Thanks Norm,
just for future reference, as I always have the diff locked for the hilly area I mow, would a Greenfield without diff lock be just as effective as one with (in locked position)? I assume it would, but....... And if so, did Greenfield make 34 inch units without diff locks?
I work the mower fairly hard because of the slopes and although the area gets more and more manicured, I still hit the odd rock or two, and have in the past broken decks. Drive failures seem to occur as per MattDT's 2019 Greenfield Fastcut Transmission overhaul (short shaft) post- stuck in forward or both forward and reverse simultaneously- hence I've had a play with rebuilding a transmission (although without the knowledge that MattDT made accessible in his post- hence a less than perfect effort). Up until now I've purchased second hand units with a few hundred hours on them and run them successfully for 4 or 5 years (I average 60-70 hours mowing per year) before I break a deck, an engine fails or the drive clags up. I then buy another. Lack of cash prevents me spending the big dollars on a new or nearly new unit, unfortunately.
Prior to discovering the wheel problem described in my post above, I had just finished the transplant of a transmission/drive unit I had rebuilt a few years ago (rebuilt meaning pulling down and replacing corks- not going to the lengths I should have) from a defunct a 20hp unit (governor failure as per my first post many years ago) into my current 13hp unit. I noticed that the main visible difference between units was the use of cuphead bolts and nuts securing bearing shells (?) to chassis in the 13hp, meaning the cut out in the clutch pulley is needed, whereas in the 20hp unit standard nuts and bolts are used, and there is no need for a notch in the pulley. I've yet to test it out, but I'm hopeful it will work long enough for me to do a proper rebuild of the removed drive, paying careful attention to MattDT's wisdom, which seems to suggest biting the bullet and spending close to a thousand dollars on new components such that I should get many years of trouble-free drive......Should you or anyone else have any knowledge of issues associated with such a transplant, please let me know.
Oh, and I'll let the forum know should my wheel stud fix not work as hoped. Otherwise you can assume the bolts welded in nicely and the wheel was reattached.
Thanks again.
