OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Engines Questions On Rover Engines ROVER Wayfarer: Hard to Start

This has a typical Briggs motor on it. Carby is pulsa jet requiring 3 pushes of the priming button. Mine requires more like 7 or 8 and even then it kicks over, prime some more another kick over then another prime and it will start and run happily although a little underpowered I think. Have cleaned the carby throughly, checked the diaphragm and it still seems supple enough. Air filter not too bad. Did a compression test and it got to only 50 psi. Diaphragm and gasket changed only 3 years ago, spark plug fine. Is this machine on the way out or do I just get another diaphragm?

or do i just get another diaphragm , you already answered yourself there tiger.
once removed never use them again , it does the priming too so it explains why its not working .
if its not smokey check valve clearances might need to be adjusted , do the carby gaskets 1st diaphragm to tank , gasket to carb then see how ya go but NEVER reuse unless to get reeeeeeeally lucky it just doesnt work mate .and no one likes doing the same job a second time ;)or maybe im just slack hehehe

Thanks Dave, it just looks so pristine ie flexible not hard or perished in any way. Will get the gaskets and give them a try.

and oh yeah , make sure the pickup is free n clear , long one with mesh it pulls out with a twist its just sort of clips in and a gentle tap to refit as always make sure its squeaky clean

Perfectly clear, thorough wash with Carby cleaner and then compressed air. I thought originally that this might be the problem.

Replaced with new gasket and diaphragm, no improvement Strongly suspect that it's a low compression problem.

see first reply , also if the tank was loose at anytime then check inlet manifold too , sometimes they come loose or crack if its a plastic one ?
but as i said before it could be valve clearances too even if it does start ? slowly chuggs into life just sounds weak ? if yes then that is a good possibilty

Save, squirted some oil into the spark plug and took another reading, this time it read 60 psi .makes me think it's rings, what do you think?

If it is a L-head design check your valve clearances. They tend to close up on these and the valve just don't close quick enough for good compression.

How difficult is it to get to the valves on these?

The engine numbers should be posted but the following is for L-heads; OHV has a different procedure.

On L-heads the valve clearance is checked by removing breather that the cover valve springs (usually on the muffler side of the engine). As far adjusting them it requires removing the cylinder head so the valves can be removed. You will a valve spring compressor so the retaining clips can be removed. To adjust the valve clearance the tip of the valve stem is grounded or file lightly while keeping it squared. After each light filing re-install the valve and check clearance. Be careful not to over file them as you can't lengthen them except by grinding valves or using a new replacement valve.

This is a good time to go ahead and touch up the valve face and seat with valve grinding compound. This will usually close up the clearances again which why I do it at the same time and it just makes good sense to do it while you have the head off and valves loose.

Note: If the valve face are heavily worn then I would replace it anyway and lap with grinding compound for good seat contact.

Thanks AVB, attached is an image of what my machine looks like, think it is an L-head. What I'd like to know is how much work I'm up for. Removing the head will mean a new head gasket? Just want to know what supplies I'll need before I start, whether I complete the job is another matter. Have taken 2 strokes apart but never a 4 stroke so not sure how much valves etc complicate things.

some of the later head gaskets tend to stick so be careful , you can reuse them but its your call as we cant really see what its like , the valve chest gaskets almost always break and a few different types of those again use care , thin blade and gently remove it then check clearances (i cant remember them now but look around here , a lot posts with them ) it is under your muffler , rectangular looking plate , a 7mm ? bolt top and bottom .

a tad more complicated but good to learn tiger , next one will get easier

Thanks Dave, had a look for similar engine valve repairs, didn't find much, will keep looking.

yeah , search thing seems a little hard to use i know , i can never find anything

inlet .005/.007" exhaust .009/.011" , what the bible tells me here , i hadto look it up

Thanks Dave, apart from possibly gaskets is there anything else I need to make this repair?

patients . take your time , use a couple of screwdrivers to remove valve stem retainers zipties to put back in tie valve springs , insert and cut when your sure alldone . check 1st though clearances . go to it , not as scary as you think its gunna be .

and dont force the feeler in there , doesnt take much to compress the springs . not a race engine

You make it almost sound easy, going to look for some youtube videos to see exactly what I'm looking for but appreciate your tips Dave. Patience, well don't have much but I'll try.

soooooooooo

Got sidetracked by the Victa, will hopefully look at the Rover this weekend.