OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Restoring, Customising and Modifying Other Walk-Behind Rotary Mowers Rover super four 53 self propelled

Hi Chris and members, here's some info on the 13 series vertical Briggs engines that may be of interest. The images are larger than the in-post preview if you wish to read the specs.

Cheers, Michael

Chris, do you know if forum chaps have identified a good match for the orange/red Briggs engine? (I am colour blind you know) .
I am wanting a decent match for my "Super four 21".
thanks .

Chevy orange is about the best match in engine paint.

Hi Christo,

Chevy orange is available in pressure pack spray cans, and you can get it from most auto parts stores (SupaCheap Auto etc.)

G'day Christo your Rover is looking good mate...Ive not done an orange briggs yet so id go with what Joe and Deejay say is a good match,dont forget to load some pics of your rover when done..Have been abit busy of late but have had mine going and seems it's revving too hard as when I engage the self propelled it spins the wheels and takes off! and I have to RUN after it! HaHa...Am looking at Buying a tach so I can Check Revs and make life a little easier working on small engines......Cheers Chris

Great minds think alike they say. (joke) I would like one of those tacho gadgets too. On the subject of "too fast" mine has the opposite problem. It is a tad slow, but if it is too fast then I would guess it could be a danger eh? The darn things could run over some valuable garden assets if they get engaged and take off. Good thing the technology has put the self propulsion under constant control of the operator now a days.

Good complete example (Not mine)
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Rare-Rov...rs&hash=item35d3f9af32#ht_208wt_1120

I want to thank Newlife for the pictures. Especially the following picture of the manual from ebay listing he had referred to.

Yes very nice ,if it was closer i'd buy it.

Chris125, I am not doing a restore like yours because I am only a learner. But my super 21
has been looking better since I followed your leading. Still a way to go yet though. Great fun this.

Christo you've done an awesome on your 21,something to be proud of for sure and you've done a great job on the briggs! ...Ive added your pics to my Rover self propelled archive keep up the good work. Cheers Chris...And yeah if you dont have a Rover badge for your base PM me and I will send you one that's if it's the same badge as on my 53, I think the 21 and 53 have the same badge?...

Thanks. I am a but troubled by the carby & enamel having a "run-in".
Chris125, Hold your accolades because mine in no way comes even close to to what you have shown us. Anyway I bought a new "carby to tank" gasket thinking it would help any leakage. But instead of helping it leaked all over the place. The Blue paint not affected but the paint from the spray can of the Chevy orange did not like it at all. So can I ask a few questions?
1)Do you have any advice on preventing leakage at the carby to tank?
2)Also is there any tips out there on preventing enamel from being vulnerable to petrol?
3)Should I use two gaskets on the carby?


I have a Rover edger to fix for someone so I might ask em if I can pinch the badge. Looks same size 133mm.

Bugger mate not good what paint did you use the brand?....My carby to tank was the same but the fuel did not worry the paint,all I did to fix the leak was to make a thicker gasket you could try two gaskets but with the thicker gasket mines fine now..The tank to carby is not what you would call very flat...Good luck and mower is looking great are you doing the catcher as well.....Cheers Chris

Chris, Here is the pic of the spray can. I think this is a worthwhile point to be discussed on the forum don't you? I mean in any restore it is useless to have a paint with this disability. Others can benefit from this? regards Chris.

These types of engine enamels are usually quite good with their fuel resistance, provided they have cured correctly. They will be very sensitive to fuel otherwise. I'm not sure on the correct procedure for curing this particular brand but some will require you to heat the paint to a certain temperature several times, others may have a period of 7 days or more that you need to let it sit before it is exposed to any fuels etc. Bear in mind that the waiting period can extend significantly if you've applied several coats or heavy coats.

As most of us don't have access to a suitable oven for curing, I would suggest leaving it for a week or so after painting and then sticking it out in the sun a few times on some warm days. You can also utilise the heat generated through engine operation but be careful that you don't let the engine get too hot on the first couple of times that you run it after painting. For example run the engine for say 60 seconds and let it cool for the first few times, then run the engine for a little longer each time until cured.

I have used all of the popular brands of aerosol engine enamels over the years for various jobs and have not experienced any issues once the paint has sufficiently cured.

Thanks rolla, I am listening. It is a learning curve.

Also to Chris125. I have attached a pic of what Rover called their drive. If you want the pdf of the rest let me know. They called it a "posi-traction drive mechanism".

do ya Like that?

regards
Christo.

Never used that particular paint before myself...I have had good results using Motospray paint out of the spray can with no paint reactions to fuel, rust gurad paint is good stuff also...Interesting so they call this setup a "posi-traction drive mechanism" whatever that means .

Hi Chris. I am a newbie to this site and am looking for some assistance I recently acquired a Rover exactly the same as yours (nice restoration by the way). I used to use one about 20 years ago in a lawn run I had and always thought it did a great cut so I am keen to get it up and running and relive the glory days!
The biggest problem I am having is finding the drive dogs. The ones in your pics appear to be new. Can you tell me where you got them?

Robomow, I also am a newbie. Not an experienced re-builder like some here. But I am a watchin! Sorry that I cannot help you with the source of the cogs because I have not replaced mine. They are original. My Rover came in undamaged condition from a great chap in our Adelaide Hills. (The only problem with these engines though is the strength needed to pull starter cord javascript:void(0)).
I trust that someone else will reply to your question as from what I have seen ODK is pretty good at advising such stuff. regards Chris.

In case I have posted a reply to Robomow that was intended for Chris125 I apologize.