1. This motor is very loud. I was thinking about packing the exhaust chamber with metal pot scourers or the like to quieten her down. Is there anything better to use>
I don't think you'll have much success packing the muffler - steel wool usually burns, and it blows out whether it burns or not. The muffler probably has a baffle plate inside, and this has been eroded by exhaust gas until it has a hole straight through, in just the wrong place. You might consider separating the two halves of the muffler and then welding it back together with a new baffle, replicating the original one but perhaps a bit thicker.
2. What is the best solution to replace the nuts and bolts
Are they Whitworth? I doubt you can get new ones with Whitworth heads, but you can easily get bolts with Whitworth threads at your local hardware store.
3. Is there a close to original (and durable) paint that I can use to repaint the chassis.
Deejay is the Scott Bonnar guy - he has well-proven answers for that one.
4. Is there any way to tell when it was made. It has a kirby engine.
The Kirby engines were Lauson (i.e. Tecumseh) engines made under licence in Australia. The following is an extract from Tecumseh's 1990s manual explaining their engine number system - but it may have been different 40 years ago when they made your engine:
Using model LEV115-57010B, serial 8105C as an
example, interpretation is as follows:
LEV115-57010B is the model and specification number
LEV Low Emissions Vertical
115 Indicates a 11.5 cubic inch displacement
57010B is the specification number used for properly
identifying the parts of the engine
8105C is the serial number
8 first digit is the year of manufacture (1998)
105 indicates calendar day of that year (105th day
or April 15, 1998)
C represents the line and shift on which the
engine was built at the factory.
Engine Family: Engine Tracking Information
5. Does anyone have any insight about removing the engine from the chassis. It appears that the shaft near the clutch has a bolt without a head- does this need to be removed to separate the shaft from the engine.
You may find that you cannot remove that headless bolt - it is probably a captive cotter pin. You loosen the nut, tap it back and forth gently with a soft hammer, and leave it loose to slide it off the shaft. Yes, you have to remove the clutch to remove the engine.
