A VC-160 with EI would be interesting. Matter of fact, a 1960s Corvette with EI would be interesting! You could then mount a SuperStart sticker on them haha!
Ahh, if only victa had kept producing the thumblatch catcher series, they would be in better shape today!
The only thing I can represent the contactor and condenser electronically is to use a TRIAC with some components around it. I attach a concept drawing and calculation to represent the circuit. This module has been around since 1980 and TRIAC already been developed since 1970 as an electronic switch. In my calculation I tried to use 4.3k and 240 Ohms resistor for the 5V divider. That means when you measure the resistance between the pin and ground is equal to (4.3k + 0.24) is equal to 4.54k. I don't know what's the actual resistance of the module. It maybe different from my chosen values.
I ended up changing out the points and condensor last night, I have checked the points that I removed and also the condensor with a multimeter.
The contact points seem to be making a good contact and were probably still fine after I gave them a clean, but anyway because I had a new set I changed them out.
I also tested the condensor (capacitor) on my meter and it also seems fine and was probably still ok to use but as I had a spare I just changed it anyway. I also checked the kill switch on the carby lever, and it also worked fine and was not shorting out.
Now here's the funny thing and I am kicking myself a bit. When I replaced these with new parts it still didn't seem to have a spark, now I am thinking maybe the coil is gone or there is something wrong with the spark plug lead that runs from the coil to the spark plug. I checked the screw at the end of the lead which is inside the spark plug boot and it's very clean and didn't look rusted at all. So anyway I removed the screw and noticed inside the wire looked a little corroded. So I put the screw back in again and screwed it in the wire more to try and make a good contact. Bingo I now have spark! Damn and I even remember NormK mentioning this a few weeks ago when he didn't have spark on his mower, but because I knew this mower used to run and the screw/wire looked clean on the outside I assumed the connection was fine! Damn well you know what i'll be checking first now on any mower I find that doesn't have a spark! LOL!
I looked at the schematic diagram you have there Thecarbymaster, the problem is these days you can buy a ready made module for $20 on ebay shipped to your door.
Yes the original Victa modules and even the aftermarket one's available probably have similar circuits inside to the diagram you have shown on here.
But I think by the time you are to buy the parts and construct the circuit yourself, it's probably cheaper and easier to just buy a ready made unit.
Cheers!
Zip a dee doo dah, zip a dee ay, another trash picked Victa, hip hip Hooray!
Yes it's much cheaper to buy a ready made module than building one. The parts plus time will cost more than $20. At least we understand what's possibly inside the black box and how it could possibly works.
To explain how it works, normally with contact point, the contact stays open 98% of the time and it only close when pushed by the cam. The condenser is used to absorb any arching and store the energy for the next contact cycle. Contact arching can ignite the fuel so we don't want this to happen. Now the circuit works the same thing. The TRIAC stays open 98% of the time while the energy or voltage is stored in the capacitor. That voltage also bias the hall effect sensor through a voltage divider resistor R1 & R2. Assuming the potential voltage is 100V, the supply voltage to the hall effect is 5V. Limiting resistor R3 is used for the TRIAC gate drive current limiting. The hall effect with Schmitt trigger output magnetic sensor turns on when the flywheel magnet pass through it which drives the gate which caused the TRIAC to conduct or short circuit. This cycle will repeat energising the primary winding and discharge to the secondary winding which produce high voltage spark. Next time I would like to design and prototype an inline LED spark tester to detect shorted spark plug, weak spark or no spark or can be represented with inline digital high voltage meter.
Just a question on this Victa Module that's available here at Outdoorking. I read the description and it says that when using this electronic module on earlier 125cc and 160cc engines when replacing points, to use a different coil with a part number "050316-634" that I think is no longer available?
I also checked an ebay seller that has this same module for sale and it says that this type of module suits powertorque engines from 1988 to 1996.
Is this because these later engines had different ignition coils that can work with this module? I basically want to know if one of these modules will work with the original factory Victa coils on early 2 stroke engines with points ignitions?
Any help would be much appreciated.
Cheers!
Zip a dee doo dah, zip a dee ay, another trash picked Victa, hip hip Hooray!
Hi Converse, I can't guarantee they will work with the original coil, but the ones I have converted have worked without any issues. What I have also found is that the modules from the sidepull and the PT work fine. As I said I can't guarantee it but I think they will work fine and I assume the coil number you quoted was for the later motors that used the G3 carb and had the kill switch wire coming outside the crankcase
Thanks again for all the help mate. They don't cost all that much I will just grab one anyway and see how it goes. I will test it out on this old VC160 scrap find I have here and if it doesn't work I always have a spare set of points and condensor here to throw in if I need to.
With that coil number I mentioned I think it was just a reference number for the Outdoorking shop here. I have tried an online search and nothing turns up with that number.
Cheers!
Zip a dee doo dah, zip a dee ay, another trash picked Victa, hip hip Hooray!
Ok so here is a question somebody may be able to answer, I have fitted modules to these motors when they have no spark by just cutting the wire coming out of the crankcase to the kill switch. This works fine but now I have a situation where on my mates 24 which has good spark with points ignition he wants me to convert it to electronic ignition. My question is as the points and condenser are still working, if I just fit a module to the kill switch wire, what happens with the existing spark from the original points? If I don't have to remove the fan wheel to get to the points and cut the wire in there I would be happy to just leave them there
Yes you just want to disable the points so you need disconnect the points from ignition coil or you will have the two fighting other. If the points are left operational electrically can have some odd timing problems. Just aware that you may need an universal version where you change the trigger polarity in case of a positive ground system.
