I just wasn't sure how thick the alloy is in that spot but knew around the spark plug the alloy may be thicker, If you think that will work looking at the head, it's worth trying .
Ok further along the road with the OHV motor, at least I have a spark plug in the head no just have to see if the Enfield decomp will fit straight in or if I have to make an adaptor for it, hope not
The copper pipe idea I think was when using 2 Victa decomps or if there wasn't enough room for the decomp in the head.
The Royal Enfield ,I've seen 2 types ,one manual and one cable operated that released compression into the exhaust port, You shouldn't have any trouble screwing the decomp straight into the head.
I see there are Harley decomps that are built into the spark plug hole but a little expensive.
Lot of different bike ones out there that are cheap ,I guess the only other concern is if the decomp closes to late after compression and sucks in dirt.
All good now Max, fired up instantly and runs like a dream, Briggs are just a shithead company doing what the do on the cam, it is designed to fail. Anyway that is 2 motors saved from going to the scrapper with the aid of a couple of Victa decomps Big problem for me now is I am out of oxy and there are some jobs I can't do without oxy
Yes Norm, Briggs should have fixed all the motors for free ,but not likely ,heard of a few breaking at 20 hours use, so not great for Briggs and now people refer to them as Breaks and scrap em.
This good decomp fix can at least stop the motors getting thrown out.
I did hear that in 2020 Briggs redesigned the ACR on the cam but I haven't heard how reliable the new cams are.
Originally Posted by NormK
Big problem for me now is I am out of oxy and there are some jobs I can't do without oxy
Yes I have the same problem ,the last bottles I had were dirt cheap second hand ,you do see them for sale on market place from time to time.
Another option is to get the bottles filled but is $200. for small D bottles.
I've been using the LPG torch more instead of the oxy kit for heating and lead /soldering etc.
I thought possibly another type of oxygen less pure than what's normally used would work but it won't work, the only thing I've found that may work cheaply is pure oxygen for a scuba tank but it's not legal to do ,but could be possible to use and only around $5 to fill a D sized bottle.
The scuba tank with LPG would be cheap for brazing and cutting.
Yes Max, the bottles I have been using I was given about 8 years ago, I only use it for real problem things for that reason. Sometime there is no alternative. It is the $200 deposit that hurts, but that is a lot better than paying the yearly rental that you had to pay for CIG bottles Anyway I am super happy with the fix on these motors, just the OHV one took longer because I had to make the adaptor because of the angle I had to drill at to clear everything and still keep inside the head gasket. Because of the angle I needed a long thread spark plug so it could pick up enough threads. Motors start so easily now, and Briggs couldn't figure that simple thing out. Why would anybody want to replace a crap cam that has failed with a brand new crap cam that you know will fail. Anyway a good outcome
And I'm not going into business providing changeover modified heads for the world market because there is probably a market for them because it is much simpler to change the head, than splitting the cases to replace a cam that is prone to fail again
Ok so my latest problem with this flathead motor is it is not charging. I am getting 25 volts ac from the stator (which is what they say it should put out) but with a new rec/reg plugged into the stator wires the battery remains sitting on its pre start figure of 12.4 volts. Any thoughts?
Just checking I assume you did bring the motor to maximum rpm to check the voltage. as we know If the engine is running at a low RPM, the output of the alternator may not be sufficient to raise the battery voltage significantly above its current state. At low RPMs, the alternator may produce less voltage and current, which may result in little or no charging of the battery.
To charge the battery effectively, you'll want to ensure that the engine is running at a higher speed to allow the alternator to produce the necessary voltage for charging.
So most likely you've done the above and still not charging ,you would think that just leaves a problem with the battery or the regulator ,assuming the wiring is correct and no problem with the motor earth to frame,
a few steps to troubleshoot the issue:
Check Rectifier/Regulator Wiring: Ensure that all connections between the stator, rectifier/regulator, and the battery are secure and free from corrosion or damage. A poor connection can prevent proper charging.
Check the Rectifier/Regulator: Even though you have a new rectifier/regulator, there is a possibility that it could be faulty. Test the rectifier's output with the engine running. You should see a DC voltage reading of around 13.5 to 14.5 volts at the battery terminals if the rectifier is functioning correctly.(this step was done / possibly bad regulator)
Measure DC Voltage: Use a multimeter to measure the voltage across the battery terminals while the engine is running at a higher RPM (around 3,600 RPM). This can help you confirm whether the rectifier is functioning. If you see little to no increase in voltage, that indicates a problem.
Check Battery Condition: Ensure that the battery itself is healthy. If the battery is old or has internal issues, it may not hold a charge even if the charging system is working correctly. Consider testing the battery's condition separately (e.g., using a load tester).
Inspect the Stator: Although you are getting the expected AC voltage from the stator, it can still have issues. Inspect the stator for any signs of damage, such as burnt windings or internal shorts that may not be immediately visible.
Ground Connection: Confirm that the ground connections from the battery to the frame and engine are solid and free of corrosion. Poor grounding can sometimes affect the charging circuit.
Test under Load: If possible, measure the output while the mower is under load or at higher RPMs, as some systems may require a certain load before they begin to charge effectively.
Thanks Max, Wiring is all new, battery is new, rec/reg is new, I have ordered a new stator but I don't believe this is the problem. I have worked for years on Enfield charging systems so I have a rough idea how they work and this system is so much simpler, plug the rec/reg into the stator and connect the red wire from the rec/reg to battery positive, can't get any easier than that. Got me a bit stumped at the moment. If the stator is putting out 25 volts ac with the revs it is running at then it should be fine for the dc side as well
When a new part hasn't been tested on a working system you don't know if there is a fault with the new rec / reg , especially when purchasing parts online.
Every other part sounds good ,except possibly a fault in the stator or rec / reg.
I usually just list all the check list of fault finding if any one else has a similar problem and I find it quicker to run though a list so nothing gets missed, I knew you could do these blind folded by now but I don't always trust new parts to work.
