OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Finding and Swapping Tip & Curb Side Finds Victa Statesman Information Please

Greetings to all.

I have recently made the jump from �Whipper Snipper Fixer� to �Victa Fixer� so I�ve been busy researching these rotary mowers. I�ve recently picked up 2 x Power Torque models and 1 x full crank model (all front verge pick-ups).

One of the Power Torque models is a Victa �Statesman� (see pic).



I was hoping someone could give me some info on this one as I�m fixing it up to sell so would like to gather a better understanding of this model. I�m fairly ok with the mechanics of it and have got it running beautifully after some work & replacement of parts. What I would like to know is the following:

1) When was the Victa �Statesman� released and discontinued?
2) Is there a User Manual (not workshop manual) available?
3) Are the engine cowling & chassis decals available? I may respray it and the original decals are looking a bit daggy (see pics).
4) It�s currently running at 4200RPM at maximum throttle which I know is too high. Will adding 1 or 2 shims/washers inside the carburetor (under the cam) reduce the maximum revs?
5) It seems to start better on full throttle rather than the �Start� throttle setting � is this normal/ok?

Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks very much. Kind regards � Peter.

Hello again. I thought I'd add some numbers to the mix in case that helps.

Typed On Air Filter Housing Label:
Model No. STS201C
Serial No. 3385-426

Stamped On Crankcase:
EN728162

Stamped On Starter Housing:
ST12644A (Probably the Victa part number)

Thanks again. Kind regards - Peter.

A powertorque engine is a powertorque engine, they were sold under many names at any one time. If you look under the carb there will be a 2 digit number in a circle that is its year code. As for a user manual I am yet to have owned one.

Thanks for the quick response Joe.

As for your decals,I'm fairly sure that it would be like finding a piece of hail in a stack of needles.Notice how I didn't say a needle in a hay stack as that is possible if you have the time.It's a lot harder to find the first way I said it.I'm currently researching away to do some repo decals.I won't say to much at this point as I'm not sure if it will work.Will know more after I tried.As far as your revving,I had one here that did a similar thing I found the depression valve was rooted.I changed that and all was good.Not saying that is your problem but it was in my case.As Joe said user manuals are hard to get most people just throw them out.I have seen them on ebay but not very often.Besides that hole in the cowl it seems to be in fairly good condition.Fixed up you won't have much problem selling that one.

Thanks very much Blumbly.

Yes point taken re decals. I'm in the process of scanning & touching them up on the PC. It's a bit of a painstaking process but ATM it's keeping my interest.

Re the revving, I've got another mower that I can swap the decompressor with. As you said, that was in your case but it may also work in mine & I'm here to learn so it won't hurt to try. I'm still going to try adding washer/s to the carby cam to experiment with that. I've also got a couple of other carby springs to try. It's all trial & error I guess, but also good fun.

Point taken re user manuals. I don't need one myself, just thought it'd look more professional to supply one when selling the mower/s.

Yes the mower is in good condition - nice spotting of the cowling breakage btw. Thanks very much for your detailed response Blumbly. It is greatly appreciated.

I think with the washer in and around the diaphragm it has to be very small so it doesn't get in the road.I've also had to do that with one of my twins.It doesn't need to be very thick at all, in-fact I was surprised at how small it needed to be.I was lucky and had another carby to pinch it out of,and yes it did work on that mower.

Thanks Blumbly,

Yes the washers are very thin indeed. Luckily I had a couple from another carby to play with. After a bit of experimentation with various (top) diaphram springs and (under) cam washers, it was amazing to see such great variations in max RPM's. Initially, I had 4,200RPM (too high). After the first adjustment this dropped down to 3,400RPM (too low). After further tinkering it settled at 3,800RPM (just right ) which I'm happy to keep it at. It was a bit like Goldilocks & the three bears but it all ended well I guess. To be fair, I did take your previous advice and swapped the decompressor which marginally reduced the RPM's. Still I appreciated the suggestion and as I had a spare, it didn't hurt to rule it out as a problem part.

