OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Engines Questions On Victa Two Stroke Engines Victa Super 600 rips arm off when trying to start

Hi,

Just done up a super 600 slasher 24" model with front Windrow. Lovely mower and put new head gasket, carb bits, blades and pulley with o-ring on top crank case. Also new starter assembly as old one the spring went.

When I try to start it it will pull and then snaps back nearly taking my hand off. I have had it running after some perserverance but now it has smashed my starter assembly due to pulling back. I have fitted a new recoil but don't want to snap this one as well as hard to come by in the UK.

This really helps me take out the long grass so I need some help please to work out what need fixing.

Thanks,

There are two things that commonly cause kickback on the starting system. One is overly advanced ignition timing, and the other is lack of rotational inertia in the engine. So, for example, a sheared flywheel key can cause the ignition timing to be anything at all, and trying to start an engine without the flywheel or blade plate attached can cause lack of rotational inertia.

If you try to start your slasher without the belt drive to the cutting disk, or with the cutting disk removed or the driving belt slack, you will get exactly what you got.

Hi Dr Watts, As Grumpy has said, there are two common causes for this behavior.

The first thing we need to know to narrow it down is what king of engine you are running, It sounds to me like a powertorque, as you have mentioned an O-ring at the top of the crank case.

To be sure, Can you tell me if the starter is at the top of the engine, or on the side? and is the flywheel (fan) on top, or underneath?

Hi,

Sorry for the lack of clarity.

It is definately a powertorque engine with G4 carb. Starter on top, short stem decompressor at the rear left as you look at it (I think originally it had a long stem but I changed it for the one from my 550 pro as it was in better condition and the 550 is currently out of action but that is for another post).

I think the fan is underneath as it isn't really visible but this is an identical mower You tube link

I can't think if I have tried it with the blade plate off but certainly not recently so this isn't the cause.

I have had the mower running and in fact cut around 1/2 acre of very long grass with it last May so once you get it running it doesn't seem to have many issues that I know of. It is just getting the thing started in the first place. I have fired it up again since but it is in our holiday home and we only get there every 3 months or so.

Thanks for all your help.

OK, A powertorque uses a computerised module for the ignition, so to get kick back, there isnt really timing that can be adjusted as such.

The two things that come to mind first for me are:

1)Issues with belt tension; as this mower uses a belt driven blade system, it could be that the belt is not holding well enough during starting, and therefore the inertis needed to kick the engine over is intermittent, hence why you will eventually get the blade motion to start it, but not innitialy.

2)Flywheel damage, By memory, this flywheel (underneath) uses a D shaped crank section, rather than a key, warpage or other damage to the flywheel can cause the timing to be slightly out, witch could lead to this issue when starting.

I would suggest looking into both at once, take the engine off, and remove the flywheel, clean it up, and inspect it carefully, paying special attention to how firmly it mounts back onto the shaft.

Then, once you have done this, and re-attached the engine, pay close attention to the condition of the belt, and action of the belt tensioner while you are re-attaching the belt. Make sure the belt is in good condition, and does not slip while you are trying to start the mower.

Thanks. Will try both next time I am over. The belt does seem fine and it appears to turn over OK. Might be the flywheel but unknown till I get it off.

I can feel the belt turning the blade and there doesn't appear to be slippage when trying to start, it's just that I get a snap back of the rope at times that is really powerful and nearly takes your fingers off. The engine turns freely and I will start but as I said it has mashed a plastic starter head due to the snap back.

No such problems with my 550 which uses a Powerttorque engine and this one starts really easily until my blade disc wore and became loose on the spindle. Now it starts first time I tighten the blade disc up but then won't start as the blade disc spins unbalabced and stops any speed on the start up.

Tighten the belt.

Ive had one do the same thing. It was a full crank motor but the same symptom. Tightened the belt up a bit.

Hi All,

The tightening of the belt worked great but it is nearing the limit now of tightening so I am thinking a new belt might cure it.

They are very difficult to get in the UK as they seem to be a strange shape. Is there an equivalent I can use that anyone knows of?

THanks in advance.

Just a regular A section belt is all you need. If you want it to last forever get a Kevlar wrapped belt.


Biggest pain is getting the guard off so you can fit it. The bolts are usually rusted up. Good time to fit up new bolts. Taking the disc off is usually hassle free.

Interesting reading. I have JUST picked one up for $50 with a buggered drive belt, Checked for spark and good then just about ripped my arm of to see if it will run before fitting belt. Had a funny feeling in the back of my mind it would need the belt fitted to lessen the kick back. Was actually looking to see if there is an easy simple way to put the belt on without removing the disc and guard. The belt tightening bolt setup looks quite bodgey. Has anyone a pick of the correct setup? Sorry have just found the post.

Hi Topcat, is it fitted with a PT motor? if so there is work needed to prevent them from breaking your fingers. Fitting a belt does not solve the problem, extra weight has to be added to the crank. If you stand the machine up vertically on the front wheels everything is easy to get at. You have to remove the blade carrier and then remove the sheetmetal cover you can then fit the new belt, it is simple once you get the few screws out that hold the cover on. Get it working and they are one of the best slashers ever made

Just curious as how the op is reattaching his arms? Super Glue or JB Weld?

Just poking fun at the thread title and kicking the forum in the side.

'Armless fun AVB?

Danny

They just have to rely on electric start without their good arm.

Hi AVB,
How is your world going over there, starting to get cold again, at least we are warming up. I recently got some 2 part glue from that Temu mob and so far it has glued everything I have used it on. Best thing is it seems to be working well on all the plastic bits I have wanted to repair. I even used it on a knitting latch for my wife and they are about 2mm in diameter and so far it seems to be holding fine. At this stage I would say it is a lot better than the JB Weld and a fraction of the cost. This stuff is $5 but I can't tell you the name of it because it is all written in Chinese, all I know is so far I have had a 100% strike rate with everything I have repaired with it. I ordered another lot yesterday, I think it might be the new miracle repair adhesive. I have used it on plastic pipe in a pond filter that is under water and no signs of breaking down or failing

How do you order it NormK? While on the subject of ordering, do you have a link to more hot staples as I'm running out of the squiggly ones you put along cracks and wouldn't mind more of the straight ones?

Hi MF,
The glue was from a mob called TEMU, they have millions of things on their site, problem is once you start looking it is hard to stop grabbing things you think you might need.
It is easy to get staples but you have to be careful because all the cheap kits give you a mix of 4 types. If you just want the wiggley ones (They are my most used and I have bought 1000 of them a couple of months ago) This is all I have found at the moment
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/374605816045?

1000 pieces? That's a lifetime worth unless you're in the car trade. At least you don't have to worry about using too many.
Thanks for the link NK.

Sorry MF, seems about the min you can get, I could send you some but the postage would cost similar to what you can buy online

Ok grabbed one. With the cost of rivets these days, it's not a bad deal. You get loads.