I now have a pattern to fit the PT motors onto the F/C bases that use the adapter plate the early 24's were designed for the F/C to bolt straight on and as I don't have one of those here at the moment I'm not sure what modifications they would require for a PT to fit. I am going to get some F/C adapter plates laser cut and then I can modify some to take the PT motors. And while I am at it I will get some discs laser cut as well to make into blade carriers for them. Bit of work making them up but as they are no longer available but I don't see much alternative because there is no comparable slasher to these available in Australia anymore. Anybody have any thoughts or opinions?
Blade carriers are usually dished so that the centre bolt/s don't hit the ground or rocks, etc. Not easy to get that shape right while working on the back porch :-) Any plans to have the flat plates stamped or pressed Norm ?
Hi MM, Yes good points I am thinking about, these have 4 bolts that hold the blade carrier on, I'm thinking of getting a 20mm thick block to space the carrier down and I can recess the bolt heads inside the plate to protect the heads I am working on an idea to space the blades down to allow for the dome on the blades to sit. As for the plate I'm thinking of using 4mm plate to give it extra strength because it won't have the dish and turned up outer edge
I'm scrapping much of my mowers Norm, including the 24 chassis I have. I wish I could send the two blade carriers and any other odds you want off them to you as I don't want them anymore. If only I could get in touch with anyone planning a drive to Melbourne's south east to drop them your way.
Ahh, if only victa had kept producing the thumblatch catcher series, they would be in better shape today!
I would modify a Rover blade plate to fit ,as the original blade plates would be hardened and you have a dish( recess) standard.
The 4 mm plate may prematurely wear the bearings out with the extra weight but you could counter sink the centre bolts so would be an option but if you can buy an original it's going to save some work.
If MF will box up a few parts ,Norm can book a courier for pick up ,pack and send can be booked online and they don't charge any more to pick up from your door. The courier price will usually be a little less than Aus Post ,the 2 blade carriers will probably cost about $40. to book the courier.The Only problem is you need a printer to print the Consignment Note.
Not sure what the weight would total but another option is Aus Post and you don't need a printer.
Hi Max, if the original blade carriers were hardened in anyway they would not chew the blade bolt holes out the way they do, seems like ms plate to me and the only way I could see it putting any stress on the bearings is if it was out of balance but they are big heavy bearings so I don't see any issues but as you say it is a fair bit of work. Rover ones are too light and too small in diameter and I would still have to make up a spacer to fit over the end of the spindle shaft and bolt up to the 4 bolt holes
The blade holes wear out and they are hardened ,I don't think the blade plate is hardened to any were near what the blades are.
I know the bigger machinery definitely has hardened blade discs .I don't think blade plates are just mild steel.Blade discs seem stronger than mild steel to me.
The 21 inch Rover has 2 different sized blade plates ,one is only about 1/8 smaller than the Victa plate and with the 4 blades on the Rover it would be around the same weight as the Victa with 2 blades. Yes still a bit of work to do to make the Rover disc fit.
I think the postage price of $50. for 20 kg is reasonable.for parts and a lot easier than making up the parts. If the old blades and bolts are removed the postage may only be $30.
Hi Max, the biggest Rover blade carrier I have here is 340mm in diameter, the Victa one is 375mm and I would still have to get a boss laser cut to fit over the end of the spindle
I get around 365mm for the Rover disc and around 370 mm for the Victa 24 disc, so only 2.5 mm difference in radius .
I'd just use the lathe to make the boss for the plate.
You could have this Rover disc Norm but this one looks too worn out, has lots of cracks and bits missing and rust .
Not sure if I have any more of these bigger discs ,I think they were off the early 21 inch Rovers.
I guess it just depends how much it's going to cost to laser cut all the parts as normally I'd just buy a 24 inch Victa for the blade plate ,I've seen the complete 24 mower advertised for $50. occasionally.
Looks like a good job to get the Power Torque to fit.
This should prevent the PT on the slasher from kicking back, bitch of a job, 3 trys before I came up with this design but now I know how to make these weights up it will be easier next time. It weighs 3kg. What did surprise me is the weight disc and pulley I got from a PT Tilta Cut weighs 4 kg so Victa were well aware of the shortcomings of the PT motor when it was not being fitted on a direct drive mower using a standard blade carrier
Longshot question but I will ask anyway, is there any chance somebody would know how wide the nut is that is at the bottom inside of the fuel tanks on these 24 inch slashers is because I have to make a spanner to get down in there so I can tighten it up. I had one leaking previously but I can't remember if I made a spanner or how I stopped it from leaking. I think it is about 20mm wide but it would save me a bit of time if I knew the size My only other option is to see if JB Weld or Araldite around the nut will hold it. Any thoughts
I haven't looked at a 24 tank for a while but if the fuel tank connector is the same as the other Victa tanks it should have 2 flats ,I usually just hold the inner nut with a big flat head screw driver ,you could use a flat bit of steel or long pliers .
I'm not sure why it takes 3 kg to stop kick back with the power torque when I have a power torque 460 motor that I removed the blade plate and I couldn't get any kick back, the weight on the crank is only a little more than older standard power torque motors.
Hi Max, Hadn't thought about the standard tank nuts I can check that out, the main problem I am having is once I get the spanner I have made up down in the hole I can't see to get it on the nut. The reason I ended up with 3kg in the weight was that it took that much lead to fill the disc I had made up so that is what it got
I've always just used a big flat screw driver and you can feel the flat on the nut with the screw driver Norm.
I was just wondering if possibly the v belt and blade setup on these mowers slows down the starting speed when you pull the starter cord making kick back worse than normal so you may need more weight on the crank with a 24. Not really sure without trying the 460 motor on a 24.
Couldn't hold the nut Max, so it got JB Weld so see how that goes. Strange thing though the tank had about half a litre of what looed and smelt like old engine oil in it. Glad I pulled the tank off to seal up the nut and I was able to get all that gunk out of it.I certainly would prefer not to have to make up these weights for these PT's but I see in the future F/C's might be hard to get and all we have left is PT's to fit on these slashers so I put the hours I have spent on it as research for the future Anyway just an update the PT motor on a 24 is an excellent motor but it requires the extra weight on the crank. This one makes not the slightest attempt to kickback and it is running a decomp valve with no restrictor in it. Next time I will try one with half the weight in it, I will make the pipe 18mm long and fill that with lead and see how close it gets to kicking back. It is all trial and error to get it right
Another update on this machine, if anybody cares. On this carby I have cut both the springs to about 20mm long above and below the diaphragm and it is working perfectly so in my opinion all the rubbish about you must have this certain spring is a load of rubbish. I have been playing with the spring lengths for a long time but from now on I think I will just use the 20mm rule. It removes any pressure from the lifter and just allows it to lift up and down easily, infact the diaphragm cap came off and the motor ran fine, only reason I need the cap is for idle adjustment and to keep the dust out.
Yes MF, but I sometimes cut them down as well, I have always cut the long spring in half, but I am finding that even shorter than half seems to work better. Lately I just get the long spring, cut about 20mm off each end and use them both sides of the diaphragm. Works fine for me.
Whatever you do don't dump any Super 24 bits. I'm in Brisbane but my brother is in Canberra and Eden. Surely we can work something. We travel between those places about once a year.
I'll have to find a way to courier them to you NormK but where to start. Do you want the base and very rusty handles also? I too can't bear to dispose of them when they're apparently so wanted.
Ahh, if only victa had kept producing the thumblatch catcher series, they would be in better shape today!
Hi MF, rusty handles no problems every part for these is important but I don't want you going to too much trouble as long as they don't get thrown out.
