OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Walk Behind Lawn Mower Frames Question On Scott Bonnar Cylinder Mowers SB45 - Kirby to Briggs or ??

Joe, I agree it should work very well as long as the teeth on the jaws are sharp, but I don't see what advantage it has over an ordinary Stillson. The demonstration test on the prototype Stillson that convinced a tool manufacturer to licence and produce it, was proving that if you clamp a piece of waterpipe in a pipe vice and apply a Stillson to the other end of the pipe, you can easily twist the steel pipe until it breaks.

Stillsons are rather clumsy in my opinion, so I seldom use one until one of my trusty gas pliers has failed to do the job. Either a Stillson or a gas plier will easily bite into mild steel to the depth of the teeth on its jaws, then tear off that amount of metal right around the object it's gripping. Of course that is rather uncomfortable on your hand in the case of a gas plier.

Hi Joe, would that be a grey bonnet I spy??

OK, so finally got the engine off.. !

rebuild is underway !

Had the frame welded, and looks strong as ever



Am in the process of stripping/ cleaning all the parts. After seeing some video's online of people using electrolysis thought I'd give it a go. Works a treat, after about 4 hours.



Had a question, how have people restored their body plates. Mine is the older style which has two overlapping each other

Hi Barry Jnr
Yes I would be very interested on how to restore the Serial Number plate as well.
Is there a special place or way to have them done properly?

If anybody knows would be great

Hi guys, Scott Bonnar ID plates were etched from brass originally and had a bright red painted background. When the plate is in very good condition, this could be restored by masking the larger section where the numbers are stamped, spraying the whole plate in bright red enamel, and when completely dry, after removing the masking tape; rubbing the plate on wet and dry paper, on a flat smooth surface.....to reveal the lettering in brass.

When the plate has been damaged ie. dented, bent or abraded, a polish to a high shine with 'Brasso' will do the trick and look great....showing the heritage of the machine.

The later Scotties/Rovers had an anodized aluminium ID plate and restoration is nigh on impossible if damaged.
The 2 plates that Barry has riveted together were brought about by the inclusion of the new Model number sequence. This info of course carried over to the anodised future plate.

Thanks Deejay, sounds logical in theory however my lettering doesn't seem to be raised that much, feels very flat in fact..

Ok, reel now sandblasted, as is frame




Some work on the chain guard


First attempt using a spray gun...very light first coat

Slow progress, but here is the reel




It's off to the local shop for a grind....

Looks pretty good so far, I have to have my reel straightened before i paint it, yours looks pretty straight

Hi Barry, on the job thus far mate....This machine will look a treat when finished!

Had a visitor while building... Bread didn't work, so had to resort to a broom

That EH Premier is looking pretty good. My father had one just like it, even the same colour. No rust on the sail panel by the look of it.

Thanks Grumpy. Yep the EH prem is my baby, well second baby behind the 45 at the moment.....body is pretty good with only a few small rust spots.


On the re-assembly at the moment. Getting excited



In regards to my earlier post, based on some advice, I sanded back the ID plate and left unpainted. I'll try and take some close up pics

Hope to get the motor installed, and align the reel and sole plate on the weekend. The new turf is almost ready for a mow!!!

Hi Barry, all looks to be coming along nicely....good work, mate.
Just a tip, make sure you completely reassemble the machine; less the chain case cover of course, before you attempt to adjust the reel clearances. Here is my method...Click HERE
Good luck with it and please let us know how you get on.

Thanks Deejay

Yep assembled the entire unit and will play with adjustment as the last step

The new Briggs bolted straight on. Can't wait for the first fire up

Barry, please don't forget to check the crankcase oil level in that new engine. Briggs engines are normally shipped with dry crankcases, in case they are tipped in transit. An amazing number of them are fired up for the first time without putting oil in them. I understand you can't claim warranty if this happens, because the owner manual emphasises the necessity of doing it.

Also Barry, install the grass deflector and the catcher support rubber blocks, you will scratch the catcher if you forget.
Looking fabulous mate!

Thanks guys

Grumpy, have purposely left the new sticker on the engine as my reminder to not start without oil, new engine has a dipstick vs the old Tecumseh. And yes comes Dry.

Deejay. Have brand new catcher rubbers ready to go and will take your advice from your video about grass deflector after reel adjustment

Also realized I'd left the rubber off the crank, so need to take engine off to refit

All Done....

Have since used a couple of times and works a treat. The new briggs is nice and quiet (smoked a bit on first fire up, which marked the newly painted handle stem where the decal sits), compared to the old Kirby.. Tweaked the reel alignenment after the first mow, which made a huge difference.

Still do do is
-add the throttle control from handlebar, but is not a huge priority..
-oil change in a few weeks






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