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Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 289
Likes: 2
Apprentice level 3
Thanks Darryl, I think I'll put it on the back burner for now and slowly get some bits for it.

My SB project is coming along nicely, but I'd appreciate some advice on preparing the engine for paint. When i purchased the mower I gave it a thorough service including carb clean and diaphragm and also a magnetron coil. It runs and idles nicely and I see no reason to pull the engine down.

I'm wondering if there are any methods to prep the engine for paint whilst fully assembled (and still achieve a quality result)? Or am I just going to be cutting corners and realistically need to pull the engine down? I've painted plenty of automotive components but I usually chuck them in the blast cabinet and then lay the paint on - not a suitable option in this scenario.

Cheers, Michael

Portal Box 6
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,362
Likes: 10
Administrator - Master Technician
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Hi again Micheal, have a look at this post by Dunks03, he seemed to paint his Briggs whilst still complete....The Chevy orange looks a good match as well....here's the pics....Click HERE
Why not send him a PM and get some advice on his preparation method. wink
cheers2



Please do not PM me asking for support. Please post your questions in the appropriate forums, as the replies it may receive may help all members, not just the individual member.
Kindest Regards, Darryl grin


Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 2
Novice
Hi, I'm new to the blog so sorry if Im posting incorrectly but you look like the expert im looking for. I recently picked up a Scott Bonnar 45 and whilst its not being retored to the level of some that Ive seen on this blog It's in good working order and pretty good condition. My problem is that it only runs at one speed. I can see that the throtle/governor springs are missing and I cant work out how or where they need to be fitted. Are you able to assist me with pics of the correct fittment please?
Thanks

Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 289
Likes: 2
Apprentice level 3
Cheers Darryl, that's exactly what I'm looking for. I'll send a PM grin

The Green Bonnar - :welcome: to the forum. You're probably best to post your question along with some pictures in the 'questions on engines section' as there's been many different engines fitted to Scott Bonnar 45s over the 40 or so years they were produced. The experts here will be able to guide you from there smile

Cheers, Michael

Last edited by rolla16v; 22/09/13 08:57 PM.
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 2
Novice
Thanks for the welcome and the advice Michael.
I'll try that and see how I get on.
Its the last thing I need to get my machine on the grass (once I understand it it sohould only take me 30 seconds) so keen to get it done ASAP.
Thanks again MJ

Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,362
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Administrator - Master Technician
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Hi The Green Bonnar, and a warm welcome to the forum. grin It's always nice to welcome another Scott Bonnar Model 45 owner on board. wink
Thanks also Michael for your good advice...that's exactly what we want...some pics please. If your engine is a Briggs and Stratton, can you please post the complete string of numbers that are stamped into the air-cowling of your engine. This will not only tell us the model, but we can tell you the date of manufacture of your engine.

GB, you can find the instructions for uploading pics using our forum inline-uploader....Click HERE
Just remember that the file extension has to be .jpg or .png and the files preferably under 2 Mb....There are free downloads for resizing pics. wink
Can you please start a new thread in the "Repairs and Maintenance >> Questions on Engines >> and whatever brand your engine is topic" The will keep this thread 'on topic' many thanks. wink

Once again The Green Bonnar, :welcome: to OutdoorKing!
cheers2

Last edited by Deejay; 23/09/13 04:57 PM. Reason: Added Detail

Please do not PM me asking for support. Please post your questions in the appropriate forums, as the replies it may receive may help all members, not just the individual member.
Kindest Regards, Darryl grin


J
Joe Carroll
Unregistered
You shouldnt have too much trouble with painting the engine assembled, they were painted spark plug and all at the factory 100% complete, ovbiously you wouldnt want to get any paint on the govenor linkages or anything that needs to move and doing the air filter seperately is probably a good idea too.

Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 289
Likes: 2
Apprentice level 3
Thanks very much for your reply Joe smile

My main concern was getting everything clean and prepped in some of the hard to reach spots like between the fins and in grooves etc. I was also worried about the original paint flaking a little in parts that I couldn't sand.

I've cleaned everywhere as best as I can with a die grinder and a little abrasive pad and so far so good - it's in primer now. I think for my next one I'll strip the engine so that I can clean and prep everything thoroughly.

Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,362
Likes: 10
Administrator - Master Technician
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Hi Michael, sorry about your thread going off topic, and thanks for your help with the Green Bonnars prob....I have also asked him to start a new thread.
Joe is quite correct in his advice, I just remembered, before I scrapped the old Briggs on my Model 45, I had removed the air cowling for cleaning and you could clearly see that it had been painted with the engine completely assembled....so it appears that was the original procedure at the manufacturing plant. wink
cheers2


Please do not PM me asking for support. Please post your questions in the appropriate forums, as the replies it may receive may help all members, not just the individual member.
Kindest Regards, Darryl grin


Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 289
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Apprentice level 3
For sure Darryl, there's plenty of overspray evidence to support that. If i had a clean bare metal engine to work with like the factory it'd be fine but I have 30 years of dirt build up and flaky paint instead. I think to do a proper job that all of this should be removed prior to painting but with a fully assembled engine this isn't possible. Don't get me wrong, my primed engine is satisfactory but for my next resto I'd like to step things up a little wink

I'll post some progress pics soon for those interested... cheers2

Joined: Jul 2005
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I look forward to seeing them Michael, they will be good for the archives. grin
cheers2


Please do not PM me asking for support. Please post your questions in the appropriate forums, as the replies it may receive may help all members, not just the individual member.
Kindest Regards, Darryl grin


Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 289
Likes: 2
Apprentice level 3
Well I've had a change of mind and decided not to match the original colour. There's something about hammertone that I can't warm to so I've decided to go for something custom. I found it hard to get a photo that shows the true colour without the clear giving too much reflection, it's a lot darker in the flesh - closer to a brunswick green

[Linked Image from i95.photobucket.com]

[Linked Image from i95.photobucket.com]

And some reels...

[Linked Image from i95.photobucket.com]

More photos soon wink

Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,362
Likes: 10
Administrator - Master Technician
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Hey Rolla, That colour looks great and the reels fantastic!
congrats mate on a great job so far. wink
Please keep the pics coming. grin
cheers2


Please do not PM me asking for support. Please post your questions in the appropriate forums, as the replies it may receive may help all members, not just the individual member.
Kindest Regards, Darryl grin


Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 289
Likes: 2
Apprentice level 3
Thanks Darryl! smile

A couple more pics

In primer -
[Linked Image from i95.photobucket.com]

And basecoat -
[Linked Image from i95.photobucket.com]

It's too humid here today to continue so the clear will have to wait frown

Cheers, Michael

Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,362
Likes: 10
Administrator - Master Technician
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Wow! Michael, that looks great...this mower will look better than a bought one when it is finished. good1
cheers2


Please do not PM me asking for support. Please post your questions in the appropriate forums, as the replies it may receive may help all members, not just the individual member.
Kindest Regards, Darryl grin


Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 289
Likes: 2
Apprentice level 3
Thanks Darryl, I appreciate your encouragement! laugh

Got the chance to clear this morning, quite satisfied with the result. Just needs a light polish and wax once it's reassembled. It's not really a restoration now but I do prefer the more modern finish.

[Linked Image from i95.photobucket.com]

[Linked Image from i95.photobucket.com]


Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,362
Likes: 10
Administrator - Master Technician
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Wow! Rolla, that colour is great....I particularly like a solid colour....Well done; and keep the pics coming, this resto is going to be brilliant!! grin
cheers2


Please do not PM me asking for support. Please post your questions in the appropriate forums, as the replies it may receive may help all members, not just the individual member.
Kindest Regards, Darryl grin


Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 289
Likes: 2
Apprentice level 3
Cheers mate,

It's not quite solid, there's a very subtle amount of fine metallic but obviously hard to see in the pics. I think the balance is just right.

I have to get the reel off for sharpening and there's a 2 week wait for the local chrome plater so I'll probably start stripping the next machine while I'm waiting. I'll have to pick another colour too grin

Thanks, Michael

Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,362
Likes: 10
Administrator - Master Technician
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Hi Michael, please keep a record of your paint formula, I expect we will get future SB restorers asking for it....It looks great! grin
I gather you will taking your soleplate complete with the bedknife attached to the engineer who does your spin-grinds?
cheers2


Please do not PM me asking for support. Please post your questions in the appropriate forums, as the replies it may receive may help all members, not just the individual member.
Kindest Regards, Darryl grin


Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 289
Likes: 2
Apprentice level 3
Hi Darryl,

Yes definitely taking soleplates with bedknives attached for sharpening, I have 5 altogether. I've always let them decide if the bedknife needs replacing or not and I remember reading some of your advice that changing bedknifes is a job for professionals only.

As for the paint, it's called Sherwood Green Metallic. I believe it's a late 70's Ford colour. The Ford code is 'Z' and it's also available off the shelf in the Power Plus range of Aerosols (usually found in Autobarn and Supercheap). The Power Plus code is PK7110 for the large can or PJ7110 for the small. I'm sorry but I don't have the formula for the tinters. I doubt I'll end up keeping the first few restos that I do, so I wanted the future owner to be able to touch up their machines if they get scratched.

Hope this helps!

cheers2

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