A rear facing utility, except for the cover having the fuel tank out the front they were the best of the lot.
Ive had some issues with spark shorting out on the side facing ones in long wet grass.

Power torques are good to use too, nice and low and you can shove them in under things.


First up i would suggest that you fix the starter, you will not generate spark spinning it by hand, you may using a rope around the starter cup. Its easiest with the starter.

To fix the starter can be a pain, its trial and error.
Is the wheel the cord goes around alloy or plastic? There are two tabs that throw out when you pull the cord, you can remove and reverse them. The outer edge that contacts the cup needs to be nice and square so its bites. How does the surface inside the cup look??? A new one is only $8 or so.
Also the recess in the main pulley where the throw out tabs go wear, the tabs sit needs to be square, they wear at an angle over time. I have not tried to sort this one yet, ive got spare starters layed on.
Make sure the spring is nice and smooth. If its not you may have to strip the starter and clean the spring with wire wool to get it smooth. Ive seen plenty that have had water in them. Go easy with WD40 etc on reassembly, dont want that dripping down in the starter cup.



Then once the starter is fixed you can get into it and get it winding over and check spark again. Ive had a few older points ones here that have had no spark, 10 or more pulls later and the sparks come back to life all big and fat. Must just have been stuck points from sitting.
Ive found it best to always grab a new spark plug. Most times its not needed, "a new plug and it will go" usually means ive got no clue whats wrong with it so i will tell you that so you feel good buying it, but i have been caught out a couple of times with plugs that looked OK that were dead.


If you do need to get in under the flywheel, its probably best to buy an electronic module for a power torque and wire that in. It costs the same as a set of points and a condenser and its no where near as dificult to set up.


Another tip is, before you fix anything, undo the nut that holds the starter cup on and take it off. Then spray a heap of CRC/WD in around the shaft, dose it up well and put the starter cup back on. Then if the flywheel needs to come off you could be in with a fighting chance. They can be a bit rusty/cruddy. The three holes in the top of the flywheel tap out to 6mm as they are and you can use a 3 leg puller.
You can also use levers and the like but take care not to damage things. A few sharp raps with a hammer on the bumps on the top of the flywheel can also help.


Cheers, Bob.