OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Walk Behind Lawn Mower Frames Question On Scott Bonnar Cylinder Mowers Restoring Scott Bonnar 45, 14inch

Hi there guys,

After having recently purchased yet another scotty, I have been inpsired by Deejay and have decided on restoring the old girl. I purchased it for $350 off a guy on ebay and it presented well... After a hunt around for original paint codes... I have decided to go for a green hammertone colour.... which is quite close to the original paint colour.... I have departed from original in relation to the stickers... i am hopefully going to get some stickers made up.... The engine is in great nick and requires no work.....

I have two questions though.....
1) On the front of the handle/handlebars, there is a green plate... it looked like there was some kind of sticker/painted emblem... anyone have any pictures of these? or could point me in the right direction???

2)Where the horizontal shaft enters the engine, my scotty has developed a small oil leak... very small... just leaves a damp spot which the grass sticks too.... it appears that the seal around the shaft may have let go... anyone got any info on replacement of this seal?? i.e. part numbers.... level of difficulty....

I have included some 'before' pictures.....





thanks in advance guys.... will post up pics as the 'resto' comes along....

adb,

If you supply the model type and code of the engine we can tell you the part number for the seal.

Hi adb, and it's great news that you have decided to restore your Scotty, and thanks for posting the before pics.

As you will see in the pics of my old girl, I have strayed slightly from original, in that I have powder coated my cylinder reel in bright red rather than the orange, and have done the clutch cone and engine shaft also in red. The chassis is all original paint scheme.

Here is a pic of the handle bar cover with the original sticker (which now are impossible to get, as they are no longer made) but you may be able to make one....

Hoping this helps and looking forward to seeing the pics as you go along.

Thanks for the picture deejay.... i'll try and get it copied as close as possible.... looks like it could be quite tricky.... yeah i did notice that you painted the cylinder reel and clutch cone in red.... i reckon that looks awesome.... i'll be leaving my cylinder reel 'as is' at the moment... when winter comes around and the reel goes off for sharpening... i'll paint it up then....

Bruce..... the engine is a B&S 2HP.... i found these numbers from the previous owner.... 601020302017005123??? seems awful long to be an engine number!!! the model number on the plate is 4517046...
does this help??

cheers

alex

Hi Alex, Just a heads-up here, mate, you mention that you will be removing your reel for sharpening in winter time, well that exactly when all the greenkeepers will be doing the same.... Once the engineers set up their lathes for the large reels 30-36" they will not reset the lathe to do a small reel usually, until all the others are complete....and that can take literally ages. Now is the time to sharpen...However, check with your engineer.;)

Strangely enough the very long Briggs & Stratton number is not a serial number - it tells you the year, month and day it was built, but nothing unique to that specific engine. Your engine is a model 60102, type 030301, possibly made on 12 May 1970, but you seem to have one too few digits in the last block (there are usually 8, not 7) so I can't reliably guess where one is missing from. The 60102 is a very long-running model, it has been going on forever. It is 6 cubic inches displacement (about 99 cc). The oil seal you are not happy with is in the timing cover. Replacing it should be fairly straightforward - so much so that it isn't even mentioned in the B&S overhaul manual, as far as I can tell. You would need to remove the clutch, clean the exposed part of the crankshaft, remove the screws that hold the timing cover, and slide the timing cover off the crankshaft. You then press or drive the seal out of the cover and press or drive in a new one. Putting the cover back on is the nearest thing to a tricky part: you mustn't damage the sealing lip on the inside of the seal, so you coat it with something like grease after you have polished the crankshaft to a high lustre and cleaned and oiled it, or you use a very thin shim between the seal lip and the crankshaft, then slide the shim out when the cover is back in place. Remember, to pull the seal off the shaft you are going in the easy direction, but to put it on the shaft the seal will be fighting you, which can easily damage the lip. However the joint in a wrapped shim can damage it even more easily. Any tiny nick in the new lip is likely to leave you with a worse seal than you have now.

thanks deejay and grumpy for the advice.... i may just take the reel out for sharpening.... or wait another season as it's in pretty good nick....

I have stumbled on another problem.... I have taken (or tried too!) the clutch cone apart.... i can get half of the clutch cover off... but for the life of me i can't get the damned clutch cone off the shaft.... I have undone the nut, that i assume bolts the cone to the shaft... but i can't get the damned bolt out.... i have tapped it with a hammer (and stuffed the thread at the top!), soaked it with WD40... nothin... won't budge.... now i can't get the nut back on as the top of the thread on the bolt is slightly curved over..... aaaaarrrrrrrgggggggh!!!!

any help.... ideas????

also... just quickly... where is this 'cork' stuff supposed to sit in the clutch?? i can't seem to find it????

still not found the cork...should it be in between the two halfs of the cone?.... still can't get the clutch cone off.... managed to nip the top of the bolt that was folded over.... put all back together.... gave a nice coat of gloss black....

