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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,842
Likes: 14
Moderator
G'day folks,

Norm, the charging rectifier on these Briggs is often just a single diode in the engine wiring harness, external to the engine. Sometimes in the charging wire connector, other times just inline and protected by heatshrink tubing. Otherwise it will be an externally mounted module, which will be fairly obvious.

You may find the downloadable owner/parts manuals at http://www.agriquip.co.nz/about-us/product-manuals useful, as well as the ones on the archived Kingcat site at <http://web.archive.org/web/20141006150849/http://www.kingcat.co.nz/index.asp?pageID=2145897474> - need to copy and paste this one into your browser's address field.

Unfortunately, Kingcat don't seem to have been good at providing wiring diagrams!


Cheers,
Gadge

"ODK Mods can explain it to you, but they can't understand it for you..."

"Crazy can be medicated, ignorance can be educated - but there is no cure for stupid..."
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Joined: Jan 2016
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SENIOR TECHNICIAN
Thanks Gadge, the wiring here is for a 2 wire stator which was then wired to the D/C wire back to the ignition switch. The replacement motor is a single wire stator and I don't have any of the other wiring or the diode. Not sure if I can swap the stators over or if either of them work.

Joined: Jan 2015
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AVB Offline
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
Maybe these docs will help in IDing what you need.

Briggs Alternator specs
Briggs Alternator visual ID chart


Joined: Jan 2016
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SENIOR TECHNICIAN
Hi AVB, yes I have read all that info, what I don't understand is what diode they use and what it actually does. Is it the fact that alternating current is travelling back and forth and fitting a diode allows it to only travel in one direction, therefore becoming a direct current, or is this simplifying it too much?

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AVB Offline
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
Pretty much what it does except it will be a pulsing DC current and voltage. It take full filtering to become pure DC. The output voltage will about .707 of RMS input voltage. This is called half wave rectification. Most Briggs AC single wire stators will be only capable of about 3 amps DC though there is regulator that can be added that will get you to 5 amps. Without the regulator you will only need a 4A 200PIV diode. Larger current rating for diode is okay just gives a larger safety margin. The surge current rating is much larger than the continuous rating mention above. When installing the diode the anode goes to the stator side and the cathode goes on the battery side; otherwise you will get a negative DC output.

Just remember to insulated things once assembled to prevent shorts.

With this being basically using to recharge the battery I would not worry about it pulsing as many battery chargers does the same thing. This why my 12V 5A solar panel charges a battery just as quick as my 10A battery charger.

Joined: Jan 2016
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Thanks AVB, I think I am getting my head around it now, even though charging the battery is probably not that important I just want to know how it all works

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My current issue with this now is trying to find blades, seems like the Kingcat is not too popular out there, looks like I will have to get longer blades and cut them down, no big deal I guess.
Another issue I am having with this is the governor is not functioning and this is allowing the butterfly to start to open and this increases the revs and it won't drop back to idle. I'm not sure how it is supposed to work, it all looks to be in place. Also on these carbies I think the butterfly shaft is prone to wear although I don't think this is the problem here.
Avb, speaking with my son tonight he wanted me to test the single wire for volts. AC volts sort of around 4 volts DC volts climed to 19 volts before it would shut the meter down and start again, sort of start at 3 volts and climb to 19

Last edited by NormK; 28/11/18 08:32 PM.
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AVB Offline
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For the governor you need to check the static adjustment. Basically you rotate the throttle butterfly to wide open while watching the governor arm and note the direction to moves. Then you loosen the retainer on the arm and continue rotating the cross shaft in the same direction until it stops. At which time you lock the retainer back in place. These cross shafts do get out of adjustment anytime one loosens the retainer. Once you get this adjusted try running the engine if it still accelerate uncontrollably check to see you are get any push back from the governor. If none then the governor has failed.

As for testing the alternator (stator) output there is good list of voltages that you should expect in the Briggs Repairman's Handbook manual for the pre-1981 engines. Note this file is about 21 megs.

Briggs Repairman Handbook 1919-1981


Joined: Jan 2016
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SENIOR TECHNICIAN
I guess the simple and cheapest answer here is a $20 trickle charger and keep the battery topped up

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Originally Posted by NormK
My current issue with this now is trying to find blades, seems like the Kingcat is not too popular out there, looks like I will have to get longer blades and cut them down, no big deal I guess.
G'day Norm,
If you have the Cheetah with the 700mm/28" cutter deck, blades are available - the GA Spares BLS3603 type. A Google on that part number will bring up a few sellers.

The OEM type blades, P/No 750543 [flat] or 750556 [fluted] are still available in NZ, and these pages have the blade dimensions and pics;
https://justparts.co.nz/PS-5b3781/product/15-1398-Blade-Pair https://justparts.co.nz/PS-5b3781/product/15-1399-Blade-Pair


Cheers,
Gadge

"ODK Mods can explain it to you, but they can't understand it for you..."

"Crazy can be medicated, ignorance can be educated - but there is no cure for stupid..."
Joined: Jan 2016
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SENIOR TECHNICIAN
All fixed now Gadge, I went up to the mower shop in Narre Warren and got Cox ones that fit perfectly

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