I’ve been trying to work out the paint arrangements for my 18 Special. I’ve looked everywhere on the forum and called up paint shops but couldn’t land on a solution. I had a look and found some Hammerite Dark Green and Dulux High gloss deep brunswick green. Would anyone be able to give me an idea of how accurate they are to original? Also, Does the hammertone go on the base, cowl, and recoil and then the glossy brunswick on the handlebars? I’m a bit unclear also about the handlebar clamp. Attached are photos of the paint i plan to use. Cheers, Xav
The handle bars are Brunswick green or British racing green ,the original colour I would think was an industrial semi gloss Brunswick green but depending on what you buy just match the colour that suits as different suppliers will have different shades of green ,looks more like a deep Brunswick green in the image below.
Some people use Wattyl Killrust Gloss Enamel Deep Brunswick Green Aerosol .
The base, cowl and recoil ,tank , are Avocado Green hammer tone ,this colour is not something you can usually buy off a shelf it must be mixed at a shop , you can take a sample for them to match.
If you just want a close match for the base etc and don't want to get the colour made up then I would just buy a Scott Bonnar light green hammer tone. A few places sell this online.
Hi Max, Thanks heaps for the help. Do you think the hammertone i attached would be a better match than the scott bonnar? Also, I had seen all those tint codes for hammertone but every paint shop i called reckons it would stuff the hammertone finish.
Since i am going for closest match, Im thinking i should use dulux gunmetal hammer finish and then tint it with the codes on the link you added. Or ask them to tint it colour matched. Maybe ask for a little sample test pot.
About the wattyl kill rust stuff, The dulux seems close enough for my preference when it’s half the price and easier to source at bunnings.
Both Hammerite Dark Green and Dulux High gloss deep brunswick green look completely wrong to me ,
If the original green for handle bars is a semi gloss then a gloss is a closer match than the high gloss Dulux.
The Hammerite looks too dark ,getting a paint shop to mix the colour is the closest you will get to original.
PPG have a few green Hammered colours but not the same as original .
Paint sheen is a spectrum, ranging from flat (or matte) with no shine, to high-gloss, which is highly reflective and mirror-like. The order of sheen, from least to most glossy, is generally:
Flat/Matte
Eggshell
Satin
Semi-Gloss
Gloss
High-Gloss
Original paint In the 1950s , machinery was most often painted with conventional oil-based enamels, and more specifically, alkyd enamels.
There are a lot of dark green paints and hammertone paints out there, it's up to the individual how much they want to spend on getting the correct paint or if they can live with a slightly different shade of the colour they want.
There are so many variables in the final colour after the mower parts have been painted.
The Amount of Thinners
Using too much thinner can alter the colour and finish in a few ways:
Reduced Pigment Concentration: Paint is a finely balanced mixture of pigments (which provide the color), binders (which hold the pigments together and make the film durable), and solvents (like thinners, which make the paint liquid and evaporate as it dries). When you add more thinner than the manufacturer recommends, you're essentially diluting the pigment. The result is that the colour will appear lighter or less saturated than intended.
Reduced Hiding Power: Related to the above, a thinner film of paint has less "hiding power," meaning it's less effective at covering up the colour underneath.
Altered Sheen and Durability: The ratio of binder to solvent is what gives the paint its specific sheen (e.g., semi-gloss, gloss). Adding too much thinner can throw off this balance, potentially making a glossy paint appear less glossy or "flatter" than it should be. It can also compromise the integrity of the paint film, making it less durable and more prone to chipping or fading over time.
. The Number of Coats
The number of coats is crucial for achieving the true, intended colour.
Coverage and Opacity: Paint colors are designed to be fully opaque after a certain number of coats, typically two. The first coat provides a foundation, but it may still be somewhat translucent, allowing the colour of the undercoat or the original surface to show through. The second coat is what builds the colour to its full depth and saturation, eliminating any "holidays" (light spots) or show-through from below.
Colour Depth and Richness: Even when painting a new coat over a similar colour, a second coat almost always makes the final colour look richer, deeper, and more vibrant. The extra layer of pigment allows the colour to reach its full potential.
The Undercoat (Primer)
The color of the primer or undercoat is one of the most significant factors in the final appearance of the topcoat, especially with certain colours.
Light Colours over Dark Undercoats: If you're painting a light colour (like yellow) over a dark undercoat, it can take many, many coats to achieve the correct hue. The dark undercoat will "ghost" through the topcoat, making the final colour look muddy or muted. This is why paint stores will often recommend a specific tinted primer for dramatic colour changes, such as a gray primer for red paint or a white primer for bright yellow.
Dark Colours over Light Undercoats: This is less of an issue, but a white undercoat under a deep, rich colour might not allow the topcoat to achieve its full depth. A darker, tinted undercoat is often recommended to help the topcoat look more saturated and "true to colour" with fewer coats.
Metallics and Translucent Paints: This is where the undercoat is absolutely critical. For metallic or translucent "candy" colours (often used in car painting), the colour of the undercoat is part of the final colour. For example, a candy red topcoat over a silver undercoat will look very different from the same topcoat over a gold or black undercoat. The undercoat acts as a reflective surface that shines through the transparent topcoat, giving it depth and a unique colour-shifting effect.
What Else Can Change the Colour?
Beyond these factors, a few other things can influence the final colour appearance:
Lighting: The type of light a surface is viewed under (natural daylight, incandescent, LED, fluorescent) can dramatically change how a colour looks.
Surface Texture: As mentioned previously, a smoother surface will reflect light more cleanly and make a colour appear more vibrant than a textured surface, which scatters light.
Environmental Factors: The humidity and temperature during painting and drying can affect how the paint cures and its final sheen, which in turn can influence the perceived colour.
Thanks again Max, My new plan is to go with the wattyl kill rust and then use get some hammertone mixed up. Because i cannot find hamlet gunmetal anywhere, Im going to opt for the dulux gunmetal hammertone. I’ll go to a paint shop and ask them tint it with what you have given me for a small little sample pot. This cleared up heaps! Cheers, Xav
