OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Finding and Swapping Tip & Curb Side Finds My Victa And Some Hard Rubbish Finds

Hi Converse, $20 is the max you want to pay for a non runner unless it has good set of wheels and base, I usually base mine on about $10 for a non running one. One issue you have there is the fact it is missing the fan shroud and they are unique to that top you have and I have not come across any spares. It has the straight inlet manifold which means if you want to fit another standard cowl and top you have to change the inlet manifold to the offset down one. See if it runs, go through the standard test procedure, then you can decide what to do about the cowl

Hi NormK,

Thanks for that mate see how I don't know about these new models. Oh well I did have a look around the yard where I picked it up and I didn't see anything else near this mower that may have been on it. I don't even know what this fan shroud looks like?

Oh well I just thought it's got to be worth $20 just in parts alone when I grabbed it, yes it's got an excellent base, near new handles and throttle control housing, and the wheels are in good condition.

Cheers!

Hi NormK I have had a look at some photo's of these mowers on the internet and I think I can see what you mean by this shroud, it sort of covers from around the bottom near the fins on the flywheel up to near the top of the cowl?

See I just thought the top cowl is all that screws to the top, a bit like an older Victa.

Yes I will wait and see if it starts and runs first before I go searching for any parts it may need. This part may still be available new as a spare? If not i'll just put it aside until something turns up one day.

Cheers!

They all have the shroud, it is there to direct the air from the fan so it flows all around the barrel. If it is a runner you are way in front. The shroud id rounded off on the front right hand corner and it is also about 50mm higher in the rear so the fuel tank can sit above the carby because it has the straight manifold. The offset manifold can be fitted and then you can use the standard setup which is far easier to obtain and I have truckloads of that stuff

G'day NormK and thanks again for all the help mate, see I probably would never have known and ran the mower without the shroud as I don't know much about these new model Victa 2 strokes. So thank you very much for pointing that out as I am new to these models.

I have been searching the internet for pictures on this model engine and parts lists to possibly grab some parts if they are still available.

Check out this video out I found on youtube, it's the same engine as the one I found and they were selling it on Gumtree a few years ago, I think it is missing this shroud also by the looks of it? What happens if you don't have the shroud? Probably would get a heap of rubbish getting into the fins at the bottom? But it would also make the engine run hotter as it helps to direct the air around the engine as you said?

Cheers!

Missing the shroud as well, that shroud is specific to that top, the one above is a Tornado which has the longer crank shaft. I got one of those motors on a standard base and when I looked at it properly the blades were sitting way below the skirts, not a flash idea. Without the shroud cooling is pretty ineffective and stuff can fall down onto the fan and break the fins off

Hi NormK and hi Converse,
I would like to have warned this guy but the clip is from 2015. Probably blown up or worn out prematurely by now, unless he or the new owners realised this mistake early and found the missing shroud. Victa wouldn't include this part and the cost of making this major part just as a precaution. I admit, I really never thought of it's air direction before this thread and just assumed it was to stop the cover vibrating and prevent debris hitting the fan. Basically, this plastic part takes the role of the metal shroud on the old full cranks and is much cheaper to produce. Another clever production saving from the Powertorque engine.
Is that top specific to the Tornado? I have fitted one to a regular base mower (shroud included of course!) and with regular shaft length engine with bent manifold. Updated its appearance well.

MF the top will fit fine on a standard motor as long as you have the correct shroud. Remember the shroud also has the fuel tank support and this sits higher so it clears the straight shaft manifold and carby, if you fit the off set manifold it will give a bigger clearance over the carby, doesn't matter though. I have one here at the moment that I picked up last week that looks very original and had not done a lot of work and it is a short shaft with the Tornado top on it. If you look at the NOS Victa 2 strokes that are still on ebay they have that top on them

The funny thing is NK, they won't go on a high arch alloy thumb latch catcher chassis as they won't clear the chute, despite being more elevated, yet at least one other post-thumb latch top I have fits well and just clears the chute and updates it's appearance very effectively.
I'm not a fan of that grey top's style, but there no denying it updates it's looks to potential buyers and it looks smart enough.

MF, I have never tried it but I guess the small rectangular top with the small fuel tank moulded in might fit because it is shorter and might clear the arch. And an update on the Tecumesh motor, she is a dead one as it has no compression

G'day there Mowerfreak and NormK,

Hey that blue Victa you have a picture of there Mowerfreak looks to be the same era as the one I recently found? It has the exact same wheels on it and the deck also looks very similar.

