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Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 248
Widget Offline OP
Apprentice level 3
Hi all,

Started tinkering with a HK30 Victa imperial reel mower today, trying to get it running. I've been viewing this page https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=72729 There were a number of issues, the first being a rusty fuel tank (on the inside) and a blocked fuel tap.

I put some brown vinegar into the tank, see if it does anything overnight. Looking at it, I can't open the tank up without undoing the folds, so I'll have to do what I can to chemically remove the rust.

The fuel tap I took apart and put it through the ultrasonic cleaner a few times with vinegar. Cleaned up quite well but it was completely blocked with crud. One thing I noticed are the o-rings. The first o-ring/seal seems to be inside the fuel tap, hard to take a photo, but it may have become damage during the cleaning. I put it all together and inserted the plunger, then put some water in it. Didn't seem to leak, but not sure about fuel. Is there anyway, in case it's damaged, that I can remove it and replace? I tried to remove but it didn't budge.

the second were two o-rings on the plunger (see pic). One is flat looking, not sure if it was suppose to be a different style or whether it's just flattened with age. Looking at the parts list (linked about) I can't figure out what the correct o-ring specs should be. It says part number is 25-202, though that engine exploded view says it's for HK25 model, I'm assuming the HK30 wouldn't be much different ?

[EDIT] Random question. When I put Vinegar into the Ultrasonic cleaner, it was cold (straight from the bottle). After a period of time using the Ultrasonic cleaner, then vinegar became steamy and hot to touch. Anyone experience this, or know why?

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

Last edited by Widget; 21/10/22 10:41 PM.
Portal Box 6
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 219
Likes: 10
Apprentice level 3
G’day

I’ve resurrected a couple of 16” Imperials, they’re robust machines. The most difficult to resolve problems I’ve encountered are corrosion around the exhaust port and scoring of the bore.

To fix the fuel tank I’d get hold of a POR15 motorcycle tank kit. They work a treat, they strip out the rust, neutralise it and convert it before priming and recoating the tank. I’ve done a few tanks using the kits and been happy with the outcomes. There’s even a red lining colour that closely matches the original.

Ultrasonic cleaners usually heat up whatever solvent you’re using. The machine is converting electrical energy to ultrasonic waves and some of that energy is transferred to the solvent. It pays to keep a close eye on temperatures as I’ve distorted plastic parts previously.

I can’t remember how I fixed my fuel taps, I do remember using cheap “o” rings the first time and ending up with the whole thing jammed and leaking though. Maybe someone else will be able to help out.

Cheers

Ironbark

Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 45
Likes: 1
QSR Offline
Novice
You can find victa fuel tap o rings online that work with this fuel tap or a universal oring kit should have the sizes you need.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/353032283886?hash=item52325d26ee:g:C7MAAOSwv7pehSow&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoB9pQD8OKaQkVxDwbjoniqntSstI3DP88RcbpIX46pbqcgAtdwC2jBVSZP2Zofh0DQ5%2BsCmRRIkeeglfOkVHT5ikD7Vu9oqqCJO6zy94ubFTVFS%2Bcw2GSbIVh3TkbScb6TBWA9cGMC0X3MhINH2m7m3xqLx5tumUN15xlcQS%2BpoyJQm%2FjuLy2%2FvMUE2oJ2m%2F0cjgpOTwDZPr4tLz0e7Je7E%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR5zxjMSAYQ


QSR
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 248
Widget Offline OP
Apprentice level 3
Originally Posted by Ironbark
G’day

To fix the fuel tank I’d get hold of a POR15 motorcycle tank kit. They work a treat, they strip out the rust, neutralise it and convert it before priming and recoating the tank. I’ve done a few tanks using the kits and been happy with the outcomes. There’s even a red lining colour that closely matches the original.

Ultrasonic cleaners usually heat up whatever solvent you’re using. The machine is converting electrical energy to ultrasonic waves and some of that energy is transferred to the solvent. It pays to keep a close eye on temperatures as I’ve distorted plastic parts previously.

I can’t remember how I fixed my fuel taps, I do remember using cheap “o” rings the first time and ending up with the whole thing jammed and leaking though. Maybe someone else will be able to help out.

Thanks Ironbark smile. I had a look at the 'POR15 motorcycle tank kit' you suggested, and though it looks good, it's just a bit much $$$, especially for this mower smirk. I do have some rust converter solution around here though, bought a while back from wither SCA or bunnings. Might give that a try after removing most of what I can.
There's some sort of pipe in the tank too that looks pretty bad, I think it might be a filter of some sort. Do you know what it is ? I might have to take a pic of it.

Regarding the Ultrasonic cleaner. I've used water, detergents and IPA before, but never had it heat up let-along to the point of steam lol. Perhaps because of the acidity of the vinegar ?

I have some o'rings here, but they're Metric and I'm not too sure what's they're made of. Got them from ALDI some months back. They came in a kit of 420 pieces and are black in colour. I'd say they're a type of rubber, but not sure if fuel-safe. They do say "do not use in food or drinking water pipes".