Does that bolt that won't come out move a bit then stop? It may be a captive cotter pin - if so you just loosen it and then it will allow the clutch-half to slide off the shaft.
Clutches often (usually in fact) have a plate that provides a friction surface to the two metal faces. This both increases friction and supplies an easily-replaced wearing surface. Cone clutches traditionally had a leather surface attached to one half of the clutch (that is, one of the matching cones), but this one may use cork instead to do the same job. It will be between the male and female cones, and it is supposed to wear out eventually.

yeah.... it moves abt 5mm then stops... i have loosened it... and can't get the clutch half off... feels like i am going to pull the shaft out of the engine!! lol......

yeah there is definitely no cork... there is a piece of leather that is i think the engine clutch lining.... me thinks that the cork has burnt out maybe between the two clutch halves... it was working fine before i took it apart tho....

Hi adb, as your machine is a slightly earlier model 45, I don't know what the cutter clutch lining was made of, mine is made of cork and is glued to the periphery of the outer-half of the clutch housing.
Have you downloaded the manual?
Why are you pulling the clutch apart?

Yeah I dunno deejay....definatitely nothin between the two halves. Basically I am taking things apart to see how they work.. I'll clean them, paint, then reinstall...lol!!! I took the reel of tonight (very easy after reading your instructions)...gunna clean it up tomoz and paint it up... Bearings are all good!!! I have a generic manual..

g day all thought i might speak a little on my experience the first time i tryed to remove the engine clutch housing [alloy] from a 5/8 tecumseh engine shaft rover 45/17 the engine clutch bearing was rooted as was the keyway being alloy so i asumed the bearing was the start of the problem or that the cotter pin nut was a bit loose so it had been chattering on the shaft and that was the cause of the housing being flogged out this inturn puts stresses on the shaft seal also rooted! but someone had been there before the end of the shaft hade been hit with a hammer i think so it was burred on the end ever so slightly so i rigged up my puller but it would only shift a little so in the end i cut it off with a hachsaw once removed from the shaft i could see some rust but also where a hacksaw had been used before as it the shaft has a cut line in it rust doesnt help either at this point i was up for a new clutch housing and engine clutch bearing which is well worth replacing the reson why it woulnt come off the shaft was two fold rust and the fact that some rough house tactics had been employed in the past i worked on the end of that shaft for a good halve hour with file and emery paper so the new housing could slide on and off cheers steve...

Steve, sometimes when a shaft has rust and/or damage you can push the flange, hub, or clutch or whatever further onto the shaft, then clean up the end section of the shaft before you try to pull the flange off over the section that had been rusty.

Hi grumpy, yeah mate, I now remember that I too had a hell of a job getting the cutter clutch apart, I damaged the shaft as well with a hide faced hammer and in the end had to buy a new shaft, plus the thrust bearing was shagged, but got it all back together again, but I couldn't of done it without the illustrated parts list in the genuine Scott Bonnar manual.
It showed where all the bits go, in the right order...most important!

hi all.... after much cursing... i still can't get the damned bolt off... i cracked the s&#ts and put it all back together.... I am just waiting for some stickers/decals and then i'll post some pictures... It's funny when she is all back together... the colour is definitely different.... sort of a pale greeny blue hammertone... not sticking with original at all... but much better than rusty old green!!! lol....

Hi adb, glad to see that you've got it all sorted, I can't wait to see the pics mate...

its near impossible! to get the original hammertone green that scott bonnar ltd used on the 45's without knowing what the base of the color was.

Hi Steve, I have just spoken to a mate who works for a company in Wagga called Riverina Wholesale Traders, who is an excellent 'eye matcher' of industrial refinishing, and supplies paint for restorations of tractors, cars and has done some early Victa stuff.

He has asked me to bring in a sample from my Scotty and he is prepared to spend the time to hopefully come up with a formula for the Model 45 by reverse engineering it. In other words, getting the base colour correct and then chemically introducing the product that produces the 'hammertone effect, rather than trying to tint a proprietory hammertone paint(such as Galmet) which he has tried, and it doesn't work.
So, here's hoping....