The mower is finished and looks/runs great. The only thing is that I swapped the piston over from another powertorque. Being inexperienced with these, I've only since realised that there are differences between the cylinder's transfer ports between the donar & recipient engines. The one pictured, has the later (more oblongish) ports whilst the donar is from an earlier engine with the more ovalish ports. According to my Gregory's manual, The newer port design had an upgraded piston where the piston ring stops where spaced closer together. This piston can be used in any 160cc model but the older type piston cannot. I did put new rings on this mower but now need to get hold of a later piston. The manual says they have "580" stamped on the crown. The original piston was stamped but it looks more like "S-80". Unfortunately this piston is too badly scored for sanding smooth so I'm keeping an eye out for another powertorque - hopefully with the later type piston.

As I said, it runs well but still haven't got the knack of "cold starting" it yet. I adjusted the throttle lever (matchstick gap) and only turn the fuel tap on just before starting. I push the primer bulb slowly x3 and when I kill the engine, I either run it out of fuel or at least tunr the tap off before putting the throttle in the stop position. If I try and start with the throttle in the "start" position, nothing much happens for about 6 or so pulls and even then it coughs and wheezes a bit. If I start it in the run or full throttle position, it usually starts on the second pull but this is usually accompanied by a puff of smoke from the exhaust for the first few seconds then exhaust is clear.

When the engine is warm/hot, I just start it in the run postion and it usually starts first pull. Maybe this is usual behaviour? I see alot of Victa 2 strokes for sale where the ad states "starts first pull". Perhaps this is true or perhaps just a bit of sellers spin. Anyway, it's a great mower. It ploughed through some foot-high grass. My old 4 stroke (Tecumseh) usually starts to die at that point and I have to do the old "wheelie" trick to let it get back to normal revs.

Anyway, enough babbling from me. Thanks for all your help & interest Blumbly & Joe. It's very much appreciated.

"bit of sellers spin" come and try any of mine.

They never start as well as they can in the start position, if you turn the fuel tap on and allow 10 or so seconds to fill the fuel bowl, then hit the primer 3 or 4 times, put it on run any victa 2 stroke worth its money will start.

While priming if you dont hear a very feint tick inside he carby it is not priming properly.

The carbies on these mowers are smoke and mirror technology.


So long as it will start time in time out within 3 or 4 pulls. I call it acceptable.
Fuel on, prime it, pull it, pull it, no go prime it again, pull it. But you need to be %100 sure its not flooding thats stopping it running.
Im sure if each and every one was my mower and i got to know it loveingly i would work out the correct starting procedure so that it would be first pull every time.

Very few will actually go first pull.
Its not possible to prime fuel up hill. To prove that point, try a series 80 mkII they are more likely to start on the first pull. I suppose im biased, they are my favourite motor.

Most primer start brigs motors need 2 pulls, first one to draw the fuel you primed the 100mm to the bit where the business happens. Same deal with a Power torque. Sometimes you might get a little cough at the end of the first pull like it wants to go.



That is a nice clean mower. Its got a plastic door, i would date it mid-late 90's. Id aim for somewhere between $150-200 and move on to the next one. Depending on your market of course. In my rack that would have new blades (if the blades were still ok id put that disc on a cheaper mower and fit another disc to this with new blades) and a price tag of $185.

Painting and decals etc is a waste of time that will not get you any extra money. Well not money that will cover your time. Decals may not be terribly difficult if youve got a good PC and mad putah skillz, but painting is 90% prep and time effort intensive. To complicate the matter the 80's on victas a powder coated and the solvent in spray pacs eats the powder coat and wrinkles it.



I do believe that you need to sell a good product, but if you put the time needed into a 10 year veteran of neglect to get it spot on exact to the manufacturers specifacations that it probably never met when it was new, you would hardly fix enough mowers to make it worth your while.


