G'day. I'm deep in the hole fixing up an early 2000's era Cox Stockman 2. Machined the drive plates, every bearing replaced, machined the worn out drive sprocket off the rear axle, machined up a flange that doubles up as a new brake drum and fitted a new bolt-on 70 tooth. All pulleys and belts replaced with new. Old 13hp engine removed and replaced with 18hp V-twin Kawasaki. Only problem is it cuts like cr#p and on my fairly lumpy 1 acre block, the rear discharge chute is constantly blocking up and just useless. #NOTE I don't have or use a catcher. I've even opened up and shortened the plastic chute that connects to the deck to try and help but it's no use. So.. I'm considering cutting the welds on the deck mounting hardware (welded to the deck), turning the deck anticlockwise roughly 90 degrees and re-welding it there to attempt a side-discharge conversion. Half the welds are cracked off the deck anyway so I figure it's worth a try. I can't find a decent deck to drop into the machine otherwise I would and this one was fixed up and galvanised in the past which is a bonus. Any Cox/ride-on aficionados out there see any obvious brick walls in my plan? Sorry for the long post but an explanation is probably best at the beginning rather than in the middle of the discussion. Regards and thanks. Luke.
Hi Luke, Big job turning the deck, be easier to cut an opening in the right hand side and put a chute on it to protect feet from going under it? Just looking at the pic, does the deck drag on the ground or does it have any wheels to keep it level? It is probably that bar across the bottom that catches the grass and it builds up from there
You may be able to get more efficient blades to clear the grass from the deck.
When it comes to ride-on mowers, the choice of blades can significantly affect their performance, particularly regarding the deck's ability to clear grass clippings efficiently. Here are some factors and options to consider for the best blades for clearing grass out of the deck: Types of Blades
Standard Blades: These are typically flat, high-lift blades that are effective for general mowing. They create a strong upward lift, which helps to discharge grass clippings quickly and prevent clogging.
High-Lift Blades: High-lift blades are designed with a more pronounced shape that enhances airflow and grass discharge. They are great for tall or wet grass, reducing clogging in the mower deck.
Mulching Blades: While not specifically designed to clear clippings out of the deck, mulching blades can finely chop grass, which can reduce the risk of blockage during mowing.
Gator Blades: These are a type of mulching blade that can also assist in discharging clippings via a unique design. They cut the grass into smaller pieces, making it easier for the mower to handle clippings without clogging.
Material and Quality
Choose blades made from high-carbon steel or other durable materials to withstand wear and provide a clean cut. Stainless steel options are also available but may be more expensive.
Maintenance Tips
Regular Cleaning: Ensure to regularly clean the mower deck after use to prevent grass build-up, which can lead to clogging. Sharpen Blades: Keep blades sharpened to maintain efficient cutting and ensure even discharge of clippings. Check for Damage: Inspect blades regularly for signs of wear or damage and replace as needed.
Conclusion
For the best performance in clearing grass from the deck, high-lift blades are generally recommended as they promote better airflow and efficient discharge of clippings. Make sure to maintain your blades and mower deck for optimal performance throughout the mowing season.
I've had mower discharge ports clog before when there is a restrictor metal cross beam at the bottom of the port as grass builds up on this cross beam and sometimes you can't just cut the metal out because the metal strengthens the deck so it doesn't crack in the corners.
I have cut the metal out on mowers and strengthened the port with flat steel and that has fixed the grass clogging in the port as well as stopping any flex in the base now that the lower cross bar is missing.