I think I will go outside and see if I can get this new scrap yard find started, the problem I have is I have no fuel tank and line to use for testing, as the one I found has been broken off at the tap and I don't have any spare taps or lines to use for testing.

I will just remove the tank and line from the older powertorque mower I have to sit on this one somewhere to see if it will start for now.

Oh well let's see what happens, hope I come back with some good news...lol

Cheers!

Here is the older 1980s hi arch with newer style top I mentioned earlier, showing how it just clears the chute on the older alloy base from the 80's.

Hi there Mowerfreak and NormK,

Gees I see how close that top cowl is to the base Mowerfreak. Just fits.

Ok where do I start with my recent scrap yard find.

Well first thing I did was check for a spark, held the spark plug against the head, turned the engine over a bit, great we have some spark.

Then I plugged on the fuel line from the temporary tank I borrowed from the other mower. Fuel was dripping quite a bit from the bottom of the carby where the white cap seals. I just thought ok it's dripping a bit but maybe it will get enough fuel to start, nope nothing at all.

Next, removed the spark plug to check if it's wet, nothing it looks dry. Hmmm what to do next. I then thought i'll take off the white cap on the carby just to have a look inside to where the fuel is leaking.

Took out the needle and float. Had a bit of a look and just chucked it back on and tried again, nope same thing but this time the leak wasn't as bad.

Then I took the white cap off the carby again, this time I thought bugger that red needle i'll turn it the other way and see what happens. Put the cap back on and tried again, nope nothing will not start.

Took the spark plug out again, it looks dry. Well I've heard of you guys using starter fluid or something in the spark plug hole. I didn't have any of that but what I did have is a fuel line and a nice flow of 2 stroke petrol...lol Guess what i'm using! lol

Yep took the spark plug out, shoved the fuel line in the spark plug hole for a few seconds, maybe about 2 teaspoons of fuel went in. Then reinstall the spark plug.

I set the throttle to full run position, and after about 4 or 5 full turns with the starter cord, it fired up! Runs for about 10 to 20 seconds until it runs out of the fuel I chucked in then it stops. I repeated this and it done the same thing again. It sounds ok when it's running it even has a decent idle.

I'm thinking the carby will need a rebuild that's for sure, the white cap is cracked and missing a bit on the outer edge and the rubber seal isn't sealing tightly at all. Also for you guys that have worked on these before with the straight intake manifold, mine only has 3 screws in it. I am thinking it should have 4 right? Well one is missing on this one. So I am thinking I need to possibly change all the rubbers on the inlet and install all the screws also.

Cheers!

Converse well you look like you have a runner. You can't turn those needles around one end is pointed.The straight manifold has 3 screws, the off set manifold has 2.The fourth screw hole you can see is for the off set manifold. Primer cap "O" rings always need replacing otherwise they just leak, don't over tighten the jet to try and stop it leaking.Don't worry bout the inlet rubbers, they don't cause any problems, only had one on the inlet that had a chunk out of it, only one I have needed to replace. At this stage you out of the woods, it isn't drawing fuel in, most likely this will be the float needle, you will need a viton tipped one, don't waste money on the plastic ebay ones, they don't work. The next possible reason for it not drawing fuel in is the pull start "O" ring, take it off, make sure it is ok and wipe a smear of silicone on the face of the "O" ring and refit it. This will work ok for testing purposes.
See how you go

G-day Norm K,
do you mean silicone lube or the sealant?

Just the basic roof and gutter silicone sealant

G'day NormK and Mowerfreak,

Thanks again for all the help with this it's great!

Ok that's good to hear about the inlet manifold only having 3 screws, because I was thinking it had been messed around with and I need to go over it properly. But if that's how they are then it might be ok.

Yes the carby does need some new bits, the red needle looks old and faded. Also did they have different coloured poppet valves on later carbies? The poppet valve in this one is coloured yellow I think, and I am also learning about these letters on the end and different settings? I don't think I ever noticed this on the old G4 carby on my full crank? Did these old black poppet valves in the G4's with idle screws have letters and settings on the end of the poppet valves?

