OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Engines Questions On Victa Two Stroke Engines Victa Corvette - No Spark

Hi All,

From what I have been reading I have a Victa Corvette WW-160-AS with a rebadged 70MKIV series engine.

As stated in the subject it has all of a sudden lost spark. Worked fine one afternoon, stored in shed for 2-3weeks got back out again to mow the lawn and now I have no spark..... I have changed the spark plug for a working one (took from another running mower), still no spark... I have tried arking the lead wire directly on the engine and still no spark... I have made sure that the kill switch wire is out of the carb and has been insulated to avoid a short and still nothing...

I am now suspecting that something has happened in underneath the flywheel, where the magnet interacts with the coil (not sure if that is in fact what happens???)..

Is there anything that I have mentioned which is a common symptom, and I am missing something simple? If there isnt more that I can do, besides devle into the mighty beast, how do I go about starting the repair process? I read that I will have to take the flywheel off with a "fly wheel puller"....

Any help would be great..

Cheers,
Matt

Matt, it sounds like an ignition issue alright, and from the tests you have done, it seems to me that the flywheel is going to need to come off.

you can try this: Once you get to the flywheel, remove the top nut, and take off the cup, then put the top nut on, to that the top surface of the nut is level with the top of the crank thread.

Now, get two long, large flat screwdrivers, and lever the flywheel up from the sides evenly, if it still wont move, then get an assistant to put pressure on the screwdrivers (not hard enough to damage the engine though) and give the nut/crank a few firm but not too hard blows with a wooden or rubber mallet.

if that does not work, soak in penetrene and repeat, if no luck then, move onto a puller.

Sounds like the points will need a clean up.

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the responses...

I got the fly wheel off!



What is the suggested maximum/minimum points gap? This might be the cause of the weak/no spark issue considering that the points gap is only ever 1mm at maximum, no matter how i adjust the points unit...

Matt

The correct points gap is 0.020", or 0.5mm. Adjust it accurately - it affects both spark intensity and ignition timing. Be sure the metal contacts are clean, smooth, and lie flat against each other. Remember, no dirt or oil on the surfaces.

Good work getting the flywheel off without the puller Matt....they sure can be stubborn sometimes....

As Grumpy mentioned, your max. gap should be 0.5mm, and the engine also needs to be checked for timing as you have adjusted the ignition.

I use the following method:

Take off the cylinder head, and rub a clean spot near the top of the bore (very clean), and get the piston up to the highest point it will go, then mark that point with a white board marker on the cleaned part of the bore, now slide it down (turning anti clockwise), and make another mark 3mm below the first (make sure you are being very accurate, i have a thick marker, so i always draw a clean line, aligning the bottom edge of the line with my target)

Now bring the piston back up (turn clockwise) to the lower mark (3mm before top dead centre)

At this point you need to adjust the points so that they are only just starting to open at this point (make sure the key is in so the cam is in the correct place)

Once the adjustments are made, check it over again to make sure it is beginning to open at 3mm BTDC, and when it hits fully opened, it is at 0.5mm.