OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Engines Questions On Victa Two Stroke Engines Rebuiling VICTA 2stroke engine...

(I had a previous topic regarding the model/series of this engine/mower & was directed here for the repair of it https://www.outdoorking.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=62668&#Post62668)

Hey guys,

I picked up an old VICTA 2 stroke series 80 Mustang that, unfortunately, needs a little more tlc than I thought. At this stage I have little to no experience with mechanical work, but am planning to do as must as I can on my own to cut costs & learn etc.. however, am having some hiccups I'm hoping to get some feedback/suggestions,



issue #1


So apparently this piston is buggered.. just wondering if there was a way to get a cheaper (used) but good condition piston somewhere? Other option would possibly pickup a piston kit (around $35) from ebay or 'pushmowerrepairs'.

i had a look at the bore(?) and it doesn't seem too bad, a great deal (will double check) still seems smooth.. however, there does seem to be a little surface rust.

re: bore rust - can I use 0000 steel wool and carefully clean the bore? I really don't want to get anyone to hone it as I can't afford it right now.



unfortunately, while removing the flywheel by using a hammer + long screwdriver (to pry with), I seem to have made a slight flat bit on top of the crank shaft (i think that's what it's called) which prevents the nut from screwing back on. I'm thinking I'll need to either

1- re die the thread, does anyone know what the thread is?
2- get a dremel and carefully grind back the flat section so the nut can screw back on.

suggestions?



while cleaning the muffler, I noticed it's actually split at the opening. I don't really have access to a welder, but do you guys think this is repairable? (solder maybe?) or should I just hunt for a replacement?

Thanks guys, any and all feedback is much appreciated

regards,

For future reference you have use a 3 point puller to remove the flywheel from what I can see of the flywheel. Here I use a harmonic balancer puller and brass hammer. I mount the puller, tighten up the slack plus a little extra tension smack the center puller bolt to jar the flywheel loose. Sometimes it might a couple retighting of the center bolt to get a good jar to loosen the flywheel.

As for the flared crankshaft end file it back down so the nut slips back over it and that starter doesn't hang it.

Muffler are something tends to rust from the inside out so a replacement would be better.

I agree with AVB. You can make a flat plate puller, or buy a harmonic balancer puller. There are three cored holes in the flywheel near the center, for the puller screws.

I'd just file a 45 degree chamfer about 1-2 mm across on the end of the burred/bellmouthed thread on the end of the crankshaft. You should then be able to screw the nut onto the thread normally.

A replacement muffler in better condition is the most practical solution for the fairly huge crack you have there. If it were a vintage car part, and therefore irreplaceable, I'd oxy-weld it to form a bead of steel weld rod right around that flange at the corner that has cracked, building up the thickness to about 3 mm in the process. There doesn't seem much chance of MIG welding it, since there isn't much metal left, and what there is has been damaged by metal fatigue.

Have you considered getting another old full-crank Victa 2 stroke engine from a tip shop or abandoned on a nature strip? The rest of the mower doesn't need to be in usable condition of course. Otherwise you may find the cost of a piston and rings will make your project uneconomic. Don't attempt to use piston rings that have been used previously in another engine - they will not usually bed in satisfactorily. You can hand-polish the bore of your cylinder with emery cloth or wet-and-dry abrasive sheet so long as it is 400 grit or finer. Clean the whole cylinder casting properly after you've worked on the bore - you must not allow any trace of abrasive to end up inside the engine.

Thanks guys Didn't realise there was a puller for them , will have to remember that next time. Would I need one to re-assemble the flywheel back on?

Thought as much regarding the muffler, the crack does seem a little far gone, ill certainly keep an eye out for a cheap one or a cheap spare parts mower. What other mowers/series would match the 2 stroke Mustang for parts?

Roughly, once the mower is up and running, how much do they usually go for? I payed about $21 for this one, a new piston w/ rings is around $35 + Ill need new gaskets which are a few bucks each. All up I could be spending close to an extra $50 on spares/replacements.

Thanks again guys, all feedback is much appreciated

Regards,

~ Dave

That looks like your garden variety 160cc side starter engine, if you have a full list of parts you need/want shoot me a PM I have plenty available, there will be a good piston and std bore available, (depending on your location postage might be a killer) at worst afterwards you might need a set of new std rings, crankcase seals and head and base gaskets. at present I have a good bare one of these engines in my carport.

As for resale price, where I am I am lucky to get $80 for a good second hand mower unless its something special, in the cities prices can go close to double that, hence why I no longer sell used mowers, its more profitable to part them out.

Hi MrMckay, thanks for the reply

Haven't gotten a list yet, but hopefully it won't be big. So far it's just a piston(+rings) and gaskets I need to pick up. The muffler 'might' need to be replaced if I cant repair the split, but so far, still dismantling/cleaning parts, then Ill lay them out on a table and see what i've got. Haven't got around the the carb yet either .. hopefully that just needs a clean.

Im from NSW too, but yeh, postage I think will add up. Roughly how much would you say a 2nd hand piston (in good condition) would go for compared to a new one ? That's probably my primary item for now.

Oh, and just wondering, what do you guys find to be a great degreaser for cleaning the parts? I've used "Koala Kare RTU Degreaser" (from supercheap auto), but seems a bit slow/weak on the harder grease/grime.

I generally use Chemtech Workshop degreaser or Septone. Both have the same composition. If you are ever in the position of having to use a hammer to remove something from a threaded shaft again, always leave the nut on, unscrewed to level with the end of the shaft such that you are hitting nut and shaft together and use a piece of hardwood or a soft metal between the shaft and the hammer, that way you won't wreck the thread.

An option would be to use a Brass hammer if you must use a hammer. I use one here for taking CV joints apart when I am rebooting them. It prevents damage to bearing surfaces.

I know this is an old thread, for future reference you do not require a puller for this Series 80 flywheel. The flywheel sits on the shaft with a flat on the crankshaft to secure it is a parallel fit. Just a good clean, WD40 and a good wiggle should be all that is needed to remove it. This works for the electronic ignition version.