From what I'm reading, I think the o'ring I need is 'Imperial', but I don't know what the size means. The manual I'm reading from says '25-202'. I've removed the front o'ring and measured the section on the tap, it seems to be smaller than the back o'ring. My calipers read;

Front - 5.5mm / 0.21". O'ring C/D unknown due to being compressed.
Back - 6.2mm / 0.24". O'ring C/D - 1.5mm / 0.06"

[EDIT] Seems 25-202 might be a part number, not a measurement.


Originally Posted by QSR
You can find victa fuel tap o rings online that work with this fuel tap or a universal oring kit should have the sizes you need.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/353032283886?hash=item52325d26ee:g:C7MAAOSwv7pehSow&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoB9pQD8OKaQkVxDwbjoniqntSstI3DP88RcbpIX46pbqcgAtdwC2jBVSZP2Zofh0DQ5%2BsCmRRIkeeglfOkVHT5ikD7Vu9oqqCJO6zy94ubFTVFS%2Bcw2GSbIVh3TkbScb6TBWA9cGMC0X3MhINH2m7m3xqLx5tumUN15xlcQS%2BpoyJQm%2FjuLy2%2FvMUE2oJ2m%2F0cjgpOTwDZPr4tLz0e7Je7E%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR5zxjMSAYQ


Thanks QSR smile. I don't have an Imperial kit (only metric) so may have to look into getting one. I'm still unsure of what sizes I need as the front o'ring seems smaller than the back o'ring. I can't measure the front as it seems compressed/aged.

I sent the seller on ebay a message asking about sizing too. Thanks for the link smile

[EDIT] Seems 25-202 might be a part number, not a measurement.

Regards,

Last edited by Widget; 24/10/22 05:31 PM.
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 219
Likes: 10
Apprentice level 3
I’ve had a few things get pretty warm including when I used diesel as a solvent on a gummed up drive chain and when I sat some carburettor components in a jar of carby cleaner.

In your case I would speculate that it may be a combination of both a chemical reaction occurring and the ultrasonic.

The POR15 kits are expensive but they are bombproof and you can get a lot of uses out of a single kit. I did a couple of tractor tanks with one kit. There’s also another brand, cheaper, not as good, but probably fine for a mower. I can’t remember the name but it used to be stocked by a couple of auto parts shops.

I’ll have a look inside one of my imperial tanks and post back about the “pipe”.

Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 248
Widget Offline OP
Apprentice level 3
Took some photos of that pipe in the tank. Inside looks bad, also turns out the tank has multiple pin holes which would need repairing smirk.

Purchased some o'rings from that seller on ebay. Not the ones listed, he's gonna send me the proper sizes. Hopefully that'll fix the tap, though with the tank looking like this, haha, probably won't help much smirk.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

[EDIT]

Turns out the pipe is just soldered in. I took out the butane torch and removed it. Full of gunk, a little rust but intact.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

Last edited by Widget; 26/10/22 02:31 PM.
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 45
Likes: 1
QSR Offline
Novice
Once you sort out the rust are you going to solder the holes up?


QSR
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 2,052
Likes: 146
SENIOR TECHNICIAN & HISTORIAN
G'day Widget,

You could just put the tank in a bucket of white vinegar for a couple of weeks ,that would remove all the rust then you
would have to neutralize the acid to stop the metal rusting again.This would save taking the tank apart.

Cheers
Max.

Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 248
Widget Offline OP
Apprentice level 3
Originally Posted by QSR
Once you sort out the rust are you going to solder the holes up?

Yep, will try to. There's quite a few pinhole-sized holes. If I can't solder, I might have to look into a fuel-resistant putty and fill the holes.

Originally Posted by maxwestern
G'day Widget,

You could just put the tank in a bucket of white vinegar for a couple of weeks ,that would remove all the rust then you
would have to neutralize the acid to stop the metal rusting again.This would save taking the tank apart.

Cheers
Max.

Thanks Max. I used some double-strength vinegar, which has helped some, but would need to soak longer. The holes make it a little hard as can't soak that area, the vinegar leaks through smirk. I tried separating the tank, but I can't undo the folds, which is a shame as that would make it much much easier to fix the inside.

Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 219
Likes: 10
Apprentice level 3
You could try buying vinegar concentrate. It’s available in many bulk food stores and is 10x cheaper than in supermarkets. They usually sell 2x and 4x as it’s watered down for catering. It might say “acetic acid quad strength” or similar. Half fill a laundry bucket with this and soak the entire tank. We used the same method for rusty chain, just have to be careful to neutralise and seal immediately or rust will run rampant again.

Another solution is “rust converter” you can often get that cheap in sales at industrial suppliers. It’s safer to handle and some brands leave a paintable surface. We bought two 20 litre drums in a sale and it lasted for years. You could reusue it over and over again.

Molasses can also be effective but unless you’re on a farm or similar you’ll be unlikely to have that within easy reach.

Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 2,086
Likes: 80
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
Ironbark is right, head down to a bulk store and buy a 20l drum, lasts forever

With regard to molasses, go down to your local ag shop or stockfeed store. I use it on the garden and from memory I got change out of $30 for a 10 or 15kg tub last time, but probably gone up since then. most good stockfeed store will have a 44gal drum full to decant


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