Hi Max, I had pretty much given up on fixing these LM carbs but I just opened the box of primer caps I got from Amazon, I fitted 2 of them onto 24's with PT's I'm building, I used needles that I had put in my reject bin because they flooded and both of these motors fired up with not one problem from the carby. Is it a fluke? no idea but 2 out of 2 without any issue is something I have not been able to achieve previously so I am optomistic that the primer caps may have been my problem all along. I still ran the file through the seat and polished it with Autosol so fingers crossed I might be able to build some 2 strokes again. And another thing I found this morning is that I can start a PT on a 24 without the belt on and not a sign of kickback just using the standard Victa pulley filled with lead. That is 100% the answer. Now I am on the lookout for more lead and pulley This is my latest idea on the diaphragm caps because I was having problems with the idle screw udjuster nuts coming out of the caps .I had tried many ways of glueing them in but nothing really gave me confidence What I have done here is drill the centre of the cap out with a 13mm drill, fill the outside with wet clay and put fibreglass on the inside and then when that has set, dig the clay out and fill the outside with resin. Then I can drill and tap the cap to 6mm and just screw the adjuster screw in. See how they stand up under working conditions.
Goodness, is it a new source of aftermarket caps NormK? Would never have expected Amazon to be selling those. I think you'll need to see after trying five or six of them to know they are good. Interesting to find so called reject needles worked like a charm with them.
Ahh, if only victa had kept producing the thumblatch catcher series, they would be in better shape today!
Hi MF, Max put me onto them a while ago but I was so discouraged with all the problems I was having I hadn't got around to trying the Amazon ones. And they were cheap as well
I haven't got around to testing those caps yet Norm but I did have a good look at them and couldn't see any problems with them.
The last old cap I used after fitting a viton tipped fuel needle worked perfectly ,I left the fuel tap on for a month and it didn't flood and the full crank motor started first go every time.
A good test on the condition of a 2 stroke motor is to turn the fuel tap off when running and if the motors revs increase while the motor runs out of fuel there is a leak somewhere ,usually crank seals.
Yes I knew the kickback had to be a weight problem on the crankshaft as whenever I start a PT without a blade plate they kick back but with my victa pro 460 that has a heavier weight standard , when I remove the blade plate from the pro 460 it doesn't kick back.
Lead is a little expensive ,I guess you can get some from old car batteries but I wonder if concrete would be heavy enough or fill the void with ball bearings but the pulley would need a cap welded on to hold the ball bearings in.
The only problem is Fibreglass is NOT impervious to petrol.. It soaks along the miniscule cracks.. and is dissolved by petrol.
I've used fuel tank repair, Epoxy putty on plastic and that is good but costs a bit.
Norm I wonder if you had bad primer caps , it's not uncommon for manufacturers to make parts with Porosity leaks / defects but you would hope with quality control those parts are thrown out , sometimes the problem is when people take new parts out of the bins and sell them as working parts.
It would be good if you don't get any problems from the Amazon Caps.
There should be some auto drive 2 stroke motors here with a pulley ,I had a look on Saturday but didn't see them but I should be able to find them.
Hi Max, lots of good points there, I might put one of the caps in a jar of petrol and see how it goes. I could also wipe a smear of the tank repair epoxy over the fibreglass on the inside of the caps. Inside the cap and above the diaphragm it shouldn't get too much petrol in there unless the diaphragm isn't seated properly Another thought I just had was a smear of JB Weld on the inside to seal over the fibreglass. I will give that a try I think
Are you fellows using a metering lever/return spring such as Carbymaster supplies? This seems to work well for me...as long as I remember to fit all the bits in the diaphragm end of the Carby!
Hi Danny, No I'm not using the levers, I have a couple here but I have found I don't need them when I file the burr off the seat, the needle drops down without any problems
Hi Danny, I got a set of needle point diamond files, ground the end off one so it wouldn't drill out through the plastic at the bottom of the seat and I put the file in a battery drill and give the inner seat edge a quick file. We worked out some time ago that there must have been a machining burr on the edge of the seat that was catching on the nitrile tip and causing the needle to stick in the seat. Once we started removing the burr the sticking problem went away so we didn't need to use the little clip. After I file the burr I then give the seat a polish with Autosol on a cotton bud in the battery drill
