks, so chances are it would likely be leaking as well. I waited nearly four months for the new tank!

So, while I waited for the new tank and a carb kit, I attended to a couple of other issues.

For a 31-year-old mower, it looked fantastic! The blades were basically brand new, even the carrier disk still had red paint on it. The oil also looked fresh, again with its red colouring present. Having said that, I wanted to go over the whole thing properly, starting with a new spark plug. The CJ8 fitted was ok, but I swapped it out for a new Champion J19LM, the modern replacement for the CJ8.

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

I then made sure to re-torque the cylinder head bolts as these have a habit of backing off over time, especially the exhaust side.

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

The handlebar locking handles had cracked and were not offering enough tightness, so I replaced those with some aftermarket cam-locks as I couldn't find the OE ones.

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

However, I wasn't happy with them, they just didn't fit as well as I was expecting. I eventually tracked down a set of NOS ones, which I had to get out of the UK. I know the mower is old, but with this machine and my ProCut 560, Rover have basically abandoned the Australian market. Parts are hard to find, and the mowers they sell now have nothing on these older models. Many thanks MTD, way to completely ruin a brand.

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

Next, repairing the catcher. The old brittle mesh screen had broken, in turn allowing the clippings to escape. For this, I cut strips of gutter guard and zip tied them in place. Problem sorted!

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

I then waited...........and waited...........and waited........and emailed...........and waited..........and then emailed..........and finally the fuel tank turned up, joining some new fuel line, air filters and a carburetor rebuild kit.

To be continued...........................

Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 61
Likes: 20
DFB Offline OP
Trainee
Four months later, the new fuel tank arrived!

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

Hmmm, which sticker did I go with? laugh

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

My plan was to simply replace the tank and see how this went. After researching, it was looking likely the fuel leak was causing the surging issue. When the throttle was cracked into the choke, the engine would smooth out, leading me to think that the carby was not the issue and that the engine was simply running lean due to a lack of fuel flow. So, I hoisted the mower up onto my workbench, the back of my daily driver.

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

First step, I removed the air filter cover, followed by the throttle cable.

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

I then went to remove the fuel line from the tank, which I immediately found the problem...................

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

So, the leak was caused by a perished and cracked tank outlet, which finally separated when I went to remove the clamp and hose.

Next, the three top mounted bolts and one side bolt were removed, and the tank lifted off the engine.

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

New tank ready for install. At this point I realized I had the later version of this tank, which offers a slightly bigger volume and extends further rearwards. Thankfully, it still fitted this engine. The larger fuel volume is not a bad thing, from experience, these engines are pretty thirsty.

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

While I was this far in, I wanted to take a look at the carb, which meant removing the air filter housing. That housing was changed to plastic on later engines. While it was off the engine, I went ahead and cleaned it up too. I then removed the old fuel hose from the carb. Also note the breather hose comes away from the metal pipe and remains with the housing.

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

I then removed the bowl, which is held in place by one single nut which also functions as the main jet. You will also note I had installed the new hose to the carby.

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

The bowl was surprisingly clean, no sediment or varnish.

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

Main jet / bowl nut, which was cleaned.

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

Because of the condition of the bowl, I decided to not go any further. I did however replace the perished bowl o-ring, and replaced the main jet gasket, both included in the kit.

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

The old carb inlet gasket was in bad shape and was replaced with the item in the kit.

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

To be continued........................

Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 61
Likes: 20
DFB Offline OP
Trainee
Once the carb was back together, I installed the new tank. I cut the new hose to length and fitted it to the tank nipple. I was doing this on a rather cold winters day, so using a heat gun to warm up the rubber was a stroke of genius!

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

With the air filter housing reinstalled, it was then time for the new air filter.

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

This engine was only fitted with the one paper element, but some were also fitted with a foam pre-filter, which I decided to include for thoroughness.

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

The green filter fits into the plastic cover, the paper filter is then placed over that and then installed back on the engine.

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

I then installed the recoil cover, which this engine was missing for some reason. The throttle cable was also re-installed.

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

While it should have had a "Quantum 35 XE" decal, I couldn't find one for sale, so I used the Briggs & Stratton logo supplied with the new tank.

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

It was then time for a test run. I filled the tank with some fresh fuel, thankfully no leaks from the tank, new hose or from the carb bowl. A this point my heart sank because the thing wouldn't fire.

I removed the plug and sprayed some starting fluid into the cylinder and got it running. I then realized the choke was not engaging, causing the cold start issue, a quick adjustment to the throttle cable solved that. After letting it run for a while, I was confident the replacement fuel tank had solved the surging issues.

The engine now running properly, I decided to change the oil. I've always found these old Quantum's to consume oil, even if they don't smoke, you can smell it. As such, I tend to stick with the SAE30 mono-grade oil on these engines.

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

As mentioned in the previous post, the old oil that came out still had a red hue to it, leading me to a theory. I suspect this mower had been serviced before I came on the scene and was put away. Newish looking oil, brand new blades and a decent looking spark plug. I think the thing was serviced in an attempt to address the surging issue, but whoever did it didn't dig deep enough.

Because this is an older Quantum, the carby still has high and low speed adjustment screws................BLISS! Briggs frustratingly removed those on the later engines, presumably for emissions and to stop owners messing about with them. Those newer engines really don't idle, the throttle only controlling high and low speed running. But this engine can be throttled down to a nice tick over, making catcher emptying much nicer. It also has a more pronounced top end without having to play with the governor to extract those extra revs.