With the pull start "O" ring you mentioned NormK, would this cause it to also run fast at idle or something if there was a leak?, because I managed to get it to idle pretty slow with the throttle control even with dumping fuel straight into the spark plug hole.

But yes i'm happy at least it's a runner. I tell ya what when it started it's quite loud, but I don't think it's as loud as my full crank..lol. Also my other powertorque is really loud but I think that has a rusted out muffler! lol

Cheers!

Converse first thing you need is a viton tipped float needle, don't waste you time with the plastic ones, they just don't work (even the viton ones can be a bit problematic) The thing with the pull start "O" ring is if it is leaking you have lost suction and it will not draw fuel through the carb. It is obvious you have no fuel coming in because as you say the plug is dry. Only 2 things cause this float needle and the pull start seal, I have not come across one where the bottom seal was leaking. One other thing you must check is the main jet in the primer cap, you must be able to see cleanly through the strainer, I blow on them to make sure they are clear. As for the noise, they are all pretty noisy except for the Vortex I had, but it has an aluminium cover over the barrel and also it is fully enclosed inside the cowl and it has the CSIRO designed blade carrier that is also supposed to reduce the noise

Thanks again for all the help NormK it's great,

I think what i'll do is get a new white cap and seal for the carby and a new needle and float, also check out and clean the main jet.

Maybe I can get away with just changing these to see if I get some fuel into the engine at least.

Then if I still have no fuel entering the engine I will have to look at the top seal under the starter like you mentioned.

Cheers!

Be careful buying those bits, you can get stung easily. I bought $850 worth so I could get them at the best price. Removing and sealing the starter is a 5 min job

G'day everyone,

Driving to the shops last night I saw some hard rubbish in a side street so I thought i'll go past for a closer look for any mower bits.

Anyway I noticed a black plastic catcher on the side of the pile so I thought bugger it i'll get out and grab it as it looks complete. It was dark and I couldn't really see it properly at night I didn't even think it was for a Victa.

Anyway when I got it home last night I checked it out with a torch and I was glad it's a Victa catcher, but what suprised me the most is that it looks like it's never been used!

I was looking for the usual scratches, cracks and missing peices etc along the front lip, there is nothing at all! Even inside the steel mesh looks mint.

Have you guys ever come across an old catcher in this condition before? Every catcher I have ever found has been broken and cracked along the front lip. I have 3 broken ones. This would have to be the best most perfect catcher I have ever found!

Remember I was telling you guys how I never used to grab catchers because I thought they wouldn't suit my mower. Well now I grab anything at all. This was a really good trash find and i'm happy with this catcher! It just shows you it pays to grab anything you see as you never know what you might find.

I've added some photo's of the catcher below. Check out how perfect the front lip is on this catcher. I can't believe it. It also looks like these catchers had a manufacture date stamped on the plastic, going by the stamp i'm assuming this catcher was made during the 10th month of 1987. So it was made in October 1987.

Cheers!

70% of the catchers I get from the side of the road are Victa and I am really on the hunt now for any old Victa catcher regardless of the condition of the plastic. I'm after the metal screens to fit in those current model ones that are fitted with the fragile plastic screens that in most cases is either missing or damaged beyond repair

G'day everyone,

Just an update I ended up buying a brand new shroud for the scrap find mower, it was only $12. I tried it out on the mower and it fits perfectly.

I just want to ask a question about these plastic moulded bits on the bottom of the fuel tank, I'm not sure what they are there for as this mower was taken apart and bits were missing when I found it.

I have taken a couple of close up photo's of the bottom of the fuel tank where this bit is located. It looks like those smaller clips are there for maybe clipping the fuel line or something to it? I am not to sure and also I don't know if there is any more parts missing that might go here.

Please any help would be much appreciated.

Cheers!

Sorry Converse, don't know never taken that much notice of the underside of the tanks, but I think I have seen a couple like that. Ais I said if I have a cowl and tank and it fits then that is what it gets

G'day NormK and thanks again for all the help mate.

Guess what, I did a search on the net for a Victa fuel tank and there is a seller on ebay selling the exact same style cowl with tank and they have a picture of the bottom and it still has the fuel tap and line connected. Great it shows exactly how the fuel line clips and runs around that plastic peice on the tank.

So I sort of was on the right track thinking it had something to do with clipping the fuel line somwhere.