So far as the RPM went, i would have been looking for a vaccum leak, govenor hose or possibly the back cover on the carb.
As for not starting at start, i assume that the cable was not to blame, if its not adjusted right it can be stopping in the start position.
Id say better than 9 out of 10 of the victas ive had through here have starter in the start position within 2 or 3 pulls reliably. Correct needle in the primer face helps hugely as does cable adjustment.

Thanks very much for the very informative reply Rodeobob.

I worked out that with this particular mower, the best cold start procedure is fuel on - press primer once - throttle in run position - pull. It's been starting on the first pull using this method when cold. Warm starts have always been ok on this one - first pull.

I agree it is a nice clean mower...thanks. I've actually cleaned it up a bit since the above pics were taken....probably a bit overzealous on my part. Got everything nicely buffed (kero & rag) and trimmed the daggy bits of the decals. I also removed the muffler and buffed it up a bit on the bench grinder (wire wheel). It was looking a bit out of place there.

I agree with you regarding painting the decks & I'm glad to get advice from a "voice of experience" about it. I really dislike painting because I always go for perfection which adds massive time to the project. I'll take your advice and leave the original paint as is. If any mowers are in too poor a condition, I'll use them for parts only.

I was thinking about a $160.00 price tag for that mower (after I replace the piston). Yes it has new blades, piston rings, air filter, primer, starter rope etc and all the other "usual suspects" were either checked, cleaned or replaced. I just like to be thorough so I'm confident when selling it. I'd rather spend an extra couple of hours at this end so the next owner gets an extra couple of years at his end...well, that's the theory anyway.

By the way, you were spot on regarding the age of this mower. According to the production year stamp on the engine, it's a 1996 model.

I'm still new to the Victa scene & only picked up my first one (the one in the pic) a few weeks ago. Now I've got 5 powertorques plus a Morrison (with a Tecumseh TVS90). They were all freebies but now the "dead space" behind the shed is quickly becoming prime real estate. I'd better start selling some soon!

I'm still trying to get my head around all the variations in engines/carbs betweens different powertorque models. Thank God for the internet and forums like this one. Thanks again for your comments and advice. It is very much appreciated.

P.S - I tried a cold start procedure in the start position and that also worked - turn fuel on - pump primer once - throttle to start then pull once & off she goes.

I pull the exhaust off, have a look and work out if the motor needs to be opened up. If it looks ok its generally OK. When you do start it, if its smokey then it might need rings.
With the 4 strokes, i take the head off and have a look, check the valve clearances. Doesnt matter what you do, you cant fix a motor with a stuffed bore by pulling the carb apart and cleaning it out. Its better to just dive right in. If its super new i might take a punt.


Did that mower need rings???
I highly doubt it needs a piston.
Ive never seen a powertorque fail for any other reason but lack of oil. I have seen one or two that have worn the rings out.



That would be a frame i would fit a rebuilt motor too, then i would ask $250-275 for it with a 12 month warranty.
The price i said about would have been just if i had serviced/repaired to get it going again.


Its entirely up to you, but i think you might be doing way too much and asking too little. Can i buy it and resell it?? lol.

Case in point.
$125 mowers, the one on the left

Is the same as this one that i had $160 on.



I sold the $125 one first. It had surface rust all over it.
As long as it goes, And its got a warranty.
It actually took a while to sell the better one. I had a few people come and look at it but they would put thier hand a bit further into their pocket and buy a better one.

Have this one here now
Put $150 on it.


Not trying to tell you what or how to do anything.
Just sharing where it is from my stand point.

Wow, great collection there Rodeobob, and great advice too. I'm starting to feel like "Grasshopper" from the old "Kung-Fu" tv series.

But seriously, I'm learning fast and very much welcome advice from those with experience. After all, I'm here to learn.

As far as needing piston/rings, here is the piston that came out of it. The piston has been thoroughly cleaned. I should've taken pics of it straight from the barrel. The pics below are a bit blurry and don't give a great indication as to the severity of the damage. If I run my fingernail across the piston wall, I don't get very far before my nail gets stuck in a deep groove/gouge.

The exhaust side...


The intake side...


