OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Walk Behind Lawn Mower Frames Question On Scott Bonnar Cylinder Mowers I want a Scott Bonnar - but which one?

Hi Crew. Just chanced upon this site tonite, joined up and here I am posting.
I have been looking into the "reel" scene for a few weeks now. When I first started thought it would be simple but there appears to be heaps of different versions of the SB out there.
Simple question, and apologies if its been asked (but couldn't find anything with search); which model should I seek out and buy? I want something in the 17" range as I have plenty grass to chop (experiment with).
I'm also a bit clueless when it comes to working out where the model number is located so any help there appreciated.
And come to think of it, any model of engine preferred?
I'm also worried that this sharpening that is referred to will eventually consume the reel...are spare parts wishful thinking or are there options?
Thanks for the site and look forward to your replies.

Hi basso, and firstly, a warm welcome to the forum.
To explain, Scott Bonnars' domestic range of cylinder (reel) mowers were taken over by Rover Australia years ago and they discontinued all with the exception of the Model 45 which they badge-engineered as the Rover 45, and is still current today, being a 17" machine.

All parts (including the cylinder) are still available for this model, and therefore it is the one I would recommend. As this was a very popular model, there are plenty out there in the second hand market; eBay especially. Prices seem to vary according to condition, but $200-$450 should see you with one in reasonable nick.

The model number (and mower serial #) plate is located on the rear crossrail, right behind the cutter clutch and usually consists of 6 numbers starting with 45xxxx.
The Model 45 Scotty comes (usually) standard with a 4 stroke Briggs and Stratton being normally in the 2.5 to 3 HP range. but you will find some (like my own) that have been retro- fitted with a Honda engine which is an easy conversion.

You mention cylinder wear through sharpening, it all depends on the use of the machine; ie, the lawn should be free of any foreign objects (rocks, any metal) which may chip, bend or break a blade....If the cylinder and bottom(knife)blade are set correctly, sharpening is only necessary approx. every second season, depending on use. Sharpening is done by a engineering workshop on a grinding lathe; both the bottom blade and cylinder being lapped together. Very little of the blade surface is removed. My Scotty is still on it's original cylinder, and it was manufactured in the 80's.

Pics of my Model 45 are in the forum topic "Old Mower Pics", you might find of interest.
Parts list and manual for the Model 45 are available in the Parts and Manuals topic after subscription. Just click on "My Stuff" in the top toolbar, scroll down to "Subsriptions" and follow instructions.
Also, why not drop into chat and say hi, we're often on line after 8pm.
Best of luck with it, let us know how you get on.

Hi Darryl, thanks for the tips re sharpening...any idea what the usual cost for this service is just so I have a ballpark idea?
There are some oldies advertised that mention they need a sharpening so keen to get an idea.
Over here in Perth most Rover 45's are between 1250 and 1500 in the mow shops. They also tell me production of this model has ceased. On the private scene, if you are lucky you might chance upon one in the 850 to 950 range.
I kinda view the Rover as the upstart anyway and just can't get my head around them. As a kid it was always the Scotty, with its peculiar shade of green that hooked me.
You mention the model number as 45xxxx...regarding the "xxxx"...is any one preferred over the other?
So many questions...so little time...

Hi basso,
You could find out from your local lawn bowling club the name of the firm that sharpens their greens mowers and contact them for a price on a 17" reel......depending on the condition of the bottom blade (you may need a new one) and they can supply one for you(not too expensive at roughly $30) I pay $70.00 for a sharpen. Once done, they cut beautifully.

Regarding the Model No's, mine is a Model 450520. I don't know if there are differences between the models, but from the parts side, they are all the same....known as the Model 45.
Try eBay....search term: "Scott Bonnar" as see what pops up.
Good hunting,

basso,

If you require parts we can supply them for you just drop us a line.

Thanks Bruce. Its a great site and will definitely keep dropping in and asking questions.
Speaking of which...what is the difference between a Diplomat 430 and 590? I know that it is the rear catcher model but cant find any other info.
Help appreciated.

Bruce, subscribed to manuals section but can't access. Tried the usual resetting cookies and refreshing browser...no luck.
Looking for a manual and info on a Diplomat 590.
Thanks

Able to access the manuals after actually reading the instructions! Thanks Bruce.

By the way...didn't muck about...picked up a 590 today...needs work though but price fair.

First problem: I'm chasing a new belt and picture of how the belt should be fitted around the pulleys...mines a dodgy and is engaged all the time...anyone out there mind taking the cover off their 590 and posting a picture?

Second issue: Need to source the adjuster for the front roller. Presently its a bolt but thats kind of hard to adjust without a spanner.

Pics here...

basso,

Can you post a picture of the area where the belt goes as I need to see it in order to give you the correct advice on how to the correct setup .

Here you go:

Thanks!

belts they usualy use chains on those ones? looks pretty original its a great find
keep ur eyes open for one with a jap engine ther realy cool

Hey rhys95, You're right there, I have only seen chains used, but then, I have never seen inside the chain case of a Diplomat. Nice machine tho!!

Hi All, for archival purposes, I will now close the thread.