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Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 8,063
Likes: 205
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
I ended up with these 2 Victas in a trailer load of mowers I picked up
[Linked Image]

One has a broken pull cord, not sure what is involved in fixing that yet,so no idea if it runs, the one in the pic runs well, but it has a carby problem in that it is difficult to control the revs. What is involved in cleaning these carbs and is this likely to be the problem and which model carby is it?
Thanks Norm

Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 310
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Apprentice level 4
It's either A G4 or LM carbie, hope that helps.. wink

[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]


Regards,
Paul

Such is life.......
Nothing better than a "GreenField" just mowed..
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SENIOR TECHNICIAN
Thanks Paul, looks like it is an LM

Joined: Jan 2015
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Qualified Senior
Hi Norm,
The pull chord is not to bad, there is a good YouTube clip showing how to do them. You will need to get a new o ring for the crankcase seal.

Your revs problem on the other mower is more than likely be hardened o rings on the inlet manifold and the starter housing. There cheap and easy to replace.

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SENIOR TECHNICIAN
Thanks Paul, I'll have a look tomorrow if the weather improves

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Are these worth restoring or are they just the beginning of the throw away mower market. The 2 stroke Victa is a really strong motor, can be a bit cantankerous with their starting, but at the end of the day does anybody really care about them

Joined: Jun 2011
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Master Technician
***
No there not worth restoring as even fixed up in fantastic condition you'd only get @ $200.The plus side is it has the Aussie made power-torque engine on it,and yes it will be an LM carby to late to have a G4.With your revs after checking all the other great advice above if you still have the same problem then I'd check the decompression valve.I've had them fail and cause that problem,but it most likely more what was said above.
Quote
but at the end of the day does anybody really care about them
No not really they were made in their thousands and in all different colours.In fact I have about 6 here at the moment and I'm going to sell.Once I've put blades and air filters in,but I only have one with the Aussie made engine.They are a bit older than the Chinese made engines.It's most likely made from 1995 to 1998.Where the carby in take is if you look on the block you will see a date stamp,it should be in a round circle.At least then you can put a date on it.


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Geeze Blumby $200, I figured in good running condition they would have to be worth at least $30 and I would be over the moon if I got that. laugh and I would probably throw in a can of starter fluid just so they will start first pull

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ha ha ha $30 you need to set your price higher than that,you'll get more than that for it.If you get it working.


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Remember we are in Melb, "Australias most livable city" wonder how much they paid to get that title, ain't that "livable" for the majority here

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Qualified Senior
I have the same model as the one above but in green, the Aussie engine you should be able to get to idle low and rev up nicely not like the newer ones. I have kept one as an example of the Powertorque engine plus an entirely made Australian mower, I like the small cowl on this model as it shows off the engine a bit.

[video]
[/video]

Joined: Jan 2016
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Paul, got a bit grumpy with the second one today, thought I could rethread the cord without pulling the top off the crank, but with turning the motor over, thought this thing has no compression, so not worth wasting any more time on it, ripped the motor off, checked if it had spark, ok good,coil so I pulled that off, then was looking at it and bingo it hit me, the decomp!!! sucked on it and good compression, so now I will have to put it all back together again, doh Sometimes when you head down some path, you forget some of the basic things. I guess the best way to not make silly mistakes is not do anything

Last edited by NormK; 27/08/16 05:00 AM.
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Oh dear I did mention the decompression value to.


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It gets worse, as I was stripping it down I threw the bits I didn't want in the scrap bin, now I will have to go and see if I can fish them out laugh

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Apprentice level 4
LMAO Norm... In the mower game, I've found that ya throw nothing out (unless totally stuffed) because you never know what you're going to come across down the track..


Regards,
Paul

Such is life.......
Nothing better than a "GreenField" just mowed..
Joined: Jun 2011
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SuperDooper your spot on there.I had some Briggs carby's and tanks I was going to through.A friend of mine was working on some for me and actually used them for those mowers.Even-though at the time I though I'd chuck them glad I didn't.So if it isn't completely buggered,store it.


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The usual reason for these being sent to scrap, is that the base rusts out around the left side handle mount. Due to owners not hosing the underside out after use...

Apart from that issue, they're usually pretty fixable.

There's a starter how-to free download in Section 2 HERE.


Cheers,
Gadge

"ODK Mods can explain it to you, but they can't understand it for you..."

"Crazy can be medicated, ignorance can be educated - but there is no cure for stupid..."
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Yes Paul and it is always the little bits that end up right at the bottom of the scrap bin, somehow they magically work their way all the way down

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Is there anything specific to look for when cleaning these LM carbs?

Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 55
Trainee
The hole in the jet can be blocked with gunk. The seal on the Prima cap can be rooted. And the diaphragm can be mangled.
holes/cracks in the float. The needle can be excessively worn. And cracks and fractures in the body of the whole carby in general.
Also, there is lettering (A, B, C) on the head of the puppet valve. Which the work shop manual talks about.
Sometimes depending on which letter you have lined up with the groove in the seat where the valve sits it can affect the revving of the engine.

That's what I've found anyway.

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