When I got the mower, there was no air filter. When I dismantled the carby it was completely full of dried grass. These discoveries led me to do a complete engine disassembly and clean, just in case.

I'd say a fair bit of dried grass found it's way through to the cylinder before the mower died. Surprisingly, as bad as the piston/rings are, the barrel & crankcase are ok. It just goes to show how much abuse some people put their mowers through. Maybe it's the long dry summers we have here in the West? I'm surprised it looks as good as it does.

Anyway, here's some more pics of it since I cleaned it up a bit more (forgot the catcher this time).





And yes I know the lawn's looking a bit raggedy. I like fixing them...I'm just not a big fan of using them.

Great advice re pricing also. Perth can be a strange marketplace indeed so I'll have to feel things out. I've been toying with the idea of providing a warranty but perhaps only 3 - 6 months, depending on the unit's condition. I'm a bit apprehensive though because I'm not sure how to do it from a legal point of view. I would like to do this but also don't want to get stung. I don't have much faith that people will provide adequate servicing & treatment to their mower. I know it's easy enough to tell if a mower is faulty due to worn parts or abuse, I just don't feel like getting into bunfights about it with people. I think for the sake of a few extra bucks, I'd rather live a bit more harmoniously. I'm happy to provide after sales service though, just not provide a warranty. I've seen too many people try it on in the past. They usually rant and rave until they get there way...I don't need that.

Anyway, I'll hold off selling it until I've located the correct piston...or else I'll just change over the whole engine assembly. I'll give Gumtree a go and will keep you posted if I get any bites ok? Thanks again.

I was wrong then, it does need a new piston.
Well maybe not, cant really tell from the pictures. A good rub with some 600 wet dry and WD40 would see that piston come up OK. Theres no damage around the ring grooves.

They are readily available new. If your going to sell it as rebuilt it might as well have a new piston in it.
The very first Victa i rebuilt (for myself, had grass that needed urgent attention) the piston was a lot worse than that, run without oil, cleaned it up best i could with wet dry, honed it, new rings and it was still going strong 8 years later and i sold the mower for $140.

Have you put in new rings on that piston and got it running like that???
Only reason i ask is time related. Pull it apart, put it together, pull it apart, put it together.
Did you hone it before putting the new rings in?? If you didnt theres probably no point now.
Id say theres probably no point even opening it up again. If its running well it must be well.

Ive had the same, no air cleaner and an engine full of grass. makes a mess.


So far as the warranty goes. I give 3 months.
Warranty covers mowing grass, not rocks, bricks, concrete or water meters and the like.
If you do forget the oil in the fuel i can tell when you bring it back blown up.
I tell them, oil in the container first before the fuel. Always. And you will never forget.
You can check to be sure youve put oil in anytime uptill the point you put fuel in.
Put the Fuel in first, oil last and its oh so easy to forget. And you cant really check and be %100 accurate.
If ever in doubt put the fuel in the car and mix a fresh brew.



They only come back for silly little things, cover popped off the back of the carb. Tennant broke the spark plug lead using mower as a bulldozer, wheel fell off. Things like that.
The most common of all is water in the fuel tank. That will never be your fault.
Actaully the most common of all is leaving the fuel tap on and flooding the motor.

Once again, great advice! Thanks. The sequence of events was as follows.

1. I removed the scored piston/rings/conrod from the mower above.
2. I replacet the piston/conrod with donor parts, plus new rings.

Unfortunately, I didn't hone it - don't have a hone as yet. The mower has been used for about 15 mins max since putting in the new piston rings - most of that was unloaded running. It is too late for honing now? Have I damaged the new rings by not honing?

My main concern is that although it's working great, I have an older style (power torque) piston in a newer style block. The only difference is the position of the ring stops, but I'm not sure if it will affect the rings if the ring ends are in the wrong position. Perhaps they may contact with the newer style transfer ports? The Gregory's manual recommends not to use the older style piston in the newer style block (I didn't read that until AFTER replacing with the wrong piston) but the newer style piston can be retro-fitted into any 160cc engine. I did pick up another power torque with the newer piston. Unfortunately, it was scored even worse than the original one.