Top end adjustment............

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

Idle adjustment..............

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

Idle speed, a sweet tick over....................

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

Full throttle, 3600 to 3700 rpm -

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

While there was headroom to tune it higher, I decided to back it down a touch...........

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

So with that, the old Rover Combat was back in action and cutting grass!

Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 61
Likes: 20
DFB Offline OP
Trainee
After getting the engine running properly again, I had people telling me I should sell this mower. However, mowing a few lawns and giving it a decent workout with and without load, this thing rips! Despite having a claimed 3.5 hp, low for the 190cc capacity, it has a great top end to compensate. It has a full width discharge chute for efficient catching and the alloy chassis is super stout. This old Rover is far better than the rubbish they sell now. As such, it's not going anywhere!

This video was taken before I fine-tuned the carburetor............................



This video was taken quite recently........................



I just wish modern Briggs engines could idle down like that.

Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 61
Likes: 20
DFB Offline OP
Trainee
Not long after the tank repairs, I decided to give that muffler a little love. A completely pointless exercise, but I've always loved the shape of these mufflers, and while I managed to get it clean, I had to use a wire brush to get it there.

Before, covered in carbon and corrosion...........................

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

After chemical cleaning and a hit with a wire brush.............................

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

To get full access, and to not splatter that new plastic tank with polish residue, I removed the muffler from the engine. I then used good-old Mother's Mag & Aluminum Polish on a foam cone attachment.

https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p...tcA7KZbFmRoCCpwQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
https://detailingshed.com.au/produc...cone?_pos=1&_sid=058b068de&_ss=r

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

After, notice how you can now see the Briggs and Stratton logo now..........................

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 61
Likes: 20
DFB Offline OP
Trainee
Mainly because of storage issues, not long after getting the Rover running again, I ended up loaning out this mower. It's role was to cut a particular lawn extremely short, think putting green type of thing. Being an Aussie designed and made mower, this was easily achieved using the Rover. However, about a month ago the Rover was returned to my care.

I had changed the oil on site back in September, but upon return I wanted to do some servicing........................and satisfy my curiosity. If you remember, my theory was this mower/engine hadn't done much work. So, I decided to pull the cylinder head and see for myself.

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

After removing the eight remarkably clean head bolts and the two smaller bolts holding recoil, I gently lifted the head away from the block. The piston was also remarkably clean, and while it looks bad in the photo's, the head wasn't too bad either. Compared to the oil-burning Sprint from a couple of months ago, this one looks quite reasonable. The intake valve was pretty crusty though.

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

I then went about cleaning up the head, block and piston, removing any remaining gasket material in the process. I also sanded the head on the bench to level down any warping and create a level gasket surface. You would probably do that with the block as well, but I wasn't removing the engine or all the surrounding parts to make that possible. The valve faces were cleaned, and I did my best with the valve seats.

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

After cleaning the block and head with carb spray, it was then time for reassembly. For the head gasket, you need to be careful when ordering these. Despite these flat-head engines being largely unchanged over many decades, Briggs did change a lot of parts over the years, head gasket included. This is where your model-type-code number comes into the equation, which helps narrow down what parts your engine needs. For this vintage Quantum, I needed the 272200 or 272200S head gasket.

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

With the recoil cover still on the machine, it can be tricky getting the head levered up under the cover plate, then aligning the gasket and at least two head bolts with the block. Once located properly, I then fed in the rest of the bolts, getting them started by hand then seating them with the impact driver. Important to note that I didn't torque them down with the impact, I just ran them down till the first click and then followed with a torque wrench. I know there is probably an official torque sequence, but I just follow a cross pattern, the first round to 10 Nm, then followed by the suggested 16 Nm..............actually, I did them at 17 Nm.

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

If you are looking for a good torque wrench, I can certainly vouch for these Wera items. This particular one is the A5 with 2.5 to 25 Nm capacity, and I also have the C4 with 60 to 300 Nm capacity. They have a lovely positive click-click action and the handles are super ergonomic. I also love the positive click for each increment up or down, and the clear indicator. Certainly not the cheapest, but also not the most expensive, especially if you buy them from Amazon.

https://products.wera.de/en/torque_...reversible_ratchet_click-torque_a_5.html
https://products.wera.de/en/torque_...sible_ratchet_click-torque_c_4.html.html

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

With the head back on, I turned to some more basic service items. Although probably unnecessary, I started by fitting a new spark plug.

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

Next, the filters. Both the paper panel filter and foam pre-filter were dirtier than expected. I could have blown out and/or washed them, but I don't have the patience for that, so I just replaced them. The items that came out of the machine were aftermarket parts, the ones that went in are genuine Briggs.

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

It was then time to fire it up for a test run, which started on the first pull and settled into that sweet idle.

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

I love these engines, they are so simple to work on and seem to run much nicer than the later versions with their fixed speed carburetors. That means they can actually idle and then have enough fuel for high rpm running. I also find people like to dismiss Briggs engines, and to a certain extent I can see where they are coming from. But with appropriate care and maintenance, they can certainly go the distance.

On this occasion, removing the head wasn't really needed. However, after seeing the condition of the piston and those head bolts, it sort of confirmed my suspicion that this engine hasn't done much work.

1 member likes this: MowingManiac

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