OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Restoring, Customising and Modifying Ride-On Mowers Kingcat Ride-on Mowers

hi been awhile since my last post,i have picked up an old kingcat cheetah 700 and want to "fix er up"any info would be great,11 hp b&s i/c it's rough but will keep me busy,i need a lead on some parts,and need to rewire ignition, wire is melted,need governor spring the long one that goes over the linkage,will keep you posted,



have a good day

Hi gml, to rewire the ignition there is not a lot you can do unless you are talking about the starter motor wiring as I can see the pull start is broken. The next problem you will come up against is you will probably find the stator is toast so you won't be able to charge the battery for the starter motor, not that this is a big problem, it is just something to be aware of

G'day gml,

You can download an Owners Manual and Parts List from http://web.archive.org/web/20141006150849/http://www.kingcat.co.nz/index.asp?pageID=2145897474

This Kiwi mob may still have Kingcat parts, according to their website http://mes.sygnal.com/rideons/

I picked up a Kingcat Puma 1100 a while back which had a 12HP with a broken conrod which I swapped out for a 10.5 I had laying around. The 12HP looks pretty much the same as the motor you have there and I don't intend to rebuild it so if you can post pictures of the parts you need I can probably supply them for you.

thank's Norm,it's the wire's to and from the key switch that are melted,maybe they aren't that important,i had it running albeit screaming its guts out had to smother it to kill it,pull start is missing completely,don't know about stator yet,Gadge thank you i'm on it. aussietrev i may take you up on it once i work out what's what...today i threw some paint i had at it and it smartened it up like a diamond in a goats arse, will post some pics soon

Bit late to tell you now gml but it is a good idea to know where the magneto kill wire is and that it is going to earth out if you need to shut the motor down in a hurry, or pliers to get the plug wire off.

thank's Norm,some question's if i may,where to start looking at reasons engine wants to race no matter were throttle is set,carb has been pulled down and cleaned,..the long skinny governor spring is broken would that be a problem?also two wires coming from underneath(from trans i think) go to solenoid are they a cut out of sorts? thank's

gml, the throttle butterfly is fully open for some reason, most likely the missing governor spring is the cause. No idea what the wires are for without looking at it

Going by the parts list, there's a neutral switch - that would be wired in series with the solenoid coil, to prevent it being started in gear.

Throttles are normally fully open when the engine is not running and then are pushed closed by the governor as the revs come up so if your governor is not connected properly then it will rev flat out. The throttle cable doesn't control the butterfly directly, rather it sets a limit to how far the governor can retard the revs. At least that's my understanding of how these things work. I could be wrong of course, I often am.

thank's again every one,i had it running today and its blowing white smoke,will muck around with again soon at least i know it cuts and the gearbox work's,i am going to rewire ignition switch and do a few more things soon,
look's ok from 50 foot

Flash as a rat with a gold tooth.

guy's what causes the governor arm to flutter back and forward ?

Have you put a spring on it? Because the spring is there to prevent hunting of the governor so if you haven't replaced that it could be your problem.

have got a spring coming hope that is the problem aussietrev,i cant get my head around how that spring work's.we will see, thank's

Hi gml, how did you get on with this one, I'm just putting a motor on one I have here, bit of a dogfight to get at the front left engine bolt. They look like a very rugged well built machine that will not fall to bits like the modern stuff

This is wrong. The whole purpose of a governor system is to maintain a steady desired rpm. They are intentionally designed to hunt for the selected desired speed.

Sounds like someone needs a lesson of governor operations. The spring pulls the governor toward full throttle position and mechanical governor pushes the governor arm toward idle. It is a balancing act and as you throttle up the spring applies more tension on governor arm as to overcome the governor trying slow down the engine. Without the governor spring with proper working governor the engine would only idle.

With a Briggs and many other engines with mechanical governors the first thing you do when you have hunting is to hold the throttle vane steady to see if the engine runs steady or starts to die or accelerates. If it stays steady then you check the static governor adjustment; otherwise, it more likely a fuel delivery problem or air leak.

The reason a static adjustment is indicated by surging if not fuel related is the play between the governor push pin and governor cross shaft arm. You are wanting zero clearance between these two parts. Governor flyweights pivots do wear out so it can come a time that governor will need replacing even when static adjustment is correct.

Governor spring rates are chosen for particular sensitivity with lighter spring rates typically usually used on generators where minimum rpms variance from unloaded to loaded (smaller Governor Droop) is critical for output Hertz to be stable.

gml, the spring you are missing is the "anti-flutter" spring. because the holes in the governor and throttle shaft are fairly large to allow the "Z" link in the rod to slip into place, the lighter spring is slipped on the wire (shaft) then connected, this holds the assembly steady. I would post a pic but am not at home right now.

On the one I am working on in the wiring loom it seems like the charge wire goes to the ignition switch which once the ignition is turned on gives contact between the stator and the battery? As the switch is also missing, this is what I assume needs to happen?, Where is the rectifier is it inside the fly wheel with the stator?

Ok so what I have on this motor is a single wire stator and being that it is A/C only. Does anybody know what sort of rectifier I need to convert this to D/C?