I contemplated wet/dry sanding it smooth but thought it was too far gone. The pics don't accurately show the damage. After reading about your experiences, I think I'll try to clean up the original piston and see what happens.

If I install new rings, what difference in performance can I expect from an engine that has been honed...or hasn't?

Regarding warranty, I could probably handle a 3 month period as you suggested. Is your warranty a "verbal" contract or do you have a written warranty contract? I can only imagine all the other sorts of silly things people return mowers to you for. It must make life interesting...well at least sometimes perhaps?

All your advice is greatly appreciated Rodeobob. Thanks again.

a silly question . all the steel based victa's take the same catcher? like the newer ones with coloured panels and will they all fit both / steelflap and plastic . i keep finding them both but never seem to have catchers !! so i'm not sure
thanks dave

Yes that its Dave. Very common catcher.
From the late 90's the alloy base mowers use that catcher as well.

There 3 catchers, early two piece with one handle on the top. Later 'twin grip saftery catcher) Theres a few varations on this some had mesh in the top others a plastic grate. This one also came in a loverly red, bewdafull. Then the one with the pannels be they coloured or just all black. Ive got one of these here and its green. Pritty!

The mowers with the steel door on them, with the handle in the centre they will take all 3 styles, the centre part of the lower lip or back lip that hooks on the catcher is missing, the earlier catcher had a raised bit here. These will not fit on a mower with the later steel door that has its handle off set to the side or the plastic door, it has a full lip across the bottom of the door to hook onto the catcher. Hope that makes sense.



A hone is only $30 or so from super cheap. Get one with 4" stones, the big car size one. It wont drop in or catch in the transfer ports. Load it up with wd40, hone away, (cordless) drill at a slow-med speed. Wash it out with WD then some solvent, then hot soapy water and a clean light coloured lint free rag. When the rag wipes out clean its good to go.
Then dry it good.
Use 2 stroke oil to lube stuff up when assembling it.


Im not sure what i would do.
It needs the right piston.
Id probably use a new piston and rings, hone it. For the sake of $35 put new bearings in the crank. Depends what you want to ask for it and how much work you want to do (for nothing, yeah i realise that time is not everything, you can chalk it up to experience and getting familiar with Victas).


Then use little used new rings in something else. They should not be too damaged. If they do look a bit sad, bin em. As long as you had it all well lubed when you put them in id say you would bearly be able to see they were used.


I would say the warning on the piston choice is more for when the rings get real worn, the ends could bust off and start floating about in the motor. I doubt they would snag being an open trench and not a port like other motors. But you never know.


So far as performance, well it should have full compression. If its not quite right, it wont, on its way to wearing itself out it may wear itself in and be quite acceptable. They have to be pretty stuffed and sad before they start having compression related issues. Blowing smoke is the first sign, more so when cold or warming up.


I get stuff all mowers come back. I do make sure they are right, ive got to be happy with them, im sure i could find some learned critics that would not be happy with what i would call acceptable.


I had one guy bring back a mower that was pretty new and he paid good money for it, twice. First time the back cover had popped off the carb, second time it had crap in the main jet. He was still happy, polite and accomodating.
A few have come back with water.
One crapper ($80 Series 80 MKII steel base with a few rust pin holes) came back and would not run, i just gave the lady a $125 mower and told her to be on her way, she was happy. Never did sort that mower, its been out in the rain, i did suspect low compression.
Plenty i have unloaded out of the boot of peoples cars, turned the fuel tap off and ripped 10 or 20 times and they have fired up. They get a bit embarassed.
I do a price point $125 Victa. I havent had an issue yet, but if i do, i will just tell em to pick another one. Thats provided i cant fix the mower easily on the spot.

thanks for that , at least now i know what to look for . keep getting them with no catchers thanks again bob .

Hi rodeobob I noticed the lawn mower in the photo far left, the one with the green tank is exactly like what I got. All the stickers and decals are missing on mine,could you or any body tell me what model it is and year. Thanks