OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Restoring, Customising and Modifying Reel-Type Mowers My SB45 - Isolation Project!

Thought I'd add my little project into the mix. I've had my mower for 15 years or so. It's a 17" Model 45. Currently in bits as I gradually spruce her up a bit.

[img]https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipM218Xj3lDJbDq9b9yVSam7IX2geA7SIWujk17s[/img]
[img]https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipNjJgON3eE54Q6nHdQmUeEF5b4fguT14EHQnFMS[/img]
[img]https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipPOhlHAR80rIe_LTzzn34rstbKeYPakoF33CRdi[/img]
[img]https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipNZF_wwVKw_g9Lgd3z2maBEIYVGr1KxI-TSzmwA[/img]

The drive chain had snapped and its been a little neglected for a while. Any feedback and advice would be gratefully received thanks!
Can anyone can tell me the year of manufacture from the pictures?

Currently the reel and bed knife are in for sharpening, the rear roller assembly is apart and the chassis sanded back and primed. I have some hammertone paint that I've had matched as best as possible which I'll get onto at the weekend. The rails are not cracked and the plan is to get a new B&S rather than refit the original motor.

I've just had a hernia operation and my gallbladder out and can't do anything strenuous for a few weeks. Perfect time to potter about on the mower.

Hey Smelmechiz

Was interested to have a look at your project but unfortunately im unable to view any of the photos?

Hello Smelmechiz and SLN,
Yes, it's best that you follow our Help Topics and
use our server: -

https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/u...images-or-docs-to-my-post.html#Post87412

There is good reason for this!
Hosting site accounts come and go and your capacity to be helped,
or help others remains limited.

We are keen to see these images, but many folks will
not have google accounts - some for practical reasons;
some for privacy reasons.

I personally prefer not to... simply because Google is not trustworthy.

Hope this helps.
-------------------------------
Jack

So I've gone to the bottom of the class for not reading the help topics. I feel suitably ashamed of myself.
I've given myself a bit of a pep-talk and I think I'm right now.

Ah it's all good, you're certainly not a Pioneer here that's for sure.

Well it seems you have a fairly well used 45 there, but in saying that there's nothing that can't be fixed.

From appearances I feel you've got a 1976~77 built machine there but looking at the engine codes up the side of the engine cowl will pretty much reveal all as I'm confident in saying that it has the original engine fitted.

If you can give us the numbers stamped on the cowl I will be able to more accurately date it's birthday.

Still plenty of life left in the reel but the cutter sprocket I'm not too sure of as the photo isn't a close up of that component. BTW that bend in the reel blade can be easily remedied with some careful manipulation.

That's about it for now.

Cheers,
BB.

Thanks for the feedback. I'll get the details from the motor tonight.
Hopefully the picture below helps regarding the drive sprocket.
In the meantime, I have the reel getting sharpened and straightened today along with a new bottom blade and bearings. One of the reel bearings was very rough.

What's the best way to tell if the chains need replacement or are salvageable?

Hi Smelmechiz,

That cutter sprocket will certain go for another round in my opinion.

As far as chains are concerned, just push the chain around it's sprocket starting from one end and see if it feels tight and snug at the other end of the teeth available on the sprocket, if there's some longitudinal slack or it doesn't fit absolutely spot on as you stretch it around, then it's time to change it on these slow running drive trains.

Cheers,
BB.

OK Great. Cheers for your help Bonnar_Bloke.

Struggling to find the engine codes. Been hunting around the engine cowling ......

They are located in the section of the cowl that's located right alongside the carby.

Hi Smelmechiz,

Great minds think alike. As we stare down the potential of isolation/lockdown for a few weeks or months, it's made me stock up on restoration supplies as I finally might have enough time to get back into my own. Most people are falling over each other to buy toilet paper and Panadol, I'm getting paint stripper and etch primer. Ha!

You're in the safest of hands with BB and I'll be keen to follow your progress as well.

Em

Thanks emk3. Had to laugh at your stocking up priorities lol. Last thing you need is to run out of Primer! Love it.

I've had my reel and blade sharpened and straightened as well as the reel bearings replaced. On the weekend I did a bit more painting and found that the reel bearing housings were in bad shape. I've ordered some fresh ones as well as a new front roller - that may hold things up for a while.
I haven't removed the clutch yet so I'll probably get onto that at some stage soon.
Here's a picture of the reel before sharpening. I used the International Orange, maybe should have gone with the Signal Red?

BB - I'll have another look for the engine number tonight.

Smelmechiz,

Remove the clutch as a matter of priority. You just never know - you could be up for a new clutch half and bearing, so it's best to check before the rest of your parts are sent. Make sure the clutch bore and keyway has not been chewed out. If you try to re-use an old clutch half that has a bit of play in it, you may end up paying for a new motor, which is more expensive in the long run...My understanding is that you can clean out the clutch bearing and re-pack with grease if need be. However, if it has been flogged out, you may need to order a replacement.

Em

Hi Em and Smelmechiz,

In all honesty those clutch bearings are quite robust and really don't do that much work anyway.

If the machine it came from hasn't been left out in the rain over long periods of time you'll find that a removal, good clean and re-lubrication is all it will require and thus it'll do many more hours worth of work, also they ain't cheap in any case.

The clutch body as em suggests is a very important part of the driveline and must run totally true to lengthen the life of the chassis and as you have a twin railer which is far more susceptible to stress fractures than the one piece Solid deck versions you must preserve it the best way possible. If the body shows any left and right movement while rotating the engine via the starter cord you can consider it either a throwaway or have it sleeved for reuse again.

Cheers,
BB.

PS. Thanks for your very kind words Em.

Thanks for the info. The mower has always been kept under cover since I've had her. Her condition seems pretty good considering how old she is. I'll check the clutch body out for movement as you suggest BB.

Hi Smelmechiz,

Yes make sure the body is done up tight on the shaft and then slowly operate the recoil starter rope to turn the engine over and note whether the body outer edge moves left and right while rotating. If it does don't bother going any further with that body, just remove the thrust bearing and hang on to it. Then either discard the old body or send it off to be properly line bored and sleeved, this way it'll be able to be used again as 5/8 bodies are currently not available to purchase anywhere as the supplier into the country is having big issues getting them, ofcourse they are all now made in China........where else ?

Cheers,
BB.

Thanks BB. I removed the clutch body last night and it looks good to me. No play on the bearing.
Also - I managed to locate the code on the cowling. As follows:

80102 0233-01 74101703

Hi,

The production date of the engine is the 17th of October 1974 so this way if the engine is still the original unit then the mower itself will have probably been made in early 1975 around January / February.

Cheers,
BB.

Awesome info. Thanks BB. I would have been 8 when the engine was manufactured. The engine has lost a bit of grunt, much like myself......

cumon now lets not talk dirty LOL !