Well that saved me alot of stuffing around trying to work out what that part was for. I was almost ready to head down to the local Victa Gold Dealer to have a look at a new mower in the showroom. Thankfully finding this picture was much easier! lol

Cheers!

Hi Converse,
I'm pretty sure that plastic moulding at the bottom of the tank is to take up slack of the fuel line, nothing more. I recall seeing something like that on some more modern Victa tanks.
As for your catcher, things must be different down your way, I have found plenty of those catchers in undamaged condition (I only found one recently and didn't even bother taking it -I have plenty of spare ones but now wish I grabbed it anyway.)
I like that your one has the twin grip label so intact, only one of mine still has it. That's another sign of how little use it's had.
I found a thumb latch in pristine shape in a mower shop dumpster years ago but with the latch mechanism missing, so stored it for a few years only to discover it fitted my Victa Twin!! I got the latch off my old cracked green VC Mustang catcher and it fitted straight on.

Hi Mowerfreak,

Thanks for the help mate I was just lucky I found that picture of one with everything installed.

You know you keep mentioning that dumpster behind the mower shop, and now I sometimes have a look at the back of the mower shop here as they also have sort of a laneway and a dumpster behind the shop! LOL! But I think it may have alot of traffic and pedestrians going past there that nothing would probably stay there long if they dumped it..lol One day I might just crack the lid open on the dumpster and have a peek inside, you never know what might be in there...lol

On the mower that I found as you can see in the photo the fuel tap is broken off and the end of the tap is still in the tank. There was no fuel line at all when I got this mower. I am slowly getting the parts to get it working again.

I haven't been on the hunt for catchers for many years now, but recently I have found a couple that both have broken missing front sections on the lip. That last one I found I was shocked as it looks like it never got used at all. Probably because I have always found buggered catchers around here.

I am still not sure what to do with the older red powertorque mower, it's got a really rough rusty looking deck and it really needs a tear down and a rebuild. I am thinking of giving the deck, rear flap and handles a new coat of paint. It looks that bad.

Any tips on what's a good paint for the deck? I think I will just use some gloss black pressure pack for the rear flap and handles.
I need to get a nice red for the deck and I will probably just use some pressure pack red as it's easy. Do you know of any good ready to use spray cans in red for a mower deck? I could just use those cheap spray cans from Super Cheap Auto or something. But I am thinking how good is that paint when it comes into contact with any fuel spills? lol

Cheers!

Maybe engine enamel like Chevrolet red. I'm sure that could take whatever you splash at it -except maybe blood from one of those xenomorphs in the Alien flicks.

Haha thanks for that mate, last time I was in SCA I had a look at those VHT High Temp engine enamel spray cans for the deck, yes it's not so much for the high heat but for it's petrol resistance.

One had a cap that looked red but it had Chevrolet orange on the tin. I might have to check out Autobarn they may have more colours to choose from.

You know I just got an email from SCA and they have those el cheapo Australian Export spray cans on sale now at $2.09 a can! LOL! It's so tempting to just go down there and grab a few of them. But I know it's cheap and the finish will probably be garbage and also it will just wash away the second a drop of fuel touches it..lol

Cheers!

G'day everyone,

Just an update on the red Victa Pace Powertorque mower I found at the scrap metal yard a while ago. I finally got around to replacing the missing parts and put some new bits on the carby and the great news is it started first pull.

I have installed a new fuel tap and rubber line, new carby primer cap, new float, new jet and new needle, all genuine Victa items.

I actually thought it wouldn't start up at all, nope away she went on first pull! It's great and as a test I just mowed the whole backyard with it and it seems ok.

The throttle control housing screw I think needs a little tightening as it's a bit loose and the throttle was moving a little on it's own from the vibration from the engine.

I am suprised how slow a tick over the idle is on this mower, only thing is the slowest idle point on the throttle control is almost near the middle of the control, I have never used one of these newer powertorque mowers before with the newer throttle control so I am comparing it to the throttle control on my 1982 Commando full crank.

The only thing I noticed is after mowing for a while it started to surge and rev faster on it's own as if it's running out of petrol. I almost had no control of the engine speed when it was doing this. I checked the tank and it still had quite a bit of petrol in it.

That's probably the only issue I had with it. It feels like a fanstastic mower and I think those 4 blades on the bottom do make cutting a bit easier when compared to my old full crank which only has the 2 blades.

Cheers!