OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Walk Behind Lawn Mower Frames Four Stroke Lawn Mower Frames Repairing Lawnmower Bases

Hello, does anyone one have some advice on how to repair this Honda deck.

Surely you are kidding, Mark? Most of the scrapped decks I've ever seen were in way better condition than that.

If you are an experienced argon-arc (sometimes known as MIG) enthusiast with the right gear, the deck theoretically could be repaired, though it still wouldn't be much good because of the dissimilar grain structures involved. It would also need some minor machining around the left front wheel after welding.

There is a mower parts shop that from time to time sells non-genuine copies of Honda bases the same as that one, for $99 if I recall correctly. Other than that, I suppose you could make it into a sort of paddock-mower by wrapping a piece of aluminium sheet around the missing part and pop-riveting it to the remaining perimeter of the base. I doubt it would stay there very long, and would look so bad that you'd be glad when it fell off.

I have seen these successfully mig welded on several of the clunker Hondas I had, But you have to think, that if its given out in one spot where will it break next...

If looks arent a problem I also have several alloy mowers that have been fixed with sheet ally and rivets, hey if it gets another 2-3 years out of a few dollars worth of sheet metal its well worth it. One of my Monaros was repaired with this method and it looked like it stood up well, I did source a new base for when I get to that restoration.

Thanks Grumpy, Joe & (Dave for the offer of some parts).

I am going to put some sheet aluminium over it to make it safe, until I source another base.
I can then mount the engine back on - to work on it.
I will also have a base to run & load test the engine.

I have seen so many of these for sale chipped, cracked & broken.

It is a problem for all mowers, but steel and aluminium bases have different failure modes. Aluminium bases like yours most times either crack from fatigue, or are fractured by impacts. You can find out something about Honda bases from this thread:
https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/u...n=7007&Words=honda&Search=true#Post36830

Thanks Grumpy, I read through your thread.
Maybe alot of the Honda chassis are broken because of the power the engines have and the fact that alot of contractors use them.

Here is a pic of a rover alloy base I have that someone else has welded.



This is what I have done to my base for now.

I agree that single-lever Honda bases are probably about as good, or bad, as quite a few others, and the main reason we see so many of them damaged is that they have been used by contractors. Also, if affordable argon-arc welding were available, a lot of contractors would keep their Hondas longer - the engines are usually not too bad when they scrap them, though more often than not they are blowing oil smoke.

You will be able to see how well your base repairs hold up, and meanwhile give the mower a try and see how you like it. So far, my HRU195 (with the heavy-repair to the base) is my all-time favourite mower.

I spent the day cleaning and painting parts, should start reassembly tomorrow.
Then I will be able to try it out.

Mark, on single height lever Hondas that are ex-contractor those grass doors usually crack in the corners. It isn't very difficult to weld them up.

Yes Grumpy, I noticed both sides are cracked, I can put some heat on those today.

I have plated up alloy bases like that before. Minus the bog.

Ive even done that to a couple that were not actually broke but had impact fractures.


That rover must have been owned by a alloy welding equipped person. Definately not worth it.



Looking at your honda base I was more worred about the bit missing out of the front just forward of the axle slot.

Thought I would put a pic of my reassembled Honda up.
Engine is a strong runner, seems like a sold little unit.
However, GXV140 engine is surging and missing. Carby was dirty, with black growth in the fuel bowl.
I have soaked & cleaned the carby again running wire through every gallery I can find.
Will try it out again when I get time.

Mark, there are a couple of tricky bits in cleaning Honda carburetors. You might take a look at this thread:
https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/u...=7309&Words=gcv160&Search=true#Post38500

If you have further carburetor problems, please post again - I'm sure between all of the Outdoorking members, we'll be able to get to the bottom of them.

Aside from having the wrong wheels and handle locking nuts, plus the massive repairs to the base, your HRU195 now looks a lot like mine - well done, bringing it back from the dead at minimal cost.

Grumpy, I will give this carburetor much more attention.
I see now, that is some thread.
Didnt thing there was that much invovled.
I will let you know how it goes.

Thanks Mark, please note that your engine, a GXV140, has the black plastic removable idle jet like the one in the Dutch video, not the non-removable metal idle jet like the one in the GCV160 and the galoot video. The plastic idle jet is located right under the idle speed adjustment screw - in fact the idle speed screw holds the jet in. Be gentle with that plastic jet - a new one from Honda costs $18, and the unbranded ones may not be sufficiently petrol-resistant. The idle jet hole is only 0.30 mm diameter (actually a 0.35 mm jet drill will just go through a brand new one, dead size fit), so there aren't many things in your toolbox that will fit through it without damaging the soft plastic.

Just cleaning the main jet and emulsifier would probably fix everything except idle quality. Note that it may not be easy to clean them though. My HRU195 initially ran slightly lean, though not lean enough to hunt, let alone run badly. The problem was a thin coating of gum in the main jet. Working torch tip cleaners through it had only a marginal effect on the diameter. However a short blast of carburetor cleaner, and then running the series of welding torch tip cleaners through it, enlarged it from less than 0.45 mm to a perfect fit for the 0.55 mm jet drill. That increased its fuel throughput by more than a third, and eliminated the problem. I suggest you do not rely on putting probes through the jets and passages, use carburetor cleaner as well (and be sure you remove it afterwards - it is no friend to plastics).

Mark, on a great repair and resto mate....it always amazes me what can be achieved with time, a little money and patience.
Well done mate!

To Grumpy, you have value added to your original thread, great tips, I will follow them closely on Saturday.
I have standard oxy tip cleaners & will get some carb cleaner.
I plan to take my time & be methodical.

To Darryl, kind words, cheers.

I have cleaned the carburetor, things dont always go my way, I am afraid I was a galoot & snapped both the idle jet & the pilot screw.



I managed to tap a new screw in for the idle jet.

But the pilot screw is stuck in there, not sure what to do about that?

I used a thin film of non setting gasket where the carb meets the engine.

The good news is the engine is idling and running fine, what a great motor they are.

I agree it's a great motor, Mark. It runs like a small one, but produces 5 hp: when it digs into heavy stuff, it's impressive.

I did have a warning in the other thread about what would happen if you tried to adjust the pilot screw or remove the head that keeps you from adjusting it, and sure enough, it happened. To get it out now you'll have to drill it axially for about 5 mm then use a tiny ezy-out (the smallest one that comes in a standard set should be about right). Then you can get a new pilot screw from Honda. It's a very simple operation under a small drill press, because the pilot screw is brass. You can also get a new idle speed screw from Honda of course, if you didn't re-tap the thread. As an alternative, once you remove the pilot screw, you could cut a screw-slot in the broken-off end of it and voila, an adjustable idle jet.

If I can say something here, the black plastic "idle screw", is actually the throttle stop for wide open throttle. I always screw these fully in on re-assembly, and adjust them later with the engine under FULL load. Having them too far out can allow the engine to over rev, possibly causing engine failure.

And a tip for MIG welding alloy.

Reverse the polarity of the welder. This encourages impurities in the alloy to be brought to the surface, and for preparation, thoroughly wash the area to be welded with methylated spirits to remove oxidisation, and then do not touch it with bare hands.