My mates Super 250 just won't start..... it's only 48 years old and done heaps of work.................. I put some fuel into the carb and it started......, did it a couple of times.... Been googling US forums and one said just keep priming and after 10 starts it might pull the fuel through... Anyway I took the Tillotson HL63 carb off and want to clean it.... A kit cost $56......my father in law reckons the thing is not worth $56..... so I want to tread lightly and clean the carb, maybe it will work again with some carb cleaner and air.................................... try to keep the old gaskets...
He's going to give me a ride on mower that doesn't go either.......... fun goes on , when time permits
speedy
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hi Dieselboy I took the carb off and tried to lever the sections open with a blade and squirted in carb cleaner..... tried to take it apart without destroying gaskets.. Just to get it going. It kicked over, even used engine start spray..... There's spark, and heaps of compression. It's a workout to pull it over a few times....... I will check the points, as it has contact breaker points.... See if plug is wet...... cheers speedy
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Parts are nearly impossible to get for these old saws if is the McCulloch as they have been out business a good number years now. If it has good compression and fires on a fuel mix prime then the carburetor is likely the root cause.
With this being 48yrs old I would not expect the gaskets will loosen without tearing. And getting a kit is best if available and you are willing to buy one as they are expensive now due they are becoming rare, plus you have to pay a premium because of the currency exchange rates.
I checked the air flywheel gap , set it to 17 , slight spark, points area dirty........ My ozito water blaster does the job at $ 87. Just checking it all over...... is so dirty after 48 years....
speedy
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I have to reface points and set. and maybe check condenser.... But I guess to turn motor over you go on other side clutch area.... My mate is not in hurry and I have a lott \\ on ..... but it's relaxing just settling into a problem........ i sold his mums old rover for $50 so I owe him some time...................... cheers speedy
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Refaced the points gap 20 th inch, set gap flywheel 17 th inch .... I soldered a loose wire ends coil to points..... now I have no spark........ I'll check a connection to coil. It's electrical...................... Just got to check a solder job. speedy.........
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Thanks Gadge. I set the flywheel gap and it got a good clean and checkup. I must have a short , where the wires attach to points post. There's a fibre sheet.... I'll check speedy
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I have got spark. Just couldn't see it in the light........ Not a big spark. It didn't kick over even with starter fluid, then my arm wore out.......... Try again soon.
........................Keep your blades sharp......................
I put a kit in the tillitson carb, and a new fuel line. It didn't kick over, I want to check the reed valve..... But how do you get to it? It's under where I took the carb out, removed 2 bolts, and the handle bolt... there's the oiler rod...
speedy
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Yep, that airbox does have to come right off, as the reed plate is sandwiched between it and the barrel.
By the look of that IPL I've linked above, there will be two external slotted screws that go through lugs at the front of the airbox. As well as the two internal hex bolts, and the handle screw. Look at Fig 4 as well as Fig 1 to get the idea.
Cheers, Gadge
"ODK Mods can explain it to you, but they can't understand it for you..."
"Crazy can be medicated, ignorance can be educated - but there is no cure for stupid..."
I would have to take oil and fuel tanks off...... new gaskets etc. I shone a light through the inlet and could see the reed valves. They looked ok, seating and not bent. I put my thumb over intake and could feel them pulse when I pulled the starter, so I will take them as OK.
But a weak spark, found a washer on the flywheel magnet??? Anyway took the flywheel and will recheck points and wires. Someone suggested pinched wires.... maybe a new condensor.. Here's a tip I read maybe here about how to hold a flywheel to take the top nut off. Just thought I bring it up for ones who didn't know the easy way to hold a piston in place with telecom rope or light rope.
Nice rain in Bundy lately, missed the tennis ball size hail and the two tornados.............. cheers speedy
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I seen where you say it had heaps of compression but did actually measured it?
Here I use 100 psi as a measure of minimum compression for a starting 2 cycle engine. Below that I seldom get one to start. It can be just stuck ring(s). I also had a couple Stihl 2 two cycles lately that had plenty of compression according to my gauge but losing it just the top of the compression stroke due upper cylinder damage.
Hi Norm, I have a module from a 160 full crank, I think. Anyway I connected it up, you need to keep coil, but points and condenser went. Not a big spark, but I could feel a bit of voltage in my fingers.... Maybe a better coil and module would do the trick.
Hi AVB I'll try to get a compression gauge and test..... cheers speedy Bundy
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