Mark, I haven't flipped a worn Honda PCV valve disk, because I think that would make the situation worse. As the disk wears, a larger area in the center comes into contact with the stop, which is the inside of the pressed steel top cover of the PCV compartment. By flipping it over, you reduce the contact area to the small flat in the center of the stop, which would substantially increase the wear rate. (On the worn one in the picture I posted, that area had at least doubled during the wear that had occurred. Turning it over reduces it to what it was when the engine was new.) You also put all of the load onto the part of the disk that has worn thinnest.
My standard practice if I take the head off, is to measure the bore. So far with small Hondas I've found consistently that when the engine starts to smoke mildly due to ring wear, the bore will be worn 0.002" larger than standard. On those engines, so far I've been able to just replace the rings (with good quality sets - chromed top ring, chromed steel rail oil rings), look quickly over the other internal parts, check that the valves are sealing, and put it back together. I haven't yet needed to remove a crankshaft, let alone replace oil seals, and I may not have to remove the flywheel. (I was fooled on one occasion though: the previous tenant had stripped the internal thread in the output shaft, and I didn't find out until I'd put the mower back together. I had to go back in and replace the crankshaft.) However, I've had a couple of engines that had been abused - a second owner continued to use them without repair after they started to smoke slightly. Those ones, so far, have been run a long time with dirty oil and have worn bores, worn connecting rod bearings, and a multitude of other wear problems. All I can save from those is external items plus fasteners. Don't knock the idea of keeping spares of that kind - sometimes you can get a "bucket of bits" engine, which the seller always swears is complete, but never is, for $5 and make it back into a good one.
