OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Restoring, Customising and Modifying Reel-Type Mowers Scott Bonnar Model 45 - Restoration - Hooksey

All of the sprockets are rather badly worn. I don't see a picture of the one on the engine/clutch shaft. The pair of sprockets on the reel axle are a total loss. The drum drive sprocket is the least worn, but it is worn out.

Thanks for your input grumpy. I will order some new ones in the store.!

Cheers

As Jim Carey said in that famous Movie he did,

I've had better !

Again I concur with Grumpy and that was exactly what I was thinking when I asked for larger shots to confirm my suspicions.

Sadly sprockets are big money if you have to buy them new and to find them second hand is so hard as you have to basically buy another machine which would probably go again with not that much work, it's a catch 22 I guess.

Cheers,
BB

I remember that movie.....

[video][/video]

Hi Hooksey,

You crack me up, a guy with a sense of humour !

I guess "That's because you've got big Jugs, Mama !!!!!!"

Cheers,
BB

yeah - its a great movie..!

now back to my resto project - can someone pls confirm the if the sprockets for sale in the onlince shops (as listed on the SB45 parts page) would suit my 14inch? the shop states that the sprokets for sale are for the 17 inch but i have counted the teeth on the my 14 inch sprockets and it appears the number of teeth on match the number of teeth on the 17 inch sprockets.

Much appreciate your guidance and assistance!

Cheers

Hi Hooksey,


Back on task !

Yes they are the same for both 14 and 17 inch machines, only the Electric 14 is different, but that doesn't apply to you, so buy away.

Cheers,
BB

so - we've been busy and I've not had a lot of time in the shed over the past week or so. However, there has been a little progress.

I managed to pull more or less everything apart - see photos below.







A couple of questions:
1 - I'm still struggling to get the clutch body of the engine shaft. I followed the instructions in the video and Ihave gently tapped (and prob a little more than gently) the screw that holds the clutch to the engine. Any hints / tips?

2 - i managed to pull everything apart and Im now left with one sprocket which i can't seem to get off. Any ideas?

3 - which parts do you normally send off for sand blasting. I guess you'd send the grass box, the frame, the chain case etc (other frame type parts). However, i wanted to hear if you'd normally completely strip the frame or if you'd normally leave e.g. the cutter bearing houses? How much should i expect a sandblast to cost? Any recommended sandblaster here in Perth? Any recommended place to get her primed and painted?

4 - id like it if someone could please comment on my bottom blade and sole plate. They appear VERY rusty but I'm not sure if there is any life left on them.

5 - also - it look like there may have been a crack in the frame and that this may have been fixed / reinforced. There are NO visible cracks on the top of the frame but as you can see there is the reinforcement on the bottom. Is that a worry?

6 - whats the trick to getting the hand nut off?

(I'll prob think of a few more questions over night).

Thanks very much for your guidance and help

Hi Hooksey, you have made some progress whilst I have been away! Good work mate.

Before we go any further, for archival purposes I would like to re-name this thread and also (as it is a ground up restoration) shift the posts to the correct topic " Restoring, Customising and Modifying"...Reel Type Mowers.
This will help new members find this thread easily when attempting a resto of their own.

Hi Hooksey, Now we have your thread in the right place, I'll try and answer some of your questions....

(1) Firstly, it is good to know how the "captive cotter pin" system actually works, in order to release it and remove the inner clutch half. Here is an illustration:

As you can see, you just undo the nut and gently tap the pin down until it releases from the shaft....Just get some Penetrene down the pin area... and down the shaft from the centre of thrust bearing...replace the nut and re-tighten to pull it back up until it re-engages the shaft again...and the then tap it back down gently...then.... with a 3 leg puller gently try to remove the clutch half.

(2) Firstly remove the self aligning bearing housing from the machine...remove the nut from the engine shaft....try and get some Penetrene down the keyway...leave it for a while to soak in....then use the 3 leg puller to remove the 12 tooth motor sprocket and then remove the engine shaft.

(3) Your quite correct there Hooksey, you send the grass box, mower chassis ( completely stripped of all parts), the chain case, and handle bar centre cover to the sandblasters.
I cannot answer your other questions as I live in NSW, you need to look in your 'Yellow Pages' and let your fingers do the walking.

(4) Please do NOT attempt to remove the bedknife (bottom blade) from the soleplate...Just get the whole thing(as it is) sandblasted with your other components and take it complete, with the cylinder reel, to the engineer who will do the sharpening for you...He will remove the bedknife for you (he has the expertise) and can supply a new bedknife and screws for you, if deemed necessary.

(5) This is a hard one to answer, without seeing the repair in person...If it has been done professionally, It will be fine...However, if (as Grumpy says) it is a 'previous tenants improvement'....it may need attention.

(6) The trick is...plenty of Penetrene down the centre hole....let it soak in well....and screw it off anti-clockwise.
Please let us know how you get on....Best of luck with it..

Thanks Deejay - will have to get back in the shed and play around with it.

given the time a year thought id include a couple of scenes from an all time great Xmas movie...

[video][/video]

(too much?)

We all like people with a sense of humour here Hooksey,