Does a visual check of the valves (and an u derstanfing of where TDC is) not represent the camshaft timing??
In other words, with the valve cover off and spark plug out using the trusty screw driver method and spinning the flywheel to find TDC any discrepancy with the camshaft timing should also be evident....??
Or is there something else in the camshaft timing that can't be determined without gaining access to it?
Just don't want to rip the engine off the chassis and get in to the guts without understanding the requirement first.
Edit: Sorry Norm, just saw your response on the previous page
The valves and timing appear to be functioning as they should with both valves closed at TDC
The valves and timing appear to be functioning as they should with both valves closed at TDC
On TDC the mechanical compression release has one valve slightly open on TDC,
Never adjust Valve clearances on TDC when a Compression release is used.
I would usually disconnect the coil kill switch wire just so you know it's not intermittently earthing out.
I like to swap the coil just to rule that out as having a problem under load but if you don't have a spare you wouldn't want to spend thirty dollars for nothing if it's not the problem.
The service manual would explain the adjustment better , All I could find was the following, Valve clearance spec is .004" , and yes at top dead center of *compression stroke* , plus about 5 degrees of additional flywheel movement (piston moves down about 1/4" after top center) - Or, set each valve one at a time by turning engine until one valve opens fully, set clearance on the other valve, until both valves are set.
If you don't have the manual but know the clearance is .004 " then I would set each valve one at a time by turning the engine until one valve opens fully then set the clearance on the other valve.
So after setting the cam timing again and reinstalling everything it eventually kicked over and idled very roughly for about 10 seconds.
I also set the valve clearances in the way Max suggested (with one valve open and the other fully closed.
It surged a few times then died and I'm sure it was running off aero starter rather than fuel from the carb.
Is it normal for the starter motor to cut out and then re-engage the flywheel when trying to turn the ignition on? It seemed as though it was making the engine cough when it was doing this....
Is it normal for the starter motor to cut out and then re-engage the flywheel when trying to turn the ignition on? It seemed as though it was making the engine cough when it was doing this....
The starter pinion is on a lead screw so when the starter spins the pinion gear engages with the flywheel but when the motor runs the flywheel is spinning quicker than the starter so this will disengage the starter pinion.
If the motor fires or runs while cranking then it is normal for the starter to disengage .
