do not waste your money repairing a PT when there is millions of them still out there.
Hi Norm,
There may be, but I don't have millions of them. I find some cheap ones that meet the criteria of what I want to restore and I buy them and fix them. To date, I haven't found one by the side of the road that meets the criteria that I'd normally look for, but I'll keep looking. But the reason I do it is for fun. While it can be frustrating, it can be very relaxing as well. As I said though, for me it's a hobby.
A straight fueled PT is going to need a rebore and O/S piston
Obviously, I don't go out there looking for a straight fueled and damaged bore. But if that's what I happen to come across then I'll work with it. Why, because I can haha. I agree reboring begins to become costly, however, I do have a hone and I could try honing to clean up the bore and if it works, great!
I was searching around the forums here and found that people had previously said not to hone it, but you may need to bore it out. Is that only because boring it will get a more accurate result? Something I saw was that people had recommended reboring instead of honing because the results of honing could end up leaky rings and additional wear over time. I have 3 questions surrounding this. 1, If you hone correctly (And for a while), shouldn't you end up with almost the same result but not the same surface finish as reboring (An oversized cylinder)? 2, If the concern over honing is that you may cause additional wear over time due to the increased piston size, wouldn't you end up with the exact same issue if you rebored? It's not like a typical engine where you can insert sleeves due to all of the ports, so what's the advantage, other than a smoother more consistent bore? Finally, if you use an oversized piston and rings, should you have much play and cause additional wear? Isn't that the point of putting those oversized pistons in there, to clear up the gap you just created, which should essentially take it back to like brand new, just a little larger? Or does it have to do with wear based on the crank moving the piston?
I would still detach the fuel tank and fuel hose out of the carburettor and check that it's flowing out the end of the fuel hose reasonably well and not dribbling slowly. Just another thing to eliminate.
Hi Mowerfreak,
Thanks for the advice. What sort of flow rate is to be expected? Assuming the tank has one of those long fibrous filters which is entirely covered with fuel? Should it literally be pouring out at full speed? If not, I'm assuming the components involved would be the tank cap, filter, tap, and hose?
Fixing these things is fun, even if it costs a bit of money. It's cheaper than cars! Nice little hobby returning stuff that isn't really "broken" back to working order. It's the feel good factor, even if it's all new to me
Hi Mystyler,
Cheers mate, it does sound like we're on the same page and I completely agree. I'd love to work on cars but you've got to worry about storage and rego and costs and finding parts and more and more and more haha. Mowers are small and quicker and easier to work on. And exactly, it's about having fun fixing them up and restoring it to its former glory and getting that feel-good factor in there. As mentioned before, I just don't like to see something good or serviceable discarded in this throw-away world of ours when it can be used, and used well, with just a little maintenance. If I owned a mower shop I'd probably never leave though haha so it's a good thing that it's a hobby that I do when I have spare time, I can be a bit of a perfectionist (Who still makes mistakes, we all do) which slows me down lol.
