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Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,421
Likes: 36
Repair Junkie
****
Basic repair video for Briggs & Stratton Engines.


Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 21
Novice
Thanx Bruce.

I have a Rover with a B&S engine. It starts on the 2nd pull normally but runs very slowly for the first minute or so.

If I give it too much throttle it stops. After a minute or so I can gently increase the throttle setting to the full position and it runs at full revs with no issues. There is some old fuel mixed with new fuel in the tank.Is this relevant ..?

regds,

John

J
Joe Carroll
Unregistered
That is the same guy as davids farm on youtube, he has a nice car farm.

Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 43
Novice
Hi John, never muck around with old fuel, it has a very short shelf life. You can buy fuel stabilizer but I would not use it after 6 months. 3 months and the bonds in the fuel molecule break down and you get more "knock" in your engine. The old lead fuel used to stop the knock but is a health problem. Oil breaks down as well. Even if you are not using the engine. There are all sorts of additives in fuel and oil these days that react to cause breakdown. The extra cost can help to preserve your engine and give you better start up response; increased performance; and fuel economy. Let your engine warm up for a while, but not for too long, when you increase the revs you get higher oil pressure on a 4 stroke and hence better oil pressure to lubricate pistons and bearings. Cheers.

J
Joe Carroll
Unregistered
There is no oil pressure in a briggs motor, it is flung about by a wheel running off the cam.

I dont usually have problems with old fuel, as I usually run mine dry, as for warming it up, I let it run for about 10 seconds then it is full throttle and mowing.

Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 43
Novice
When you run the engine at full throttle you will get higher pressure even from splash systems, the faster the liquid moves the higher the pressure, a liquid compress a bit, but less than air. The wheel creates pressure on liquid and air, the highest pressure is on the solid moving parts as they strike each other. I rembember changing a gasket on an old 4 stroke mower that had oil pressure behind it. The advice for modern engines is to get going ASAP. I buy small amounts of fuel. Water contamination is a also a problem with all sorts of liquids, fuels, and lubricants, especially brake fluid. My uncle used to have a cheap green small chain saw and the fuel would boil in it after a brief period of work and the engine would stall. Stihl has a new 4 stroke that uses a fuel oil mix. I have a mulcher that has a two stroke Briggs and Straton engine. My sister used to have a B&S Rover and had all sorts of problems with it. But it was badly maintained. I have a problem with a governor on a B&S, I think the spring to the carby from the control arm on the governer is over strecthed, I have not tried to fix it yet.


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